Improved Weatherproofing Idea

[Affliction]

On the other
hand, if water did not get in where the wires come out, I doubt it will get in the little hole (like you
said Affliction). Still I'll probably tap the hole an put in a bolt. ADD sucks eh?

Do as you wish.........
You'll just have to make a vastly larger hole to be able to tap a pipe plug into it.
The hole the size of a can straw is how big?............
I like the ADD crack... got a joke for ya....
What is black and blue and doesn't like sex? A: zuckster in my basement

[zukster]

What is black and blue and doesn't like sex? A: zuckster in my basement

You are truly evil Assfliction

You can get taps the size of a little straw. I'm going to go a bit larger (about 1/8) just so the bolt will
be a bit larger and less likely to break. The freewheel is on one side but I don't have disk brakes, so that's
the side where it will will go.

[grindz145]

A grease fitting would be sweet too, just pump it up with some new stuff once and a while and clean up the overflow...

[Affliction]

A grease fitting would be sweet too, just pump it up with some new stuff once and a while and clean up the overflow...

Ya , Ya do that allready; not really ideal for a hub motor tho. I grease my forks and crank and swingarm pivot with grease fittings.

[johnrobholmes]

How about Corrosion X? It is a great product for motors.

[Affliction]

How about Corrosion X? It is a great product for motors.

Is that like Boeshield?
I'm sticking my guns to this!
Wurth Film is a nieche product not sold to the general public. You have to be a business to purchase it.
Wierd material saftey laws and all.......
All this other corrosion shit dries out ;ACF50, Boeshield and the like and they don't lubricate or continue to penetrate the metal.
Is corrosion X good chain lube?

[johnrobholmes]

Yep, look it up. You can soak a motor in it, then run the motor underwater for quite a while before needing to reapply.

[gestalt]

Back to the conformal coating idea that was espoused earlier, upon taking apart my GM hpm5000b I noticed that all the wiring and coils are conformal coated. The motor is advertised as water proof and I think it would be more acurate to say that it's water resistant. I could see moisture could getting in through the outer bearings and the joint between the outer casing and the rear housing. For the joint I was thinking of using some sturdy silicone sealing glue. That corrosion X sounds like a great extra measure of protection though for the inside, it's officially on my grocery list.

[Affliction]

Use CorrosionX to eliminate corrosion and protect all metal surfaces of your boat, trailer and dockside equipment. Especially recommended for brightwork (keeps stainless from pimpling), hatches, powerheads, antenna bases, hinges and latches.

CorrosionX is also the best lubricant you can use for maritime applications. It does not attract dust, outperforms lubricants fortified with Teflon* (PTFE), and due to it's unique polar bonding technology, CorrosionX repels water, and doesn't dissipate quickly or wash off in harsh saltwater environments. Use CorrosionX on throttle cables, steering mechanisms, seat swivels, locks, travelers, winches, pulleys, furling systems, tracks and on any other gear that would benefit from lubrication.

Due to its extraordinary dielectric properties, CorrosionX should be applied to all battery terminals, terminal strips, ignition switches, electrical connectors, circuit breakers, fuse holders, light switches, light sockets, electrical plugs, blower motors and fans to protect them from corrosion, extend their life and keep them working reliably. Although CorrosionX is inherently nonflammable, the environmentally-friendly propellant used in our aerosol cans is flammable. Please use caution when applying to electrical equipment. Before applying, make sure there is no current running though the system and that electrical motors are disconnected before applying.

I was convinced before I read this...

It does not attract dust

.... This is the same crap as ACF50!
If it doesn't remain fluid and tacky then it stops increasing the protection after application.

[lifepo4ever]

the drill hole with some spray seem to be the best choice , but my new motor is 2807 9c and they already have a seal but is it enought
to protect the interior of the motor or should I protect it with spray can?

[lifepo4ever]

for the chain and cable of my bike I use Sewing Machine lube I only apply 2 time in summer and I use it everyday I never heard a sound from the chain but for the winter I don't know if is really efficient

[zukster]

I got the ACF-50. I'll try it in the motor and on the chain and post
back in a month or two with the findings.

I tapped a hole in the motor for maintenance like I was talking
about. Partly because I just wanted to get it back together and I
had not received the ACF-50 yet.

I used a standard M5 0.8 thread pitch tap, the same as what is
used for water bottle mount holes that take standard bike style
Allen key bolts.

Oh my god - you can almost see China through that hole



Note that the hole is placed where there is a gap between the
case and the gears so I can get the ACF-50 in.



I had this bolt available from another Bafang I previously toasted.
It happened to be an M5 0.8 and is very short so it will not poke
through on the inside too much.



I ended up using the smallest size from these assorted tap washers.




Now to lube it up up.

[lifepo4ever]

I don't say its a bad idea but I can't do that because at 65kph my wheel will shake a bit I think

can someone can tell me if my 9c is enougth protected by the seal Because I will run my ebike all winter here in the snow

[zukster]

Have you ever lifted you wheel up and let it rip? There's a bit of wobble in all my wheels with hubs laced in. This
is pretty normal. The little plug is not going to effect anything. I might have done it a bit more toward the center
if I was using a disk brake. Where I have it just just clears where a disk rotor would go. Something to consider
if doing this to any hub motor.

