Cycle analyst

[Jay64]

I just got home from work and I had my cycle analyst waiting for me. The only thing is that there is no instructions whatsoever with it. I mean, it looks fairly straight forward. However, I'm not sure exactly which wires to tap into with the cntrlr wires, and I'm not sure what I need to do to calibrate it for my size wheels. There is a spoke magnet and I remember reading something about it being able to read speed and give readings based on miles traveled, but I would think that I would need to calibrate it somehow to the size of my rim.

[EMF]

No worries!
http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml
http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain/DrainBrain_Manual.pdf
http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain/Temporary_CA_Manual.txt

to answer your one question:

Set # Poles
For Direct Plug-in units, this should be set to the number of Hall Effect transitions
per full rotation of the wheel. Crystalyte 400 series hubs have 8 while the 5300
series hubs have 12. For units that use a speedometer sensor and spoke
magnet, #poles should be set to 1, unless you have multiple magnets on the
wheel.

<<snipp>>

The DrainBrain is shipped with a default wheel circumference of
2075mm, corresponding to a typical 26" tire. In order to program your
exact wheel size, hold the button down while the meter is being
powered on. You will then be presented with the wheel circumference
in millimetres. Toggle the value of the flashing digit by pressing the
button, and hold the button to save it and move to the next digit.

[Jay64]

Oh yeah. Ha ha. I didn't even think of going to the ebikes website for the information. Thanks man.

[Jay64]

Has anyone here installed one of these on an ezip yet? There is a small enclosure for the electronics, such as the on/off switch and controller. However, it is already jammed packed with just the stock wiring and controls, I don't think there is any room for anything else in there. The CA instructions say to put the shunt between the on/off switch and the controller, which seems to me would require it to be inside that box. Anyone know if that shunt is water proof. I think if I attach it to the out side of that enclosure and drill some holes for the wires to go in, it might work. I would just have to make sure to water proof the holes.

[Ypedal]

The shunt is water tight, no problems there.. as long as it's anywhere between the battery and controller it will work.

[Jay64]

It looks pretty waterproof.
The website says to put it between the on/off switch and the controller so that it will power down when the bike it turned off.

[Jay64]

Ok, I got my cycle analyst installed onto my ezip. Now I need to try to calibrate it to my bike. I was reading through the online manual and it said to measure the circumference of the tire. The default is 2075mm. I taped a piece of string around my tire and measured it out to be about 2065 mm. But that was with a suspension specific tape measure (the only one I have in mm) and it would only go about 870mm at a time, so I had to reset the end of the tape three times. As a result, I don't know how exact that measurement was. So I re-measured it with my inches tape measure and got 81.5 inches=2070mm. I'm guessing that the default is close enough. But then again, I guess it would be good practice to change it to the correct number so that I have a handle on that when I need to recalibrate it for the larger shunt when I go to higher power on the next build.
I must say though, there was a moment of excitment when I hit the power switch and the display jumped to life. It seems just as cool as the full data aquisition system I have on my formula xtreme bike.

[Mark_A_W]

Put a mark on the side of the tyre, line it up on a mark on the ground, then roll one full revolution, mark the ground, and measure the distance between the two lines on the ground.

The default was fine for my bike, measures same as my speedo (which I set).

[Jay64]

I went with the measurment from my string calculated off the inches, 2070mm. Went out and did a couple of test runs up and down my street. My homemade battery box is slightly broken at the moment, so I only hooked up one 28v battery, fully charged, for this test. I noticed that I gained about .5 mph by leaning forward into a 'racer tuck' while pedaling at the same rate.

27.9v 0.03a (while I was sitting. maybe I need to re-set that, or maybe it was just powering down still.) 0.869ah 0.748mi

watt-hrs 20.684 wh/mi 27.8

fwdah 0.8701

Amin -0.06 Amax 36.19 Vmin 17.8

maxS 20.4 AvgS 13.9 0h3m13s

[EcoForumZ]

I went with the measurment from my string calculated off the inches, 2070mm. Went out and did a couple of test runs up and down my street. My homemade battery box is slightly broken at the moment, so I only hooked up one 28v battery, fully charged, for this test. I noticed that I gained about .5 mph by leaning forward into a 'racer tuck' while pedaling at the same rate.

27.9v 0.03a (while I was sitting. maybe I need to re-set that, or maybe it was just powering down still.) 0.869ah 0.748mi

watt-hrs 20.684 wh/mi 27.8

fwdah 0.8701

Amin -0.06 Amax 36.19 Vmin 17.8

maxS 20.4 AvgS 13.9 0h3m13s

Does the cycle analyst show how many amps are being used by the controller? I want to see how many amps are used with my 36v battery compared to the 24 on the ezip. I saw the controller on the ezip and it says 35 amps on the top so I am wondering what it is actually running at.

[Link]

Does the cycle analyst show how many amps are being used by the controller? I want to see how many amps are used with my 36v battery compared to the 24 on the ezip. I saw the controller on the ezip and it says 35 amps on the top so I am wondering what it is actually running at.

That would be the "27.9v 0.03a" part. Controller's sucking 30mA.