controller differences?

B

berge06

10 mW
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
21
Hi
Just a quick question.
A so called 500w controller vs a 250w controller. Is There a difference?

I was "stupid" enough to buy a 24v 250w kit. Its too slow for me so I have overvolted a little. Then I saw that there are kits with different power rating in the same voltage and motor.

Maybe a 500w controller in the same voltage would give me some more speed and power?

Well power will always be equal to voltage x amps. So I kind of answered my own question.

A different controller in the same voltage would probably just give more torque or am I wrong?
 
Volts determin speed.
Give us some info on your kit and donor bike.
Pics would be good.
 
spend a bit extra and get a programmable controller. Then you can play around with it (or ask for recommended settings here) and you won't have to keep swapping parts.

Lyen makes then here on the forum or EM3EV or ebikes.ca have them.

I played around with the cheap Chinese controllers but got sick of trying to find the right one and had spent around the same amount as a quality programmable controller and still hadn't gotten it right.

email Paul at EM3EV and he is usually very good at helping you select the right one. If you get one from EM3EV, it is worth the few extra $$$ to get the programming cable and the Cycle Analyst cable.

If you have an android device, you can use the Python app to run XPD on your phone or a tablet and make adjustments on the fly. I can't help you with the particulars of how to get that done. My brother has master's degrees in electrical engineering, electronics engineering and programming so he is the smart one in the family and did it for me on a $49.00 7 inch tablet I bought from Walmart. But there are some seriously smart people here so I am sure one of them has done the same thing.
 
Ch00paKabrA said:
spend a bit extra and get a programmable controller. Then you can play around with it (or ask for recommended settings here) and you won't have to keep swapping parts.

Lyen makes then here on the forum or EM3EV or ebikes.ca have them.

I played around with the cheap Chinese controllers but got sick of trying to find the right one and had spent around the same amount as a quality programmable controller and still hadn't gotten it right.

email Paul at EM3EV and he is usually very good at helping you select the right one. If you get one from EM3EV, it is worth the few extra $$$ to get the programming cable and the Cycle Analyst cable.

If you have an android device, you can use the Python app to run XPD on your phone or a tablet and make adjustments on the fly. I can't help you with the particulars of how to get that done. My brother has master's degrees in electrical engineering, electronics engineering and programming so he is the smart one in the family and did it for me on a $49.00 7 inch tablet I bought from Walmart. But there are some seriously smart people here so I am sure one of them has done the same thing.
Click to expand...

Good advice. Programmability, little extra "robustness" and quality semiconductors make a helluva difference over the long run. Initially, it may seem as if there's a large premium in cost but remember you'll be ready for future upgrades, learn more and better enjoy your eBike experience every time you ride it.
 
A 500W controller is rated to run forever at 500W. A 250W run at 500W continuous will burn up sooner or later, and likely will have a lower max amp rating. So yes, there's a big difference.
 
Well
I thought I had a bafang 250w 24v but I am not sure, might be a cute.
It's a cheap ebaykit from a selller named V-power. SIlver ALU hubmotor with no color, kind of polished.
The controller is also from this kit and is marked SYK-24-25w, output 250w and voltage1.1-4.1v.

This is the kit I think.
http://www.vpower.hk/product.php?id=29

At the moment I am using 2 x12v 12ah sla batteries.
But I am in the long prosess of building a batterypack form old laptop cells.

Will a pack of 6s6p of 2000mah amp 18650s be a betther soulution.
Or shold i go for 7-8 s for more speed?
 
6S won't be enough. 7S would be the equivalent to your SLAs. 8S would be better. Your controller should be able to go as high as 10S, which will give a lot more power and speed.

You should stick to at least 6P when using recycled laptop cells because they're often a bit saggy.

Don't forget that you need to monitor the discharge if you don't use a BMS. Your controller will have the correct cut-off voltage with 7S. With anything else, you need a voltmeter and/or lipo alarms.
 
Thanks for all your good info guys

My original plan was to make 4s and 3s packs so I could experiment a little 6s, 7s, 8s ,9s perhaps.
And use one of those battery alarms for now. Is this a ok soulution.

Yes and I am considering a programmmable controller. Even if it is a little expensive I could use on my next build, and "share" the costs.

Havent had the time to tinker to much, looks like I have to get soem more cells too, but wont know for sure until I am finished testing them all.

I have a imax b6, and was planning to use a pc power supply for 12v. can I just group all the 12v wires and earth wires and make 12v output connesctors on it?
 
The PC power supplies won't give power until a sensing wire is grounded. You have to join the grey to an orange and then put a switch between green and a black to switch it on/off. Bunch the remaining blacks together and the yellow for your 12v.
 
Yes I know about the joining of wires to get it to turn on.
I also have seen people using a restistor(load) to make it 12v continous. Is this nessesary?
 
Thanks guys!

Sorry for the delay, have been busy.

Any thoughts about running only battery buzzer as low voltage alarm?

Do you see any problems with useing the imax b6 charger to charge single cells in batteryholders in for example 6s with balancing leads to make the battery "testing prosess" before soldering up a pack.

should start a new thread about batteries.....
 
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