Ebike kit not working

Hi,
Please help. i bought a second hand ebike kit which consists of :

Banfang 250w hub motor on 700c
King-meter
Controller: CE:G3M20211-1592-16.

It all looks virtually new with the odometer displaying 330 miles or km? can't recall format.
The speedo unit lights up and even displays speed when the wheel is turned however no drive results from throttle use.

I have carried out some tests as stated in Mathew Slinns Great Build your own Electric bike book. The Controllers capacitors and FETs are ok, the throttle seems to be working however the hub will not power up and I confirmed ( with multi-meter) There is no power across the phase wires when throttle is opened. I have noticed (with controller cover removed) as soon as the system is switched on, at the Dash board (king-meter) there is a small red light on the controller circuit board constantly flashing. What does this indicate? Also there are three modes on the dashboard? I do not have any instructions to go on Any advice please.

if you have the controller open show us a picture of the controller so we know what you have. do you have a DVM?

Welcome to ES****Do this before your first post or now (it's retroactive)*****
Please go to the User Control Panel, select Profile, and then enter your city, state/province, and country into the Location field (country minimum) and save it. Once done, your location will appear in every post so you won't have people asking where you are ever again. This will help people help you. Example: Wylie, TX, USA. or just USA, but country as a minimum, and country is the most important. There are many cities with the same name all over the world. Without knowing what country you are in it's hard to make any recommendations. Thank you.

Problem has endless possibilities id causes. Most common are controller not hooked up properly in some way. Ignition wire not connected, power switch off, battery wrong or low, etc., etc, etc. First thing to check is battery voltage and connections and then go from there. When you fill in your location there may be someone close that can gave a look.

Thanks for replies, I have updated my location.
There is 40v across both of the two battery points. Sorry for ignorance but what is DVM?
Please see photos which (not the best quality i'm afraid) hopefully show red flashing circuit board light.
View attachment 6

DVM is digital voltmeter. can you measure the DC voltage where the two big red and black wires are connected?

does this bike use pedelec assist? can you measure a voltage between the red and black wires that go to the throttle?

Hi Domino, welcome to ES. A DVM is a most valuable tool to have when working on Ebikes. I'd recommend getting one. Good ones are not expensive. My first thought is that one of the E-brake switches is shorted or the lever is not fully returning. Try unplugging the the E-brake connector, usually has 2 leads in to thee connector, from the controller connector. If you then get revs, you've got a shorted or out of adjusted switch.

The LED in the controller flashes constantly when everything is OK. When it detects a problem, the flashing changes to a repeated sequence, like four flashes and a pause.

You can't normally deyect power on the phase wires because it's only pulsed for a few pulses. You need an ebike tester to see what's happening. You can find one on Ebay very cheap, or you can get them from Em3ev.com.

You've checked most of the common things, but you should leave the brakes disconnected until you get it going. Have a look at all the connectors to see that the colours match on each side, especially the motor hall sensor connector and the throttle.

DVM = multimeter, which you already have.

Good information thank you.
I am still testing the rig on the bench before installing on a suitable bike and the brake sensors are disconnected ie open circuit - Or is it closed to run? I shall check this......

I am struggling to find user instructions for the y-lcd king-meter. King meter themselves do not have any information on this discontinued unit. I recall from somewhere that the 3 modes are in relation to pedal assist use/level so knowing this would help with the testing.

Happy weekend all

Having now checked all crucial wiring ie vulnerable areas where cable passes into axle and hub, also checked the brake switches. I was wondering if testing the kit in the bench is the problem? does anyone know if these kits need to grounded ie through the bike?

Thanks for any input

no, ground is not connected to the bike frame.

Your kit will work independently on the bench.

To test on the bench, you should connect only the essential things: King meter, battery, motor and throttle, however, there's some kits for the European market, where the throttle doesn't work unless you're pedalling, so it might be better to test with the PAS instead. The PAS will only work in one direction, which depends on which way up the magnet disc is. It takes a bit of practice to hold the sensor in one hant and rotate the disc with the other. I usually use a low speed electric drill.

Things suddenly looked up. The pas sensor on a battery drill test did the trick, seemingly there was not alot wrong with the kit all along My first ebike build rapidly ensued, and that week two gloriuos 16m round work commutes, the second being especially pleasurable having made a few esential geometry adjustments to suit the pedaless riding style. The next evening the tinkering continued, seat lowering for aerodynamics and I moved the pas to the rear wheel in the hope of eliminating the need for pedal rotation. Then disaster struck, it's always the last thing, when your tired and not concentrating, I went to move the lcd display nearer the grips and lazily neglected to sufficiently loosen the clamp and instead opted for brute force !! I heard a slight pop then all was dead! No display power and no drive. Hrmmph.
Suitable penance for my mindlessness as now in possession of a new led instrument and a new controller. The problem now is that I ordered a Hall affect controller believing this was suitable for my Bafang brushless motor. After installing new equipment and getting no drive still I preceded to check motor it was then that i discovered the motor has only Three small wires red, black and blue as well as the 3 larger phase wires. The blue wire produces alternating 0- 4.5v when turning the motor. When I contacted the controller supplier they informed my I have a 'Single hall motor' and recommended that I need either a 'special' controller or a no hall controller. Could anyone elaborate on this information please?

thanks

The motor must have a single hall sensor as a speed signal for your LCD. The motor operation itself is sensorless. Therefore, you need a sensorless controller or a dual mode (sensor/sensorless) one.

Arr I see Thanks dv8

Finally up and running again. Photos to follow... New No hall controller which works without Pas which is a bonus although the power select doesn't seem to make any difference not that I want to use any less power.
Happy with current set up for gaining experience with battery life as well as general ebike running maintenance which is good experience for a ebike first. Could anybody recommend a suitable lubricant for the nylon gears in a bafang brushless motor?

Domino, I have the same set up on a Synergie bike but this outfit has gone awol!! I replaced battery and wired up contoller but when I turn on the key with contoller connected the output goes dead but when I disconnect contoller the battery has full power IE 41V do you think this suggests a knackered contoller, I opened it up and the PCs looks clean, no scorch marks or bulging resisters etc?

As you were soldier! Found diagnostic sheet and found MOSFET burnt out! First problem sorted, now to either replace component or control box!!!!! Decision decision?