Dual motor control with one motor

so I have a programmable 25amp golden motor motor controller (well i have 2) one of them works decently, except for the bad acceleration (they both have bad acceleration over all) one controller gives me 25 amps (this controller performs better) the other one gives 22 amps (its programmed for 25amps and I've tried programming it for 30) The problem that i tend to have is i get stuck on hills at times, so far I've been luck not to stall out while I wait for the motor controller to start giving me some higher amps. My battery is a 48v 30Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate With 40amp continuous and 60amp for 3 seconds. The controller that can do the 25amps, works well but there have been a few times where I'm in stop and go city traffic and hills and the controller get really warm, I've had the overheat protection kick in a few time too. I'm planning on upgrading the controller but for right now The funds are unavailable. as a possible solution I was wondering if It would be possible to use 2 controllers (programmed for 15amps each) with one throttle. The controllers offer PAS, which I'm not using. The amperage data I get if from the cycle Analyst 2.3 with a 45amp molded shunt. The motor Is a 1500watt hub motor, I normally do use the 30 amps, but I like the extra power for some of the bigger hills in my area, on average I'm driving no more than 15amps I've attached a photo of my bike, it's a work in progress. The other image that I've attached is the way I was thinking that 2 controllers could be attached to one throttle and one motor. I'm curious if anyone has tried with (success or not) or if anyone know if this could work. the controller has 6 FETs inside, The other thing I was considering is if I took the 6 FETs out of the other controller and solder the in the same position on the one controller, would that work? any thoughts or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. (oh and this is my first post so if their is something I should do differently let me know)

I am not going to say your proposal is impossible, but I imagine it would require a lot of special engineering beyond the scope of your needs. I highly doubt that as things are, it would work out, but I really don't know. If you can't get the larger capacity controller shortly, consider these ideas;

So perhaps the biggest idea here is to decrease your weight and increase your pedaling. I don't know what you can do to decrease your gross weight, but even just dragging an extra 10 pounds up a hill can play a fairly large role in all of this.

Make sure the air pathway is good for your controller. Don't have your controller hidden behind anything or in a bag. When looking straight at your trike, can you see the controller? If not, change that. Make sure the fet side is facing forward and completely outside your envelope of airflow.

Create an air scoop around the controller. This will increase the pressure and velocity of the air flowing over the controller.

Make sure the thermal interface material is good. Look into an ideal thermal interface material (also known as TIM) http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=70323, maybe simply replace the original stuff with something better. This also includes making sure the thermal pathway is good. Clean the outside of the controller housing, which is the heatsink itself, make sure the fets have good thermal conduction all the way through. I really don't know if the thermal interface material is good or not, for all I know they put a glob of mayo between the fets and the heatsink, but if you aren't comfortable with changing the TIM obviously I don't recommend cracking open the controller to poke around. I mean, personally I am all for exploration, I'd rather break something in the effort of learning (usually) instead of tip toeing around, but that isn't for everyone (and probably not you in this circumstance with limited funds).

Consider adding a fan to the controller housing. This will keep the controllers average temperature down, especially in situations involving hills. Your controller will start off cooler from each stop and so on.

So to summarize, the cheap and immediate solutions that might help a lot with keeping your controller cool is to make sure the controller and the fets are in the path of air, make a air catch or scoop, and make sure the outside of the controller housing is plenty clean. Decrease gross weight, increase pedaling.

Personally, I'd ditch those rear view mirrors. Aerodynamics play a pretty massive role in power consumption, even when climbing hills. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VTQNVO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001VTQNVO&linkCode=as2&tag=xbnijgbr-20&linkId=OZWXBJL3GCSZHH4E I use this as my rear view mirror, it's seriously fantastic and obviously has a radically smaller frontal profile (not to mention probably weighs many times less). I know this item costs money, maybe money you don't have, but I'd consider getting it in the future on it's merits all the same. Better aerodynamics and less weight mean more range.

Well, I'll sure say it's impossible enough to call it that.

Get a cheap 30- 40 amps controller from ebay. Look for the one with self learning, so it's easy to make it run your motor.

Till then, solder the shunt on one of your controllers.

Get more air flow on them too, maybe add some more heat sink to them somehow too.

Thanks for the suggestions and opinions. as for the mirrors, i use them as they minimize my blind spots, and i get lots of people that drive around me with out any regard for cyclists, so I like to be prepared if they decide to do something dumb. I also have a canopy that I'm working on, which will increase aerodynamics, and it also encloses the mirrors too.

The controller has been a tricky thing to mount, but I image that I don't have it in the best spot. I took on of them apart (it had triangle safety screws that I had to drill out), inside it has 2 main big capacitors, rated at 63v 470 microfarads , there are a few other smaller capacitors. The FETS are IRF1407 and there are 6 of them. On this particular controller (which works decently) the controller was getting warm enough that it melted the solder for the negative battery terminal, and then became completely disconnected - so I'm going to solder in some thick wire instead.

I guess for no I'm gonna stick with what I have. The controller I want to buy is Golden Motor vector controller ($320 CAN), this controller can do 48,72,96v and its a 3kw controller. It's also a sine wave controller. I plan to upgrade my battery and motor one day so having this controller would be nice. and its also programmable , the options it gives you is amazing. has anyone used sine wave before? (LINK: http://www.goldenmotor.ca/products/VECTOR-200-Series-48-Volt-Brushless-Motor-Controller.html )
I attached some images of the motor controller - The camera I normally use doesn't work, so the photo quality isn't the best. The photo's so the top, bottom of the controller, as well as the heat sink compound and the back side of the heat sink

tonystark20 said:

The controller I want to buy is Golden Motor vector controller ($320 CAN), this controller can do 48,72,96v and its a 3kw controller. It's also a sine wave controller. I plan to upgrade my battery and motor one day so having this controller would be nice. and its also programmable , the options it gives you is amazing. has anyone used sine wave before? (LINK: http://www.goldenmotor.ca/products/VECTOR-200-Series-48-Volt-Brushless-Motor-Controller.html )

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So far as I know, sine wave, sinusoidal commutation, vector control and field oriented control (FOC) are all basically saying the same thing. There are other controllers that do FOC, adaptto, sabvoton, and ASI are some examples, I mention this primarily because maybe you'd be interested in checking out other options since you haven't actually bought anything yet. Plenty on this forum do and have used FOC setups. The setup involving FOC that impresses me most comes from adaptto, but that primarily relates to the display and the BMS, I've never used an adaptto setup though. However, as far as features and options go, an adaptto seems to have that in spades. I have a FOC controller, a BAC500+ from ebikes.ca, primarily I can say that the motors I've ran with it produce far less sound while doing so, which is nice.