Improved Weatherproofing Idea

[zukster]

[quote="lifepo4ever"]hey guy I found this product for 11$ from my canadian tire store http://www.corrosionfree.com/automotive.htm I will test it for you this week...[/quote="lifepo4ever"]

I like the price and availability in Canada of that one. You'll probably have to post back after winter
with the long term results. Then we'll have some real world tests to consider. The only one that's
really proved itself on a hub motor over a winter is the Wurth film. Maybe it will be more consumer
available after those ebike stores have used it for a while.

[lifepo4ever]

have been tested for 3 days now and I ride in the slush and snow and the chain still have lube I will post a video of my daily drive also
here the weather is very extreme , blizzard,wet snow , sometime I ride in 5 inch of snow for + 30mph wind I want to proof to people Ebike is
good weather resistant when you know what to do to protect for bike .

[zukster]

have been tested for 3 days now and I ride in the slush and snow and the chain still have lube I will post a video of my daily drive also
here the weather is very extreme , blizzard,wet snow , sometime I ride in 5 inch of snow for + 30mph wind I want to proof to people Ebike is
good weather resistant when you know what to do to protect for bike .

Wow - where do you live. Iceland?

[lifepo4ever]

Québec , canada

[lifepo4ever]

look my video here there some useful tips: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSf2McRAETc


I made this video today not 2008 I have to erase that from the camera good one for 20$

[lifepo4ever]

hey guy I found this product for 11$ from my canadian tire store http://www.corrosionfree.com/automotive.htm I will test it for you this week because i ride my new ebike on snow I will also drill a hole to my side cover and give him a good shoot

the product resist to 260 Degree no leaking no solvent ,its a gel like and also Di-electric to 40,000 volts

they said to soak the metal in so the stuff stay on the surface for 18 month , its to good to be true you can even use like a lubricant

so stay tuned i will reply in 1 week or two

here are the spec: * Formula 3000 with CSC 850
* Rust & Corrosion Fighting Lubricant DripFREE Lubricant Gel
* Especially formulated for coastal and salt water environments


USES

Electrical
Electric motors, starters, generators, alternators, switches, terminals, rheostats, circuit panels, ignition systems, light sockets and any electrical point of contact.

Mechanical
Pre-assembled metal parts, winches, pulleys, bearings, shafts, bushings, hinges, cables, aluminum wheels, steel rims steel or aluminum castings and anything that moves.

Appearance / Detailing
Doors, trunk lids, engine hoods, lapped seams and joints, nuts, bolts, chrome and aluminum accessories, and basically anything requiring protection from the elements.

BENEFITS


* Terminates rust and corrosion in all metals
* Clean, clear, DRIPFREE - no sticky residue
* Dissolves and neutralizes existing rust and corrosion
* Penetrates the start of new corrosion
* Protects paint from blistering at edge of lapped seams
* Stops electrolysis between dissimilar metals
* Protects UnderBody including brake and fuel lines
* Penetrates deeply and lubricates
* Repels salt water and moisture
* Will not wash off with water
* Heavy Duty gel formula for extended protection

METHOD OF APPLICATION


* Formulated to be applied under high pressure to hidden areas using the CorFREE applicating system, or brushed / wiped on to exposed panels
* Can be applied to wet areas
* Apply every 18 months or annually as required

SPECIFICATIONS


* A proprietary blend of lubricants, moisture displacers, corrosion neutralizers and inhibitors
* Solvent-free - Odor-free - Non Toxic - Non Conductive - Di-electric 40,000 volts
* Non Flammable as a liquid - Low Fire Hazard - High Flashpoint
* Not a controlled substance - not subject to TCSA - not controlled by WHMIS
* Specific Gravity .86 - Boiling Point 260 C - Negligible solubility in water
* Non Carcinogenic - Light Green Color

and so far so good the stuff is still inside my motor and made around 2500km since last winter i open it to because to fix a hall sensor and also i prepare my bike for the winter

the thing also impress me after putting daily 80amp and 100 volt in the winding , inside the motor is like new and i think the stuff reduce also the heat generated by the current on my hard accelaration i never had more than 110 celsius doctorbass say that 130 is the limit of this motor so when i do hard i reduce power after
also i have some cooling with my drilled hole but only efficient when i stop the bike its cool faster . so i will clean inside my motor tomorow and buy some more rust cure 3000

[zukster]

I ran my geared Bafang Hub motor over last winter with my tapped and sealed hole, with ACF-50 spayed
in with a straw. Its held out fine. The ACF-50 is fairly thin however and tends to leek out the axle if the bike
is tipped over a bit, so I've had to apply it every month or two.

