heavy duty Key switch+Fuse holder?
- Thread starter Noamsal
- Start date
r3volved
100 kW
I use this for that exact setup: http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/midnite/cipr1/stfubr1/pamodccibr.html
bowlofsalad
100 kW
Noamsal said:
Your account lacks a location.
What exactly are you connecting this key switch to?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IV6GSGK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IV6GSGK&linkCode=as2&tag=xbnijgbr-20&linkId=BQFJ4ONR4EMZJQE3 Maybe this will do?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IAARVC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007IAARVC&linkCode=as2&tag=xbnijgbr-20&linkId=T65Z2YH4AEKKQ5EZ
first of all i'm from israel, so no shipping from amazon
i usually buy from ebay
and right now only the ingnition wire on the controller and the positive anode goes to the switch, but i'm pretty sure to switch controllers in the future so maybe i'll have to put the switch only on the anode
on the BMS its a problem, the battery is in a bag that can come off of the bike and the switch should be on the bike.
also i need a fuse holder, which is for sure going to run through the anode, so needs to be buffy
i thought maybe about a motorcycle kill-switch? they are rated for 24v 400a, but i'm not sure they will hold 72v
SO I ORDERED, i'll take the risk. thats the kill-switch -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Isolator-Cut-Off-Power-Kill-Switch-400A-24V-Key-Waterproof-Cover-/151449797240?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item23431c8278&vxp=mtr
Also i ordered a fuse holder for 2 fuses (charge\discharge) with 4 fuses rated for 70a. let's hope its worth something...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121485642292?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
i usually buy from ebay
and right now only the ingnition wire on the controller and the positive anode goes to the switch, but i'm pretty sure to switch controllers in the future so maybe i'll have to put the switch only on the anode
on the BMS its a problem, the battery is in a bag that can come off of the bike and the switch should be on the bike.
also i need a fuse holder, which is for sure going to run through the anode, so needs to be buffy
i thought maybe about a motorcycle kill-switch? they are rated for 24v 400a, but i'm not sure they will hold 72v
SO I ORDERED, i'll take the risk. thats the kill-switch -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Isolator-Cut-Off-Power-Kill-Switch-400A-24V-Key-Waterproof-Cover-/151449797240?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item23431c8278&vxp=mtr
Also i ordered a fuse holder for 2 fuses (charge\discharge) with 4 fuses rated for 70a. let's hope its worth something...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121485642292?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
r3volved
100 kW
With a breaker on your main line, you're effectively switching and fusing at the same time. If you want a theft deterrent key 'ignition', then you just need a small key wired to the ignition line.
My 48V bike had an inline fuse to a big red key on my main line and a kill-toggle-switch on my ignition line. It still works ok but the key doesn't switch main power as well as my breaker does and it's a really big and bulky key to carry - pain in the ass.
That was just one of my learned lessons from my first build.
My 48V bike had an inline fuse to a big red key on my main line and a kill-toggle-switch on my ignition line. It still works ok but the key doesn't switch main power as well as my breaker does and it's a really big and bulky key to carry - pain in the ass.
That was just one of my learned lessons from my first build.
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