Did I burn up my hs3540

Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
252
Location
Hudson, New Hampshire USA
Ok----

myebike.JPG


----infineon 40A controller

-----crystalyte hs3540R from grin with temp sensing

------CAv3


Ive ridden it over 300 miles without an issue until yesterday. Motor was getting hot at around 100 celsius, so I backed off.(ive ridden it TO about 120 degrees celsius a few times, but shut it down as soon as it reaches that temp) Then I had a nice downhill section so I gave it some throttle and the motor made a weird whining noise, the bike "shuddered" and i left off again. after about 30 seconds of coasting I tried the throttle again- under 100 degrees and it worked fine. After that I had a short uphill section and it made the whining/shuddering and the throttle cut out completely. I had to pedal it (75lb beach cruiser) about 3 miles to work. The battery voltage was reading fine....the CA showed proper throttle input and output....I bypassed the CA, wired the throttle directly to controller- nothing.

I swapped the throttle- both are good. I performed the mosfet test with a multimeter on my controller- none are shorted. The green phase wire connector(controller side) was melted slightly. The yellow phase wire connector(motor side) was melted pretty badly.... So is the motor junk....and is grin cyclery going to warranty something like this out?

I removed all the phase connector housings and tied the bare wires together and tried the throttle------the wires get very very hot quickly and the bike moves barely, in reverse and kind of shudders....

heres a pic of the connectors for the phase wiring

connector1.JPG
connector12.JPG
 
Sounds like you burnt up a hall sensor. Do you have a ebike tester or meter for testing the halls?

What kind of Infineon controller? Is it one of those new Grin controllers with sensorless/sensored operation?
 
burnt hall sensor....works fine with halls disconnected :lol:

I had a bad connection at the phase wiring when i tried running it with the hall wires disconnected before. after I fixed the connection and unplugged the hall wires it works perfectly-----yayyyyyyyyy


I dont really feel any difference running it without hall sensors-----maybe because Im running a high battery voltage and higher current- it accelerates quickly and smoothly just like before
 
danjpendleton said:
burnt hall sensor....works fine with halls disconnected :lol:

I had a bad connection at the phase wiring when i tried running it with the hall wires disconnected before. after I fixed the connection and unplugged the hall wires it works perfectly-----yayyyyyyyyy


I dont really feel any difference running it without hall sensors-----maybe because Im running a high battery voltage and higher current- it accelerates quickly and smoothly just like before

hall sensors do their best helping start up. But newer controllers are quite smarter and only require the tiniest of motor roll to get synced. So if you pedal a little bit on take off, you might not even notice that it is not sensored.

And actually, sensorless operation has some benefits at higher rpms. (Don't quote me on that though, I don't know enough about that to be 100%)
 
Love this bike buddy. Definitely a hall sensor. I melt em regularly. Buy a boat load from rs.

Thanks si
 
izeman said:
have we yet agreed about the best pattern to drill the sidecovers?
lol. doubt it. but thanks for creating another battleground. enemies, at arms! :twisted:

my own feeling is that if you can put giant holes on both sides of the windings, the heat will easily escape, especially if you're going fast enough. if you're going slow up a steep hill, the venting isn't as effective.

if you can force air through by whatever means, than surely better, but how much cooler will it be than large vented holes near the windings?

has anyone yet tested in a wind tunnel that simulates real world conditions?

and why haven't more people (or manufacturers) done the keyne method?
 
This is great info for me; I'm running an HS3540 between 60 - 70V and routinely get temps between 100C and 110C (where power is limited by CA). From what I've read, it's only a matter of time before I burn out a hall sensor.

Good luck with the repairs danjpendleton; the phase connectors look a little cooked in the pics!
 
thanks. im going to run it sensorless for a while. Instead of running anderson connectors Im using heavy duty heatshrink butt connectors to connect the phase wires from the controller to the motor. Ill have to pull the whole controller off with the motor if I do have to remove the rear wheel, but Id much rather deal with that aggrivation if the time comes, then risk another burnt up connector.

I should have ordered the vented side covers from grin.....

anyway to drill those holes safely without unlacing the wheel?
 
danjpendleton said:
anyway to drill those holes safely without unlacing the wheel?
no need to unlace the wheel!

there are surely better guides out there, but i just search my vids for 'drill' and found these... :mrgreen:
[youtube]pvAvKhhcqAY[/youtube]
[youtube]C4n-BoRQHUU[/youtube]
and while i wasn't using a bi-metal hole saw, i totally recommend one instead of predrilling and those other bits i was using...

and you don't need the gear pull either (unless the bearing gets left behind on the axle, as it always does w/ me on the hs3540). you can just remove all side cover screws and then stand on the rim with the wire side up to push down the wheel (and magnet ring).

oh, i kinda think you'll need the freewheel tool, right? i always yank it beforehand...
 
GCinDC said:
izeman said:
have we yet agreed about the best pattern to drill the sidecovers?
lol. doubt it. but thanks for creating another battleground. enemies, at arms! :twisted:

my own feeling is that if you can put giant holes on both sides of the windings, the heat will easily escape, especially if you're going fast enough. if you're going slow up a steep hill, the venting isn't as effective.

if you can force air through by whatever means, than surely better, but how much cooler will it be than large vented holes near the windings?

has anyone yet tested in a wind tunnel that simulates real world conditions?

and why haven't more people (or manufacturers) done the keyne method?


I have an HT3525 with holes drilled in 2 patterns on opposite sides. My theory is that the differing hole sizes help the Bernoulli effect.

I am in the process of installing a new axle and bearings along with 3 separate thermistors. The plan is to monitor different sections of the motor using various methods of covering different combinations of holes and measuring the differences. I will have to use a standardized 'route'/conditions to test the various permutations, so it may take some time before a usable conclusion may be drawn.
 
Not sure about your motor, but my TC-80 motor regularly goes over 100C. Sometime it hits 142C. But it cools off pretty quick. So far it is still fine. The hall sensors are rated for 150C max temperature if they are legit SS41 hall sensor.

Maybe your motor have crappy or fake SS41 hall sensors and hence why it is going out.
 
This approach works well. Round holes near axles and kinda slot type holes near the periphery

My 9C at 2kw never gets above 70C (on a 40C+ day).

20130407_142229.jpg


20130407_153837.jpg
 
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