Couldn't sleep, and Hachi and Nana are both all excited about something I can't figure out, so while I was up to keep an eye on them running in and out, I started to go thru the boxes from BikeFanatic. I'd actually sorted the stuff into two boxes a few days back (actually maybe it's been a couple weeks, I'm just not sure).
First thing I looked thru was a box with some RC charging stuff, heatshrink, connectors, caps, a throttle and a couple of controllers, and a Ping charger, as well as a damaged CA and Turnigy Watt meter.
The first controller is a Crystalyte 72V sensorless 12FET, which has a note that it had seemed to cause shuddering/cogging and then poppped, and probably didn't work. I powered it on via the CA on CrazyBike2, and noted no unusual current draw, just a minimal amount indicating it was probably not a dead short and the lowvoltage stuff probably was working.
I then hooked it to the 9C clone from Ohzee, and was able to easily spin the motor by hand, with power on or off on the controller. So it probably doesnt' ahve any shorted FETs. I measured the FETs with a meter (the one with the flaky display I fixed, from Oatnet, as it was handy), and found no problems.
So I pulled the throttle out of the box, and checked the label on the controller, hooked it up to the proper connector as marked (4-pin female), and tried it out--no go, no result at all. No change in current thru the CA, either.
I started to measure the throttle input at the PCB, and found the throttle wires werent' even connected properly to the PCB in the first place.
The only things hooked to the SP pin were a wire from the ebrake connector (3 pin female), and a wire from the cruise control connecor (5-pin male with only 4 pins in it). The throttle connector does not have but two wires hooked up at all, one of them (white) going to the main ground pad where the battery comes in, and one (orange) going to a 5V pad.
Since I wanted to test it, I just cut the cruise connector off and wired into those wires temporarily for the throttle connector, afer cutting the two wires that were hooked up out of it.
This worked fine, and the controller appears to work normally now. I presume that BikeFanatic was using it with a cruse control or PAS (as it does have that connector, too), or with some other throttle that only uses 3 pins and hooked to what is labelled as the ebrake connector.
I haven't tested it under any great load, only using a glove to slow the motor's rim some, up to about 250W on the CA, for a few seconds at a time (glove gets hot).
So, now I know that Ohzee's motor works now, and that this controller should work ok, perhaps I'll install them both on CrazyBike2 and stick my modified front motor back on the front fork, and try out 2-wheel drive.
Probalby not; bike is heavy enough as it is, and I would have to make clamping torque arms or dropouts for the front fork.... But tempting.
I took a poke around the DP CA, which doesn't power on when hooked up t the Crystalyte's CA connector. It does get battery voltage at the proper input pins, but no voltage at two of teh main transistor pins, with 9.9V at the other pin via a resistor/zener. There is power at one side of the input diode, not at the other, so I suspect the diode is bad. SMT stuff so I can barely see it much less work on it at the moment.
But I do now have some glasses to see with: A friend changed prescriptions, and gave me his old bifocals to use for the frame (whcih fit my lenses, more or less). As it turns out, I can use the lower lenses to see very clearly close up on PCB stuff. Not sure the top part is right for my eyes, as some things seem odd, but it might just be because I've had my current prescription for more than a decade, I think, and it definitely needs updating, if I had money for that. At least I can use these for electronics work, if nothing else. I will try them for regular walkign/riding a littel bit, and "see" if they work for me.
I haven't looked at the TWM yet, other than to verify it doesn't power on (is probably the regulator chip).
Took a peek at the RC chargers, a pair of Turnigy Accucel 6 units, each of a slightly different version. One of them has half the screen, on the right, not working. Since the other does work, in theory I can still set the bad one up by using both menus and buttons identically, but right now both are set to 6s max out which is what I would use anyway for most stuff.
There are also some extra plugs including clips to hook them up to SLA for input power.
For now, I will probably begin using the still-ok unit as a 3s charger for my lighting pack, so I don't have to take it off the bike and to the Sorenson in the utility room.
The heatshrink should be very useful, as it is more of the small stuff that I didnt' have any mroe of, but needed. There are also zip ties, includign stainless steel ones.
Some 100V 1000uf "HUG" caps, should be useful for fixing or upgrading controllers (along with the ones Bigmoose sent, and some others on a dead-parts-scavenged controller Methods sent me some time back in a box of stuff). Some resistors, too.
A very useful bag includes some new and used Anderson PP45s as well as various HK bullets, new and used. Was wanting to use PP45s for hall connectors recently, but didn't have neough for both motors and controllers, so this will let me do this, which will fix the problems I've had repeatedly with JST hall connectors.
There was also a little voltage checker for up to 6s; seems to work ok, and shoudl be useful. I can carry it in a toolbag for balance checking packs on the roadside, if I run into pakc problems for any reason.
The ohter box...taht one has a real goodie: A complete Kepler drive! It needs some work, some reassembly, but I will try to find time to get it going and put it on Nishik-E until I get the TongXin middrive designed and built.
Haven't really looked at ti much yet so I don't have too much to say, but once I read up on the instructions and stuff that BikeFanatic sent, I will make some more posts over on the Nishik-E thread.
There were also a coupld of 26" innertubes, one of which is already on CB2, and a shock pump, whcih works way better on the Manitou airshock that's on the Fusin Test Bike than any of hte othe rpumsps or compressors I have tried so far.