Crimper for pins on throttles, hall sensor connectors

I've been using needle nose pliers for this, but it's tedious. I want to get a crimper for the small pins used in many of the small black plastic connectors for throttles and hall sensors. I think these might be call D-sub pin connectors, but not sure. Does anyone have a recommendation? I see that radio shack has one, but I'm not sure if these are really called "D-sub pins" or something else.

Ditto on your request, I have been using your method and yes, it is tedious, also the wires sometimes pull out when disassembling, so I have been soldering as well. A good crimper would make this much easier.
Barrie

All the gear I've lately purchased from ebikes.ca use the JST SM series connectors for the throttle, CA and hall sensors.
After doing several of them with pliers I bought a Taiwanese crimper tool for $37.00.

just look for what is called a D-Sub Open Barrel Crimp Tool. lots of them on eBay. most are around $20US.

it is not exactly what is required, but it is close enough to make good crimps.

rick

Googled and found this one for $20. It specifically says that it is for Sub-D connectors of very small wire size: AWG 18-22,24-30

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556092698.html?productid=840556092698

Ambrose

Zoot Katz said:

All the gear I've lately purchased from ebikes.ca use the JST SM series connectors for the throttle, CA and hall sensors.
After doing several of them with pliers I bought a Taiwanese crimper tool for $37.00.

Click to expand...

Zoot, this is where mine come from as well. I just didn't know what they were called. Can you point me to what you bought and if you like it?

DervAtl said:

Zoot Katz said:

All the gear I've lately purchased from ebikes.ca use the JST SM series connectors for the throttle, CA and hall sensors.
After doing several of them with pliers I bought a Taiwanese crimper tool for $37.00.

Click to expand...

Zoot, this is where mine come from as well. I just didn't know what they were called. Can you point me to what you bought and if you like it?

Click to expand...

My crimper came from the electronics shop a few doors down from Justin's store. It has no brand name marked on it.
It ratchets and has two notches for 18-22 and 24-30 AWG.
I've only used it a few times but it seems to work okay. Lots easier than doing it with pliers.

Does it look like this?

View attachment d-Sub Crimper.jpg

Ambrose

ambroseliao said:

Does it look like this?



Ambrose

Click to expand...

that looks like one of the "Eclipse" brand tools. they work very well. you can also get different DIE's or Heads for them to crimp other types of connectors.

rick

ambroseliao said:

Does it look like this?



Ambrose

Click to expand...

AFAICT, that's it.
There was tick box on the packaging to mark it for different models.

I bought one of these recently to do some crimping, without a lot of success on the socket contacts.

I found the width of the dies too big.
I wasn't able to crimp wire and insulation at the same time, due to height differences.
And couldn't fit crimp the wires section (1.7mm wide in image) in isolation, without destroying the contact housing part 9the 3.8mm part in the image).



So I either have the wrong width dies in the crimper, or I don't know the correct technique.

- Adrian

adrian_sm said:

I bought one of these recently to do some crimping, without a lot of success on the socket contacts.

I found the width of the dies too big.
I wasn't able to crimp wire and insulation at the same time, due to height differences.
And couldn't fit crimp the wires section (1.7mm wide in image) in isolation, without destroying the contact housing part 9the 3.8mm part in the image).



So I either have the wrong width dies in the crimper, or I don't know the correct technique.

- Adrian

Click to expand...

thes D-Sub contacts are not exactly the same as the JST-SM contacts. but most crimpers made for the D-Sub will do an acceptable job. the actual tools made by JST and AMP are model #WC-121 and cost over $400.

if your D-Sub crimping dies are too wide, do the obvious. remove them from the handles and using a grinder or file narrow them down a touch. careful examination of the die should show where it needs to be touched up.

rick

i'll add the writing later from work, running to work now, just added pics cos they'r on my pc.

added: i wanted to post here for last 1.5 months but no time, this is bugging me since.

im still confused, i found several crimpers for open barrel D-sub miniature contacts but they have a bit different tooth shapes.

what did you buy adrian that isnt working well for you ?

zoot katz how well is your HT-225 working for you in all cast sizes ?

what are you using rkosiorek for D-sub ?

i know i'l want to buy a ratcheting crimper but even between TRIcrimper the HT-225 (the blue 1 ambroseliao posted) and eclipse there is a difference in cast (tooth shape).
and then there's the awg difference, the eclipse and tricrimp are only good for 10-22 awg, HT-225 18-30, these contacts used mainly for balancing in ebikes and RC so 20awg and thiner is ok, but how is it working, is 1 size contact used for 18-30 awg just simply crimped less or more by different cast/tooth size, so if im limited to 22awg die but using 24awg wire i can fold it and itl crimp in a good way or what ?

i cant decide what to get, if the 22awg die in TRIcrimper will work for thiner wires say up to 26awg if i fold them then that's great i'l only buy additional D-sub die, if not then i'l have to buy tricrimper for andersons and the HT-225D for D-sub, or maybe the eclipse die for D-sub is shaped better, no clue.

the one i use looks like the one in the middle. i bought it many years ago at Canada Computers. but if i was buying one today i would likely go for the one pictured in the bottom.

rick

you wouldnt prefer the ratcheting 1 that Ambrose posted ?

i'm not sure but it looks like the ratcheting ones are too wide. if i did buy them i would have to grind down the width to suit the connectors. on the other hand the bottom ones look to be narrow enough to fit properly. if they are not i could likely do a good crimp by first crimping the wire by itself and then moving to a wider jaw to crimp the insulation.

rick