Infineon programming cable question (non Prolific chipset)

Thanks guys,

I just found the same thing before I read your posts.
The two pads near the USB connector need bridging.
I did that and all is working.

Thanks Eddie

Dumb question: If one already has a serial port on the PC, is a USB-TTL adapter needed, or can the TTL programming port on the controller just be hooked up directly to that?

If not, why not?

amberwolf said:

Dumb question: If one already has a serial port on the PC, is a USB-TTL adapter needed, or can the TTL programming port on the controller just be hooked up directly to that?

If not, why not?

Click to expand...

Short answer: no you cannot

long answer: the serial port on your computer uses the rs232 protocol which has signals from -12V to +12V, with a '1' bit being 3-12V, and '0' being -3 to -12V. Your ttl serial port on the infineon micro uses 0-5v signals, with a '0' being ~+5V and '1' being ~0V.

So, you could user your serial port but you would have to invert and clamp the signals to 0-5VDC. Honestly, it is probably simpler/safer to buy a usb to serial converter.

-Matt

matt_in_mtl said:

So, you could user your serial port but you would have to invert and clamp the signals to 0-5VDC. Honestly, it is probably simpler/safer to buy a usb to serial converter.

Click to expand...

I could just as easily take a MAX232 off a dead motherboard or IO card, and wire it up to reconvert the signals to TTL levels. That wouldn't cost me anything, unlike the USB-TTL adapter. Might also have to invert the signals to/from the 232/controller port, but that is also trivial.


Doesn't matter as I don't actually need one of these yet, but eventually I will, and planning a bit ahead can't hurt much.

amberwolf said:

matt_in_mtl said:

So, you could user your serial port but you would have to invert and clamp the signals to 0-5VDC. Honestly, it is probably simpler/safer to buy a usb to serial converter.

Click to expand...

I could just as easily take a MAX232 off a dead motherboard or IO card, and wire it up to reconvert the signals to TTL levels. That wouldn't cost me anything, unlike the USB-TTL adapter. Might also have to invert the signals to/from the 232/controller port, but that is also trivial.


Doesn't matter as I don't actually need one of these yet, but eventually I will, and planning a bit ahead can't hurt much.

Click to expand...

I bought a $3 (including shipping) USB converter from ebay, and it had a Prolific chipset, and it worked fine.


Some battles aren't worth fighting.

Mark_A_W said:

I bought a $3 (including shipping) USB converter from ebay, and it had a Prolific chipset, and it worked fine.

Some battles aren't worth fighting.

Click to expand...

No, but they can still be fun to try.

Plus that $3 can buy 1/8 of a bag of dog food (about 2.5 day's worth for my gang) or enough meat for a few meals. But even if I weren't in the budget constraints I'm in now, I'd probably still try to build it instead of buy it just for the challenge.

Ah, apparently the max232 *is* the solution for what I want; it's what's inside this PCLink:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=126861#p126861

This thread is old but i hope somebody will read my post and tries to help me
I got my LYEN controller some days ago and i want to program it. My controller has the USB-Connector and i made an USB-TTL-Adapter by myself, the only problem is, that i have only one red cable but instead of the second red, there is a yellow one.
When i compare this picture

Lyen said:

Hello Silver! This is the way to wire the USB-TTL adapter. I hope it helps.

Click to expand...

to my controller, the yellow one should be at the other end, shouldn't it?
My controller:



the yellow cable is soldered to the "SLK" pin instead of "RESET"...is that correct? Do i have to resolder the yellow one to the "RESET" Pin?

Thank you.

your board is a v3 and I think the picture above is a v2

this thread may help http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27927&start=400

I cooked my USB cable by accidentally plugging it into a CAV3 instead of an Infineon (the CAV3 had the same plug on it). It got so hot that it melted the USB portion.