BAC-281 wiring help!

bremer377111

1 µW
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Jun 7, 2009
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Hello everyone,
I need help getting this e-bike going. I recently recieved a non working Eco E-Ton electric bike, which I have found little to no information on.(I believe there is only one thread even mentioning it here.) My problem is wiring up a Golden Motor BAC-281 36V controllerhttp://www.goldenmotor.com/frame-controllers.htm. I have already done some troubleshooting thanks to this forum. Throttle seems to work fine(varying voltage with throttle twist). Hall sensors seem to all work(0-5v with wheel movement) My problem is when I attach the three larger wires to the controller(in different orders) and power the controller up with 24v, twisting the throttle does nothing, even after getting back wheel spinning fast. I have tried many different wiring schemes on these three. View attachment CIMG3883.bmp

There are wires coming from the hub, They are:
-Three larger wires are red, black, and white.(I do not know in what order to connect them to controller) The controller wires are yellow, blue, and green.
-five smaller hall sensor wires, red and black(I have determined these to be the 5v and ground)
and yellow, green and brown(actual sensor wires, checked to be working)
and two extra wires bundled with the hall harness.(dont know what they are for)


View attachment CIMG3882.bmp

My questions are:
-This is a 36v controller, and i am running 24v. The website says this controller supports this, is this ok?
-Is there a way to determine which order to connect the three larger wires from the motor(red,black,white) to the controller(yellow,blue,green)? If I can get those right the controller should just run in the sensorless mode right?(after pedal start)
-The hall sensors also do not have standard wire coloring how do I determine which order to wire?
-The brake sensors and wires are gone, do I short the controller brake socket or leave it open?

I have spent many hours working and researching how to get this bike to work, with absouloutly no progress! I am very thankful for any tips or help you may have. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Best Regards,
Matt
 
The controller may have a low voltage cutoff that is set for 36v, so 24v may not be enough to make it go. There may be a way to modify the cutoff voltage inside the controller. Even if your motor wiring is incorrect, you should see something happen when you hit the throttle.

As far as the motor wiring, it can be confusing at best. See: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484
 
Thank you Fechter for the link, thats what I needed.
I assumed that the controller would run on 24v out of the box, the website says "You can force it to work with lower voltages (e.g 48V to 36V, 36V to 24V)" Maybe like you said it requires modification.
I will just get another battery to make 36v.

I have no brake sensors. Do I short the brake wires coming off the controller, or leave them alone?
BTW: The controller came from China in only 3 days.(very impressed)
 
shorting the brake wires will cut the motor. just leave them alone.

in some places functioning e-brakes are a legal requirement. some people leave them off regardless.

rick
 
OK I believe I have the phase wires correctly wired(sensorless mode works). Still having trouble getting hall wires correct. Whenever I power up the controller I get two beeps, which indicate Hall failure. I have tested the Hall sensors with an external 5v power supply, and they all worked. One thing I noticed is the voltage from the controller to Hall sensors is only 4.4v, is that ok? If not what could be causing this. Secondly, would the controller report Hall failure just from the three Hall wires order being mixed up?(I know ground and 5v) It would be nice to get the Hall sensors working, but at least I have sensorless mode working.
 
4.4v should be OK.
There may be a 60/120 degree hall timing selector somewhere. If the motor doesn't match the controller, it will give a hall error. Most motors are 120 degree.
 
Hello, If the alarm beeps at starting, you have to program your controller with its USB cable to RS-232 to config it with to 24V, probably it came configured with 36V, and the controller cuts power to protect the battery.

Oh! I have been reading a lot from your forums (sometimes helpful, other times not ;) , and this is my first post. Cheers!
 
+1 to Rick. He helped me a lot in my early ebike days. What happened to him? I thought I saw a recent post by him.
otherDoc
 
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