Hubzilla is being a brat

[Kiwi]

new controller, same issues. A bit better, rough off the mark, smoother once up to speed but a oscillating power, and not impressive. Still not right, so what is it? Can the controller not handle it?

[zombiess]

If you are using a cycle analyst, disconnect it, then try again. If it's a hall issue a sensorless controller should drive it.

[Gow864]

I've just purchased an sensorless controller (thanks Hyena). I'll test it with that before i change the halls.

Gow.

[zombiess]

Kiwi, is your motor from the very first batch that was sold last year? Not the ones being sold now?

[Kiwi]

Its fresh, got it about 4 weeks ago.
I have a sensorless contoller from xlyte, will try that.

Its like some sort of timing issue, once up to speed, its not too bad, but I can tell its not right. But off the mark it barks and growls and rumbles.

[Gow864]

Managed to run my cromotor with a sensorless controller. It runs smooth and strong. Although, I've never used a sensorless controller, so I assume that losing sync under hard acceleration is normal? Anyway, it seems that all the phases are good, So now I'll change the hall sensors.

Cheers,
Gow.

[DesignerDan]

>Got new controller (Kelly Controller)
>Wire it up
>Try throttle
>get error code: "Motor did not start. Check phase and hall wires"
>Sad face
>Me too lazy to try all 36 combinations
>Turn to forum for help

Which would be a better bet? Trying all 36 combinations or just replace the halls? Considering hubzilla uses the same exact hall plug as the kelly controller, it seems ridiculous that I have to chop off the connector and rearrange all the wires. Why even bother putting a connector on the hall wires if it's not even going to be in the right combination. I would rather have no connector at all then have one but with the wrong wiring combo.

[DesignerDan]

I got it working! To thank endless sphere for putting up with me I'll contribute what color combo gave me a clean forward.

Phase wires. Controller:Motor

Blue:Yellow
Yellow:Green
Green:Blue

Hall wires. Controller:Motor

Yellow:Yellow
Green:Blue
Blue:Green

[briangv99]

Hi Dan,

which model Kelly did you get? torque throttle that Kelly will do is something I'm very keen to have once I get my Cromotor/Warp running.

cheers,

Brian

[DesignerDan]

I got this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kbs72121l50a ... -1175.html
It seems to be perfect for hubzilla. 4000 continuous watts and 10,000 burst watts.

[fractal]

I got this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kbs72121l50a ... -1175.html
It seems to be perfect for hubzilla. 4000 continuous watts and 10,000 burst watts.

Dont mean to be OT, but can you fit a CA on those?

[DesignerDan]

There's no direct plug-in but the install is pretty simple. The black and red whites go to the battery pack + and -. The white and blue are the current senor wires and need to be connected to an external shunt. I'll be buying this one: http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/Shunt0.5.jpg
The yellow is speed sensor and connects to a hall sensor wire and I honestly don't know what the green wire is for. lol But I will find out and wire it up and see how it all works.

[Gow864]

I replaced the halls in my cromotor. It was originally misfiring and had no torque. I put in honeywell 41a's. The result: No more misfiring runs smooth and has torque.....BUT, It will still from a dead start lose sync! doesn't seem to be a problem if it is already rolling. Any Ideas???? I'm going to re-program it as i can't remember what I set it to, but I'm not convinced I'm going to fix it by reprogramming.

Not sure what to do from here, I guess I'll have to source and try another controller.

Some notes on the original halls:
The slot that had been cut to fit the halls had burrs created during the cutting process. These burrs were folded back in once the halls were fitted, then encapsulated. In general it's fair to assume that something in this arrangement was causing a short and the misfiring. (that's my theory anyway) I cleaned off the burrs with my finger!

Gow.

[Kiwi]

Thats progress, what controller are you running.

[Gow864]

Thats progress, what controller are you running.

It's a Lyen 184110. I'm away form the bike for a couple of days. I'll try fiddling with the settings when I get back.

