Since it ran in the forward direction you need to swap 2 halls or 2 phases, only 2, any 2. Then if you chose halls, now go to the phases and find the correct 1 out of 6. If you chose phases for the 2 wire swap, then go to the halls and find the correct one of 6. Maybe you'll get lucky and the original swap of 2 works with the one of 6 of the other already being the right one. The 2 wire swap was needed because your false positive right direction indicated that the one valid combo of halls or phases, with the other static, would have been a valid reverse.
With any neutrally timed sensored motor (almost all are neutral), every phase combination has 1 valid hall combination, and every hall combination has one valid phase combination. That means there are 6 valid combinations of 36. 3 or those are valid forwards and 3 are valid reverse. Some of the invalid combos can spin the wheel, and every one of thes "false positives" that I've seen spins the wheel in the opposite direction of the valid combo. The only exception I've seen is with the highest slot count big diameter motors like MagPies and others. It's actually a straight forward logic/math problem with 3 fixed position sensors and a circular rotation, and you have to which you have to match the firing order of the 3 phase wires that repeats since it runs in a circle.
All a mute point anyway, since you already blew the controller. I use thin wire with alligator clips to make my phase connections with a new motor or controller. As long as you're careful that nothing shorts with those 6 bare wires, the thin ones act like a nice fuse to protect motor and controller. As mentioned before use only small throttle
Look on the bright side. I bet you had the chain on. It could have been worse and you got the valid combo for that given set of halls or phases, which would have been reverse. Then the pedal whacks you in the leg, breaking it, and creating a short in the process that kills the battery, controller, and motor. So the bad combo that blew the controller actually saved you and your bike.
Any time something doesn't sound right on your ebike, check it out first. Continuing can only lead to worse. That goes for squeaks, which warn of a cracked steel frame, clicks when you hit regen, which warn that the axle is moving in the dropouts, and strange noises from the motor, which could be motor or controller issues. Any of these can lead to catastrophic failures if you ignore them. Only a bit of a growl on takeoff is normal.
If a single burnt controller ends up your only hard lesson in the hobby, you will have done well and gotten off easy. Go easy on the next controller until you have a smooth running combo with a fairly low no-load current which is about 4A with that big motor. You'll be having a blast in no time.
PS- You do have torque arms, don't you? If not, do not ride the bike with that big motor until you do. Imagine barely able to hold on to the bike after grabbing a handful of throttle and your dropout snaps off (aluminum I take it) leaving the accelerating motor and wheel attached to the bike only by the wiring....get video of that event and become famous, dead or alive.