Battery not powering up.

athflying

100 mW
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Messages
44
I have the following

Q100H 36V350W Front E-Bike Motor Wheel 260
48V10Ah Bottle-09 E-Bike Battery Pack Black

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-batter...html?search_query=48V10Ah+Bottle-09&results=3

I haven't been riding much, but every few weeks I take the bike out for a 5-10 minute run and charge the battery just to make sure it doesn't sit. Well it has been 4-6 weeks since I last used it, but went to go for a ride today and I get no light when I push the power button on the side of the battery and the LCD never powered on. There is a battery status button that lit up and says about 3/4 full. I checked the fuse on the side of battery and it was ok too. I charged it and once charger reported fully charged, tried again and no luck. Took battery off and re-installed, still no light or power.

It's a sealed unit so not sure what else to check. I have made no changes to the bike or the wiring, it is always garaged, and hasn't moved since I put it away working.

Thanks for any suggestions on how to get it back to life.
 
Actually the case can be opened.
So the LCS-3 display does not light up?
It is difficult to ck Voltage in/out of the display, but you could "jump the pins" to defeat the display for testing(Look at the BMS Battery download for SLCD-3).
Given the display is good, you would need to open the case and ck values at the bms/controller.
For now, you might want to wait til D8veh chimes in(could be a while, he is in the UK).
I wouldn't fret too much, Jack just sent me a free replacement battery.
It was even freight free because I was placing a fairly large order anyway.
Worst scenario, they would probably send you a replacement for the freight cost and you will have an extra to play with :D
 
No, there seems to be no power from the battery. The display does not turn on and the blue power light does not light up when pushed. There is a battery status button that seems to accurately reflect the charge of the battery when pushed and when I plug the charger in to the battery it lights up without plugging in to the wall. I suspect that button/switch has gone bad and just keeping power from getting to the lcd and motor.

I figured the battery case came apart but before I tear anything apart wanted to make sure I am not overlooking something simple. I will try and do some testing with a multj meter
 
My guess would be figure out where the voltage stops to determine what failed where. Really just hope it's something that's a quick fix.
 
If the light on the side doesn't come on, the battery is still switched off. The switch switches the BMS on, so it looks like you'll have to open the case to find out what's wrong.

It's easy to open the case. You just take the screws out. The nuts tend to stickbinvthe other side. It's best to push them all out using the screws so that you don't losecany while inspecting the battery. It's a bit fiddly to get the sprung lever/handle back, but you don't really need it incase you lose patience with it.

Once open, you need to check the wires to the switch.
 
I finally have a little spare time and took case apart. Inside, visually I can't see anything wrong. All connections look solid, no loose or dangling wire. Everything going to the switch looks fine.

What is my next step?? If it turns out the switch went bad, can it be safely bypassed or must it be replaced?? The battery isn't a year old, but I have no idea what kind of warranty BMS offers.
 
So before I break anything or make a bad situation worse. Where do I jump the switch at??

I am getting 3.72 volts at the connector that goes to the motor. I jumped what I thought was the switch at the circuit board (unplugged the white connector and jumped the now exposed wiring in the housing), but didn't seem to make any difference.
th_IMG_20150507_103817.jpg


This is where it also connects to the controller board, but I figured this was to power the switch LED.
th_IMG_20150507_103833.jpg


th_IMG_20150507_103840.jpg

th_IMG_20150507_103852.jpg
 
put the battery on the charger and measure the cell voltages while charging. measure while charging. measure when it gets to the full charge point and the light turns green. do not remove from the charger and then measure, measure while charging.
 
Just now getting back around to this. Haven't touched since last post. I am getting 3.65V at the battery terminal to motor. Started charging and fairly quickly got to 4V. Will check again once charged.
 
Ok....didn't even charge 10 minutes, green light kicked on and fan on charger off. Battery reading just over 4V. So does this mean the charger is trash??
 
Checked the connector where the charger connects to the circuit board and it reads 53V. So I think it's not the charger but the BMS itself or the switch that activates the battery.
 
Because it reads 53V where the charger connects but only 4V out to the bike. Also the button no longer lights up when the battery is switched on.
 
Did you try jumping the switch? 4v at the terminals means that the BMS is switched off. You have to switch it on.
 
I was going to, but knowing so little about the internals I didn't want to break anything and make it worse.

What is the best way to do so?

If I find out the switch is bad, then what?
 
Is your BMS the same as this one?

https://bmsbattery.com/706-thickbox_default/10s-13s-20a-lithium-bms-for-bottle-battery-09-bms-pcm.jpg

The switch wires go to a connector that plugs in to the 2-pin socket that's marked "short circuit". To test it, unplug the switch wires and short the two pins with a screwdriver or something. It's only low current so there won't be any sparks. You have to keep the pins shorted while you test the output voltage, which would be easier with a helper.
 
Mine looks the same. I tried that before and no change, but not fully knowing what I was doing, didn't go any further. Just tried again and no change in voltage with that jumped.
 
What are my options at this point?? If nothing happens when the switch is jumped, assuming something in the BMS is bad??

I would rather not spend another $3-400 if just the board is bad.
 
Time to mesure the cell voltages. Look at the photo above. Put your black probe on B- and measure each pin B1 to B13.
 
i finally looked at that jpg of the BMS. you said yours is identical?

you have to post up a good picture of your BMS so we can compare it to the jpg.

the jpg shows a fuse in the charging lead on that BMS so post up a picture of your BMS before going fsrther, post up both sides.

if you have a voltmeter check continuity of that fuse. it is the square flat thing attached to the source leg of the output mosfet.
 
So I had a baby and this project went to the back burner. I would like to get my bike back up and running. Is the battery toast from sitting so long?
 
I'm guessing the keyswitch/relay is burned out. They are under-rated in the BMSbattery enclosures and liable to fry. I took mine out and wired around it. I'm using a big circuit breaker now outside the pack for on/off which isn't the best...better to use XT90s spark arresting (comes from Lunacycle with pigtails, pre-soldered) connector as an on-off switch.

See if you have full pack voltage "before" the relay...they are only 12V relays,perhaps 24V if I recall - its been a while since I had to remove my relays!
 
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