Gow.

[Gow864]

Well my problems with the cromotor seems to be over. new halls, programming adjustment and all is good.

Gow.

[nicobie]

That's good to hear.

What values did you settle on when programming the controller?

[Blackssr]

I got it working! To thank endless sphere for putting up with me I'll contribute what color combo gave me a clean forward.

Phase wires. Controller:Motor

Blue:Yellow
Yellow:Green
Green:Blue

Hall wires. Controller:Motor

Yellow:Yellow
Green:Blue
Blue:Green

How did you end up with this combo, may I ask? Trial and error, luck or was it a detailed proceedure? I was thinking of buying Hubzilla and a Lyen 12 fet controller but really would hate to deal with guessing the correct configuration.

Thanks in Advance,

Mike

[hillzofvalp]

my cromotor was true to color on my lyen 18fet. worked first time. hope this helps.

[Alan B]

The procedure for finding correct wiring is documented elsewhere on these forums.

Straight wiring worked on my Lyen/Cromotor setup.

Note that this is a three phase system, there are three equivalent wiring combinations that are rotations of one another. The correct solution is not unique.

[Gow864]

That's good to hear.

What values did you settle on when programming the controller?

Currently it's 60 battery and 150 phase, 0.1 block time. Happy like this for now.

Gow.

[shock]

Im under the impression if the hall and phase wires are not wired in the same arrangement (even if it not color to color) its probably a factory defect where a hall is in the wrong phase, or a wire is solidered to the wrong phase.

[moonshine]

What do you guys think about using the KBL controllers? im running 24s4p (99.9v HOC) so i ned the 24-96V kellys. My question to the peeps using kellys, is how are you connecting the throttle and 3 speed switch? My issue is the compatibility from lyen controllers to kellys. Is the hook up pretty straightforward?

This one is rated for 200a max for 1minute and 80a continuous, and as i understand is the PHASE current. Right?? if so...80a phase is frickin weak considering the fact that i used 125a on the 18fet. i know the 80a is continuous and i suppose you can safely do 125-150 continuous, but i would feel safer with the second one...250a max/100a cont.

http://kellycontroller.com/kbl9620124-9 ... -1122.html

http://kellycontroller.com/kbl9625124-9 ... -1123.html

what do you guys think???

oh yea, with my 18 4110, i had the color match up on both halls and phases.

[hillzofvalp]

If you can cool it, get the smaller one... I am putting a cromotor on my 160lb motorcycle and thinking of kbl.. Probably the one that is $450 ... The 200/100A rated 96V version.. There aren't a lot of times when you will do 200A for more than 10-30 seconds. I wonder if 200A is a true limit or just a median for an upper range say 150-250A.

If my logic is correct, you should go for the smaller one for an ebike.

And by the way, from the way you worded it you may think that the controller limits to 80A at times. However, just to clarify, it only has one upper limit... And it is up to the user to save the controller. In other words, the smaller kbl will have more pep than the 18FET at 125A. The best way to determine what it is capable of is what and how many FETs it has... Assuming the thermal transfer is optimum

You probably are running 60-80A continuos on your 18FET with capability to do 100A for one minute (if you load up qthe motor at 125A for 30 seconds it will probably end badly). Again, it's hard to visualize the rating without modeling it

[moonshine]

I guess my confusion lies within the current ratings. I believe I read that Lyen controllers are rated by the battery current. So an 18 4110 is capable of 65a cont. So my controller settings are 50a main and 125a phase. Does the motor see 125a??? If so, I read that Kelly's current ratings are from the phases not battery. So the $450 Kelly does 80a phase, which is a significant difference from 125a. Am I right??

Also...if the compatibility issue with my components is too much of headache then I'm 100% goin with methods' 24fet. As long as he gets back to me!!

Oh and I think my dh comp is beefier then the mopedish frame your looking at. My bike ended up turning into a dirt bike with pedals. It's at least 150lb.