New hub motor and battery

The controller has 4 shunts in parallel. Look at pictures.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31643
If you cut one, that would reduce amperage by 25%. Yours probably has 2 or 3. Cut 1 of 3 to reduce amperage by 33%. Cut 1 of 2 and you'll reduce amperage by 50%. To be honest, you should not have a problem with the battery packs you have as the controller rarely uses max amperage unless it's under extreme load. You could have something wired wrong too, causing excessive amp draw, like wrong phase wiring or bad battery connection causing excessive voltage drop..

do not tamper with your controller. stop.

if you have two of the 48V 10Ah batteries then you have more than enuff power for the controller.

charge up both batteries to the same voltage and then connect them in parallel. depending on what type of BMS you have and how they are wired up inside the individual batteries, then you may be able to charge them both at the same time from the same charger after you connect them in parallel.

but you have no pictures of your equipment so until you post up pictures of what you have we cannot help you.

WTF that's a pic of a controller you asked if YOU should buy. Or is this a pic of the controller you have ???

Sadly OP’s veered all over the place with much verbiage but little concrete information. Plus now introducing pictures of items that aren’t even related to the problem at hand.

BALANCE BATTERY PACKS. Charge them over and over again and again for days if need be but allow time for the BMS balancing circuitry to work. if the charger is “cycling” allow it to keep working.

When that’s completed then compare the pack voltages. If they’re close test each pack on your motor/controller system. If the cut-out problem persists, then either parallel both packs together to provide enough “peak power” capability or source heavier duty battery pack for this system. And btw, 52 vs 54 Volt is not close. 53.8 vs 54.1 Volt would be close enough in my book.

Of course, all this assumes correct motor/controller phase combinations in the 1st place? That’s actually never been firmly established yet. Does the motor turn smoothly and draw low current, wheel off ground?

A lower power controller would probably work with those battery packs - if OP can wire it correctly?

Cutting shunts? Drastic for someone who really doesn’t yet know shit from shinola. I suggest baby steps - correctly assemble original components together and qualify their function/failure before diving into other areas of qualification and/or modification.

55.5 volt or above is full on a 16s lifepo4 pack. Packs must match voltage to parallel. Or should be fully charged before first use. Long time on charger. Yes longer.
Do not run to lvc.

OK, fresh (kinda) start, I was able to sell my "challenge" motor on ebay, so now, i am in the market for a 500 watt motor kit for a rear wheel on a trike. The battery is a 48v 10ah LiFpo4. Any suggestions with links would be awesome...

there is no reason you cannot use the original motor.

but initially you said you had 2 of the 48V 10Ah batteries so now you have only the one 48V battery?

your 20A controller should work on it but if you demand 2C of power from the lifepo4 pack then it will be taxed to provide the full power after the battery is discharged by about 50%. so you are better off replacing or doubling the battery rather than finding a different motor. in terms of more costs.

I still have 2 batteries, but want to keep one aside for the trike I am building for my wife. so, the 500 watt motor seemed best for both trikes.
Also, I agree wit hother forums about geared vs non geared hubs an geared seems best if ya run outta juice and have to pedal it home...

Hard to recommend anything without knowing what country you are in. Change your location from Earth to the country you reside in.
The motor you get doesn't matter. Only the controller amp draw does. With the proper controller you could use any size motor. Your pack is rated for 20A continuous and 35A burst. I wouldn't go over a 30A max controller.

wesnewell said:

Hard to recommend anything without knowing what country you are in. Change your location from Earth to the country you reside in.
The motor you get doesn't matter. Only the controller amp draw does. With the proper controller you could use any size motor. Your pack is rated for 20A continuous and 35A burst. I wouldn't go over a 30A max controller.

Click to expand...

I have had the batteries charging for a fair amount of time and they both are showing right at 54.1v, charge longer?

Sorry bout that, currently in Cali. getting out of here in Aug to go to Wash. state...

something is wrong. your battery should charge to 57.6V+ at least. what is the output voltage of the charger?

again, do not use this battery at more than 20A beyond about 50% SOC or it will go dead fast. it is just too small.

They're back on the charger and last read was 56.8v

cycling stopped @ 57.4 v.