Using the NuVinci hub on my e-bike

tapholov

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Joined
Jun 17, 2008
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56
Hi,

I have two e-bikes and I'll quickly describe how I got to the NuVinci hub.

My first e-bike was a 26" norco frame with a Golden Motor 500W front hub. I started with 36V 7Ah lead batteries, added another GM 500W wheel at the rear and moved to 36V 18AH lead batteries. The bike was extremely heavy. Adding a front suspension made handling a little less stiff and I bought a 36V 13AH NimH batterie to improve performance and weight. I liked the set-up but wanted improvement. Replacing the NiMh with a LifePo4 at 36V 20AH gave me reliable power and good acceleration. I called it 'my tractor', rear and front wheel-drive.

I've since removed the rear wheel mostly because I keep bending rims. Along with switching back to a normal wheel, I trashed the deraillors and added a 53T chainring in the front and a 16T freewheel in the back. I can pedal until I reach 27-28km/h and then the motor gets the bike up till about 34km/h. The lighter rear end stills needs a suspension set-up but the bike is fun and definitively as light as can be.

My second e-bike project started with a nice Jamis 26" frame. Once completed with parts from all over the world, it made a very, very nice fully-suspended ride. I installed a Super BMC 750W motor from EV Deals in front of the pedals and double-chained it using a ratcheted pedal set from Australia. It took a while to adjust the gearing since the motors runs real quick. I ended up with 10T on the motor, 48T attached to a 22T at the middle and a 53T sprocket on the rear wheel. I had good acceleration and a top speed of 42/44 km/h. The problem was that the pedals were absolutely useless. So I got a little more creative.

I found the widest BB I could buy and went back to normal pedals with one 53T sprocket. Behind that sprocket, I inserted a bearing that supports two other sprockets. Those link the motor to the wheel independantly from the pedals. The next miracle was to grind a normal 16T freewheel to fit over the existing freewheel found on the rear hub. One works on top of the other. When the motor runs, the wheel moves but the pedals don't. When I pedal, all three chains move but the motor also has a freewheel so I'm not fighting it. Sounds complicated but it works and I could then pedal a bit more effectively, to about 25 km/h and then it's useless. That set-up was usefull for steep hills, hills that I would never be able to go up with the other e-bike, pedal or not.

When I first spotted a NuVinci hub on E-Bay, I bought it right away out of curiosity and potential designs. It turned out easier than I thought. The hub is certainly heavy but it does incorporate a freewheel. In fact they give you a freewheel that screws on top of that freewheel. A simple clip retains an adaptor on which I welded a much bigger sprocket. I actually got a 60T and I don't think that I can go any bigger. The reason behing the bigger sprocket is that the NuVinci gives me underdrive and overdrive. I wanted to emphasize underdrive since I had already reached my top ratio in term of the motor. I thought I would only use half of the NuVinci potential.

Upon using the bike, I can report the following. Well. it takes a while for the hub to break-in. I was a little discouraged at first, I felt like I was dragging a caravan + I had problems figuring out the ratios. I was constantly overdoing the shifts. In fact, I initially thought that I could just switch the motor on full and slide those NuVinci balls up the ratio scale. It doesn't shift that well under power. Back to my motorcycle day: first gear, second gear, third gear with a slight pause in between. It's absolutely marvelous to come up to another biker with the little motor screaming, looking him in the eye, shifting and pulling away with that low growl that motors made in their low rpm. Priceless... And although it would be nice to be able to go to the max overdrive on motor alone, having that extra-overdrive actually permits me to pedal to excesses of 50Km/h. It's like going back to a pedal-assist motor. At those speeds, I actually help the motor help me. Cool!

I still have to figure out whether all of this is worth it. Electric motors do not have snappy reactions like a two stroke. They build up their rpm slowly and pull equally. What I mean to say is that it's not because I'm in a lower ratio that the bike jump-starts ahead faster. And I still have to evaluate it's climbing ability. I'm very happy that I can pedal through-out the speed range.

More tests and videos on Youtube will follow.
 
Hi

Sounds good, the nuvinici should work fine with that kind of power level as well, people had problems with them slipping but that was using an Etek!

Some pictures before you treat us with the video would be cool!!

Knoxie
 
Pictures!!!
 
Hi!

I mean... I go to work, the low route, the steep route. It's fine. I amuse myself with the slow-electric one while I was figuting that one out. But that one is now one-of-a-kind. .. Went trail-riding a bit today and O.K., it doesn't pull incredibly uphill but I attracted attention anyway.

Going uphill somewhat fast riddles the people that can't figure it out.