I opened up my Son's Bafang after a winter of Vancouver daily use of to school an back. This one was
not treated at all. I was amazed to find it still new looking inside, so I just re-greased it.

Maybe the water is just not getting in there because of the way the bike was set up. In other words,
rather than dripping down and into the axle shaft, it must drip off the bike instead. The bike was kept
covered outside all winter, but not inside.

So now I'm suspecting that the freezing weather out East, combined with freeze thaw cycles, and the
resulting condensation inside the motor - is likely the worst enemy for corrosion setting in.

[lifepo4ever]

the rust cure stay and there no leak its like a gel and my motor is drillerd at 16 place and the stuff stay inside its really stick to the metal

[zukster]

Finally after 3 years of use, my son stripped the nylon gears in his rear drive Bafang SWXH 26
Inch wheel model being run by Ecrazyman/keywin 350w/20a Infineon controller and 60V to it.

I had already ordered some metal gears from keywin a couple of years ago (I don't know if keywin
is around anymore), so I just had to install them. On of the nylon gears had actually cracked and
jammed the motor. Not wanting to take anymore chances, I used 3 metal gears.

Its not too loud when the motor has been treated with ACF 50 or fluid film inside to protect it.

The insides of the motor are in good shape, so the above treatment worked and
did its job of protecting the motor though a couple of winters.

[rocwandrer]

This seems to be the best thread on corrosion proofing that I can find here, but no definitive conclusions.

I found a semi-independent test of ferrous metal corrosion protection in fresh and salt water environments:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfishing-charters-forum/123560-test-corrosion-inhibitor-sprays.html#b

I found a couple on electric motors specifically, but then reading through them, found them faulty to the point of being invalid.

Any of you folks who tried something like Fluid Film a long time ago care to report back on its efficacy in salted road environments?

Fluid film carries (among others) a massively appealing claim for chain applications:

Chains
FLUID FILM penetrates to the inside of the chain, preventing wear and providing extended lubrication. Displacing any trapped water, it leaves a barrier of protection with sufficient body to resist fly off and water wash off. In dusty environments, FLUID FILM resists dirt buildup due to its slick, non-tacky consistency. FLUID FILM holds up under a wide degree of temperatures, resists high moisture and, because it won't freeze, prevents chain jam ups due to water frozen in chain links. FLUID FILM was documented as having extended locomotive drive chains in salt harvesting machinery by up to 300%.

But I'm interested in electric motor applications. Wasn't there one that coated an automotive alternator, and then submerged it in ocean water and ran it for a year without failure. I think the same one took an old TV, coated the entire inside of the thing, and then turned it on immersed in salt water without immediate failure. Often demos for snake oil do things people wouldn't think would work, to prove the snake oil product is amazing, but they are things you can actually do without the snake oil. Slick-50 has no redeeming qualities whatsoever, but their "drain the oil and then add sand to the crankcase" demo is super compelling. However, if you control the size of the sand particles, and use the right engine, the engine will survive for a while like that, just like they show, without any special product.

[rocwandrer]

Anybody try this stuff?

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=02031&S=Y

[zukster]

I've been using Fluid Film primarily for the last couple of years. Its thicker and stays in the motor longer than the ACF-50 which leaks out the axle if the bike is tipped.

Also, as a side note, it seems that the Cute 100 motors are sealed up better than my Bafang SWXH motors which leak the fluid film out the axles more if you put a lot in. I don't think the Cute 100s have leaked at all yet.

I might yet try the Formula 3000 which may be even more gel like and stay in even better. However, the Fluid Film has been working fine, is wax based, has no solvents, will not was off with water, and is easy to clean off with a mild solvent if you do want to open up a motor and work on it, so why change from it if it works. The only other test I can not give extensive feedback on is prolonged below zero Celsius use. That's when you can get the problem of the motor heating up when in use, but then when it cools down, you can get condensation water being sucked into the motor. I suspect it will be fine though. I've had a few below zero rides so far, but just not like a week of below zero use to comment on. Maybe some else can comment here if they have some info on this?

Also, Justin from ebikes.ca pointed out this other interesting product that they use on motors with drilled sides for better cooling. The idea is that you coat the motors insides and it gives it a wax type protective coating, so if water splashes in it just runs off the wax and does not hurt the motors internals. See

http://ebikes.ca

And scroll down and look for Boeshield T9. If I had a direct drive motor I would drill the sides and use this.

I believe the Fluid Film is a better option for a geared hub motor. Its best to not drill holes in it. Road grit could wreak the gears.