Throttle cruise control question

Quick question before I proceed and possibly do something stupid.

I have a GM throttle with a micro switch for a lighting setup and a Kelly controller without cruise control.

Would I be able to send 5v source to the micro switch and out to the throttle position sense line going to the controller, bypassing the throttle, as a makeshift full throttle toggle on/off? I have a thumb throttle and it's becoming uncomfortable for long commutes. Would it damage the hall sensor in the throttle if the output receives 5v or would I need to use a diode?

Thanks for the input and feedback in advance, and no, I can't just by a half/full twist throttle at this time. I'm just looking for a temporary solution for a few weeks/months.

Some controllers don't like the full 5v, so you have to try it. I think I'd put a 1K resistor on the signal line, just to give a bit of protection to the controller. Why not get a pedal sensor, which would be a much better solution. Also, I would recommend brake switches if you do your switch mod.

You could use an old Xlyte cruise control module that hooks up between the throttle and controller. These can be used with any controller and can be had from Lyen for $19. These are reported to give quite nice control.

View attachment 1
But - it looks like you may be trying to low-ball it for a while, so-

Ussyamoto said:

Would it damage the hall sensor in the throttle if the output receives 5v or would I need to use a diode?

Click to expand...

Assuming you have a KEB style controller:
The controller really won't mind the 5v straight in - that is actually in-spec. A quick glance at the user manual seems to indicate that it is sensitive to the throttle input voltage exceeding the 'standard' hall range ( roughly 1V - 4V more or less).

• error 2.4 Throttle error at power up - The throttle signal is higher than configured dead zone at power-on
• error 4.2 Hall sensor signal error

So - there are two issues: reducing the WOT switch voltage and tying the hall throttle Sense lead directly to a higher voltage. Many members here have successfully tied the outputs of two throttles together and the higher one wins - but the datasheets for typical ratiometric halls are sparse on details on the output stages. It frankly does not look like a good practice even though it appears to work empirically. I would recommend you do something like the following:


The diode can be anything you have handy (1N4148, 1N914, 1N4001, etc) - we are really looking for it to supply a DC voltage drop of about .7v to limit the WOT input voltage and avoid having a controller hissy fit. The resistor is for the benefit of the throttle hall as a current limiter. I believe you were thinking of a diode in place of the resistor, but that will shift the throttle voltage downward by .7V so will need a similar second series diode on the switch and will also need to reprogram the controller throttle range - the resistor seems tidier...

It goes without saying that any kind of throttle setup like this is a foolish thing to do if you don't have ebrakes, so....

I wish there were some nice 'discrete' cruise controllers too... that Xlyte looks kinda close but so bright ans space wasting... I wonder if the brakes cut it totally?

At the moment I have a knotted string tied to the thumb throttle, when I want cruise, I hold thumb on and hook the string into the brake lever hinge....

This works really well and as soon as I brake the string is released and cruise disengaged completely.

I wish there was an electric one with similar logic (especially killing cruise as soon as you brake)
I'd like an accelerator dial too, so I can wind it up/down speed, but still know that all I do is tap the brake and all cruise is disabled...

menvert said:

I wish there was an electric one with similar logic (especially killing cruise as soon as you brake)
I'd like an accelerator dial too, so I can wind it up/down speed, but still know that all I do is tap the brake and all cruise is disabled...

Click to expand...

Any commercial cruise control will cut the cruise when ebrakes are applied - the Xlyte does this (of course) and has up/down speed adjustment - look at the picture.

teklektik said:

menvert said:

I wish there was an electric one with similar logic (especially killing cruise as soon as you brake)
I'd like an accelerator dial too, so I can wind it up/down speed, but still know that all I do is tap the brake and all cruise is disabled...

Click to expand...

Any commercial cruise control will cut the cruise when ebrakes are applied - the Xlyte does this (of course) and has up/down speed adjustment - look at the picture.

Click to expand...

Okay, good to know, I wondered, given that the description only mentioned that it intercepted the throttle wires, no mention of brake wires, i don't want it to re-engage as soon as I take my hand off the brakes.

Edit: I will be keen to try the Xlyte one soon

d8veh said:

Some controllers don't like the full 5v, so you have to try it. I think I'd put a 1K resistor on the signal line, just to give a bit of protection to the controller. Why not get a pedal sensor, which would be a much better solution. Also, I would recommend brake switches if you do your switch mod.

Click to expand...

Hi,
which type of pedal sensor?
on-of or proportional-load cell?

Fabio

fab0 said:

d8veh said:

Some controllers don't like the full 5v, so you have to try it. I think I'd put a 1K resistor on the signal line, just to give a bit of protection to the controller. Why not get a pedal sensor, which would be a much better solution. Also, I would recommend brake switches if you do your switch mod.

Click to expand...

Hi,
which type of pedal sensor?
on-of or proportional-load cell?

Fabio

Click to expand...

If you want to use pedal assist, it's best to get a a controller with LCD, where you can select up to 5 levels of assist. Most of them work on speed control, so the 5 levels are like 5 different cruise speeds. I personally don't like torque sensor systems. I prefer a crank-speed sensor.

teklektik said:

You could use an old Xlyte cruise control module that hooks up between the throttle and controller. These can be used with any controller and can be had from Lyen for $19. These are reported to give quite nice control.

Click to expand...

I finally received my CC module, it works really well, instant activation, and the + & - are nice (Though need to press - a couple times before it gets a voltage under my controllers 100% mark)
It actually connects between both the throttle and the brakes, postage from Lyen was very reasonable (even if it took 3-4 weeks for USPS to deliver it)
It's the Larger white 3 pin Throttle plug and larger white 2 pin brake plugs, both with a pass-through, I had to rewire it for my smaller black 3 pin throttle and 3 pin brakes.

Hello,
I have GNG Gen1.1 mid drive stock controller and was trying to parallel hook Crystalyte cruise control with my throttle based on http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17364
But CC seems not working, it's blinking red light when pushing +/- buttons but no voltage on output pin. Original throttle works. Do I need to push throttle to activate CC or my controller is not able to work with it?
Thanks.

You didn't actually tell us exactly how you wired your control.

It should look like this (or equivalent):


This works exclusively on the throttle signal and should work with any controller.

You set the throttle to the desired speed and push the Cruise button. This locks the throttle voltage seen by the controller to the present throttle voltage. The +/- buttons allow you to adjust this voltage up/down.

Do not use this without ebrakes - very dangerous!