More later,


Hugues
 

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That transmission cries out for full automaticity (?) Could a PAS type detector attached to a small geared motor create this situation???? The engineering is over my head, but Miles and Matt might be able to translate this into some form of reality?????? :?
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
That transmission cries out for full automaticity (?) Could a PAS type detector attached to a small geared motor create this situation???? The engineering is over my head, but Miles and Matt might be able to translate this into some form of reality?????? :?
otherDoc

One of the problems would be that the NuVinci doesn't seem to shift easily under load, as Hugues said.
 
Is that load pedal or motor or both? You cant shift a Sturmey Archer 3 speed well under load either! MAybe back like the old Saxomatic electric clutch! Lots of stuff hates to shift gears under power. Momentary shifting really only means racing, from what I remember?!?!?!?!
otherDoc
 
That's very interesting. I know what one of those motors can do with an external controller :twisted:

Where did you get the motor sprocket? The stock sprocket is for a #25 chain but yours looks like a regular bike chain.

How does the motor chain work with the sprocket on the bottom bracket? Is it just an idler or is there some kind of freewheel there?
 
This is a similar arrangement to the one that Malcolm was considering, a while back.
See: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3306&p=49299#p49299
 
Nice one. I'm wondering about the bike chain on the ungeared motor too. You say its a 10t on the motor, chain speed must still be quite high. Then there is a gear down jackshaft concentric with the crank, bearings and a spacer to get three sprockets in there, miracle might not be far off.. how did you get everything to play nicely together?
 
I wanna know how you attached two freewheels to the Nuvinci hub?
 
Pictures were made of the triple-chain assembly.

As for the sprocket on the NuVinci, let me refer you to this web page:

http://nomoregears.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/Installation%20Freewheel%20070508.pdf

and you'll see that the freewheel screws on an adapter. Well, a 36T metal sprocket was welded to that adapter and a 60T sprocket was then attached on top.

Hope all of this helps!

More later.

Tapholov
 

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Dual Parallel Chains

The dual chain approach is very interesting. By avoiding the pedal chain and using a second I guess you skip the need for a front freewheel.

Hmmm...

...interesting idea. :)

It looks to be a very durable setup and I guess you are able to either use the motor or your pedals or both or neither this way. (if one chain breaks you have a backup)
 
hi,

still living with the NuVinci hub...

So far....

I think that the hub takes a lot of Hp out of the motor. It's fun to shift ratios and hear the motor humm differently...

But I really wonder whether it was that bad to only think about direction and not transmission....

After all, the electric motor is all about constant torque and in terms of transmiting that torque to the rear wheel, it really doesn't matter what gear you'r in, the motor will pull or not...

and power doesn't appear instantly. Unless you have millions of volts, it's still a bicycle, so, there must be a limit...

Riding these electric bike is a lesson in 'consistency'....

Just imagine traffic jams of electric vehicules, all needing a charge very soon....



So, right now, I'm still thinking and I have a 24" rim at my side. I'll try to reduce the ratio from motor to the wheel a little more. I want to get the full extent of the NuVinci. It might be that the motor is not powerfull enough....


I'm waiting for things, I got the 24" rim but I'm also waiting for 48V batteries. Things go on...

I'll try go figure out how to include YouTube things in here but right now,

go to YouTube.com and search for Tapholov,

and enjoy how I can get free transportation out of spending a lot of money....


Bye for now!


Hugues
 
Hugues, can you please post some more pics of your bike?

I think I have the same frame - I have a Jamis Dakar XC Comp.


Nice brakes, and what is the front wheel? It looks like a Tag wheel on an Optibike...they are $800 a pair I think?


I watched your Youtube videos. Goes really well, only downside I can see (hear?) is the noise of the motor or front chain.
 
Hi Mark,

Thanks for the good comment.

My frame is a Jamis Jakar 20th anniversary edition 2005. I bought it from a guy in Japan and it made it all the way to Canada no problems.

It took a good part of last winter to find the usual accessories on E-Bay and I am really pleased with the results.

The wheels are simple aluminium mag wheels that a fellow on e-bay sells for the 49cc motorised schwinn but I've also seen them a little cheaper from another e-bay guy located in Taiwan (where everything is made...) I really liked the idea of going spokeless and it wasn't that expensive, maybe $225 for the set. I of course had to discard the rear wheel when I moved to the NuVinvi hub. It went on the other bike.

So, I've made my new purchases today and I'm ready to switch the 26" rear wheel for a 24" and see whether I can use the overdrive a bit more... and get more hill-clibing ability out of my motor.