(1) That where you place the hole has a space behind it so the spray can get in.
(2) That there are no gears that can contact the end of the screw if it pokes in a bit - or just grind it down
so its flush on the inside when tight.
(3) That there is clearance for a rotor and anything else nearby.

Have you ever opened up your 9c? I think its better than some:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11758#p178612

I might just leave it be myself, then check it in six months or so.

Since I opened mine up, I put a lot of grease around the seals where the axles exit the hub. That will give it
a bit more water resistance.

[grindz145]

Nice Job zuckster! I look forward to seeing the results. The salt trucks are in full force...

[zukster]

No salt here yet. It hasn't even snowed! Its below zero though. That'll definitely generate some cooling
condensation inside the hub that should be protected.

[lifepo4ever]

thank you for the info I will only put some polyurethane at the end of the shaft where the wire comes off so I think I will have enougth protection . if not the motor will blown and go to the trash this spring . for me this is a real test for winter condition

[broloch]

I am using a Crystalyte motor which is notorious for rusting and corrosion.

Would it be enough to open up the motor and coat the inside with this: (was mentioned previously in this thread)

I would not "seal" the motor. Is there anything else that is important to have done? I read that putting a hole is no good unless it can be plugged (for maintenance).
Is there anything else to help prevent severe damage to the Crystalyte hub motor?

Fluid Film Rust and Corrosion Prevention
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4 ... ention.jsp

[grindz145]

I am using a Crystalyte motor which is notorious for rusting and corrosion.

Would it be enough to open up the motor and coat the inside with this: (was mentioned previously in this thread)

I would not "seal" the motor. Is there anything else that is important to have done? I read that putting a hole is no good unless it can be plugged (for maintenance).
Is there anything else to help prevent severe damage to the Crystalyte hub motor?

Fluid Film Rust and Corrosion Prevention
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4 ... ention.jsp

Judging from the rest of the posts, I'd say It's worth a shot. I would personally go with ACF-50 or a wurth film first, judging from the rest of the posts. I am going to go with the ACF-50 likely myself and report my findings here.

-just one opinion with no experimental data to back it up

[broloch]

Yeah. I want to still be able to ride through some of the winter. I wouldn't ride on days of active snowing, or slushy conditions. Otherwise, I would use the ebike and make use of it. I would hate to make it go to waste because of a bit of temperature drop. However, it would suck a lot more if I used the ebike during the winter, and had it rusted out and corroded and have the motor NOT work in the spring/summer following.

[Affliction]

Yeah. I want to still be able to ride through some of the winter. I wouldn't ride on days of active snowing, or slushy conditions. Otherwise, I would use the ebike and make use of it. I would hate to make it go to waste because of a bit of temperature drop. However, it would suck a lot more if I used the ebike during the winter, and had it rusted out and corroded and have the motor NOT work in the spring/summer following.

I really don't like consumer products available at department stores; it's all pretty crappy shit. Mind you they will protect better than nothing on a chrystalite hub. I have 2 408's front and rear. The water will get in no matter what and a small hole on one side is insignificant compared to how much gets by the axle bearings. If you leave your bike outdoors in the rain, it drips down the forks and onto the axle and then into your motor; A hole on the side cover means absolutely nothing . it is nowhere near the flowpath of water.
Wurth film has been proven to stop hall sensor problems in actual testing!
There is a couple E-bike retailers who are testing this stuff right now!
All this stuff, Boeshield, ACF-50,Corrosion-X turns to a wax after application. Wurth Film remains fluid.
Hub motors are things in motion so do you want a solid wax coating or something that will flow?

[johnrobholmes]

I would prefer a waxy film so that it didn't get slung around and leak out. An extra coating on my vital parts.

[broloch]

So where can we get this wurth stuff? I remember reading back that someone tried to get it, but it was not to be sold to the public.

How did you guys get your hands on it?

[Julez]

Hi!

I recently opened my push trailer motor, which I use since march. It surely has seen some heavy rain and was parked in the rain for days.
It was dry as a bone inside. Maybe I am onto something with the butylcaoutchouc I use for sealing the flanges. Anyhow, the penetrating oil I used to prevent corrosion right at the beginning had pretty much evaporated. I now wanted to use the special Mike Sander anti-corrosion grease. I heated the stator by running 20A continous throu 2 of the cables for quite some time. The grease melted on teh motor, and soaked all the way through. I let it drip off, and when the motor was cool again, I reassembled and resealed everything. I think everything will work fine with this grease. If it melts again due to high operating temperature, I guess it will drop into the rotor, and will be transported upwars again. We will see.
I think the neatest solution would be to apply epoxy resin used for fiberglass laminatig in the same way as my grease. If the stator is soaked and covered by this really durable stuff, I don't see how anything could ever rust. I have some resin for my model planes, which can be worked with for 2h. This should be good.
Cheers,

Julez

[grindz145]

I would prefer a waxy film so that it didn't get slung around and leak out. An extra coating on my vital parts.

This definitely seems to be the tradeoff here. Can you use both? ACF-50 and then a nice juicy topping of Wurth film?