And yes, a big drawback is the noise. I think it's the motor that growls. It turns heads, especially at night. Not very stealth.

Anyway, I'll let the forum know of my progress.


Bye for now, more pictures soon.


Hugues
 
Hmm...that first stage could be a belt drive...you'd have to look into the power and speed limits for a belt though.
 
Hi,

Finally got the 24" rim on the NuVinci hub. Took a few days because one of my cats managed to hide one little spoke out of sight and I couldn't go back to the store right away to get another one.

So, esthetically, there's not that much difference between the 26" and the 24". Just more room under the fender.

One big discovery however was done while the wheel was disassembled because I did put the old wheel back for a while (got to go to work, right!)

Well, I felt I was riding a cloud. The motor pulled like crazy, went quickly to its top speed and actually got its watts at the recommended spot.

Back to the bench.

Using a tachometer, I tested the NuVinci hub. Sure enough there is that 350% difference in wheel speed depending on the setting but the motor certainly turns slower. Let's put this simply. With the wheel totally free to roll, the motor turned at a 1000rpm (read the P.S. note). Without the NuVinci hub, same size wheel, the motor turned at 1500 rpm. Ain't that amazing! The Nuvinci hub steals 33% of the power of the motor.

Translated into riding/power terms, this is why at top speed (42km/h) with the normal wheel, the motor goes from needing 1200W to a comfortable 750W. I could never attain that with the NuVinci. Top speed is 38km/h and the motor always struggles at 1200W. When I think about it, it's not so good, the motor heats up quickly, the controller probably go 'what the hell!!', etc...

On with the 24" wheel.

Well, I got the full range of the NuVinci hub, and at the almost highest ratio right now, the bike goes at 38km/h and I have correspondingly a little more underdrive. While riding up and down trails and doing some flat-ground testing, I was finally able to reduce that power demand (1200W to 750W) but then the bike only goes at 27km/h.

Everything kinda corresponds. The Nuvinci eats up 1/3 of everything, everything else being equal. It's something that might not be readily noticable at low speed but that becomes evident at higher ones.

I need more power and I'll be able to do that once I get the 48V batteries...

But then, the lightness of the regular hub tempts me a lot now and I'm debating where to go next. Using the NuVinci hasn't made the bike a lot more versatile, just heavier. There's more choices but no surprising results. I could compare this to using an automatic versus a standard transmission on a car. Both will get you going but it's really a question of attitude. Yes, the standard transmission will get you out of snowbanks easier but we usually forget that the automatic transmission has a low gear set-up.

That's what I might be aiming towards now. There only needs to be two speeds: high and low and I do know that there's a amazing long post that deals with that (from RC motors to transmissions).

It's all about having a good trail-bike or a good roadster. Different demands that lead to differend set-up/speeds. I'll definitively try the NuVinci with the 48V battery but I'm also thinking about removing the NuVinci hub from the 24" wheel and setting it up for hill-climbing/trail ride with a regular hub. Going up trails at 25/30 km/h isn't bad taking into consideration the uneven terrain. I could alternatively put another gear on the 26" wheel and depending on the situation, flip the chain from one to the other myself.

Anyway, that's in the future. Right now, I'm waiting for those batteries.

Bye for now,

Tapholov


P.S. I have part of the rpm tests on YouTube.com (search for tapholov) and for you purists, I'll mention that the motor should have been going at more than a 1000 rpm. I don't know why the tachometer only showed a 1000. Later tests showed 5000 and then an amazing 10000. It's a small gear to aim at with the laser beam. However, what is important is that all the tests were consistent within a short period, switching gears and switching wheels.
 
Apparently the NuVinci needs to run in to loosen up?

Is yours run in?
 
Hi Mark,

I guess it's broken in, I've got about 75 km on it and I really can't see how it would spin better.

With the older wheel, a normal cassette-type freewheel with minimum friction, I wank the motor and it spins forever. With the NuVinci, the wheel stops quickly. There's just a lot of friction.

I'm a little disappointed but then, what was I expecting?

As was my intention to say before, I wish I had a strong enough motor to pull the resistance, but it's eating away my power. And it's going to do the same thing with the 48V batteries. More power but more friction that eats away that power. I'll gain but my feeling is that the 48Vs are also going to be quite an improvement with the normal wheel, maybe more so. An improvement that will negate the fact that with the NuVinci, I have a variable transmission. I really thing that I should only have two speeds: High and low, fast or powerfull.

So, this is an on-going thing and I'll see what's up as it comes.

Thank you for following this post. I'll have a pic of the whole bike in the coming days.

Hasta la vista,

Tapholov
 
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