How much better do you think this throttle is than a 1/2 twist mounted on the left hand side (i.e. allows me to do the up/down gears on the right side whilst adjusting throttle on the left, albeit the throttle has to twist away from me rather than towards me)?
Don't you accidentally hit the throttle when slamming on the back brake hard?
Patriot wrote:This is the same throttle I am considering as well. I already have a 1kohm resistor inline with the signal lead going to the controller, so hopefully I wouldn't have to do very much.
I found the same throttle at http://www.electricvehiclesusa.com/prod ... z31686.htm
They say theirs is already 0-5k, so I would assume no manipulation is needed.
$25 seems like a good investment to stop the wrist pain from using a thumbie at a weird angle. The thumbie is turning out NOT to be as egronomic as I had hoped.
ekline309 wrote:in your diagram you show that the red wire from the throttle is not used, but in a corresponding goldenmotor thread you say all three wires are connected.
Anything you do to generate a 1V - 4V intput signal on the throttle line will work fine. But be aware that with the eZee controllers, a voltage greater than about 4.5V is considered a fault condition (as happens if the gnd pin of the throttle is disconnected) and will result in no output power and a flash error code on the controller.
callagga wrote:Hi Russell,
So is this correct to say (plus some questions)
* All throttles work on the concept of providing a variable voltages back to the controller, therefore all one needs to do is mimic this behaviour when working out resister values?
* I have a Crystalyte throttle for an eZee kit (http://ebikes.ca/store/store_ezee.php) so irrespective of how the current throttle works your approach should be ok for the eZee kit?
* If you put no resistors in at all and the voltage sent back is say 0V - Supply Voltage, could this damage the controller do you think? In other words how sensitive do you think controllers would be to getting things wrong here (e.g. resister values)? (I would get there shouldn't be an issue)
* You don't talk about current (A) in your thread - are there any current limits that a controller would be sensitive to? Like you could get the same voltages buy buying a potentiometer & resisters that were 1/10 of the value, or 10x the values no? You would still get the same ratios however the currently flowing would change. Did you measure the current flow on your original bike, or just assume that if scooter throttles come in this 3.3kOhm range this is normal and work from here?
bikeelectric wrote:I am considering trying this lever type - I am starting to think the raw spot on my thumb is from my thumb throttle !
I found the same thing for less than half the price here
Note : I was going to order from here but didn't see a https secure link for credit card info so I am holding off on it.
callagga wrote:Russell - BTW does the 3 pin connector at the end fit out-of-the-box the ebike controllers? i.e. are they all standard? In other words would I have to order a connector separately?
BTW - One place that does ship to my location is http://www.partsforscooters.com/111-46. These guys should be as good as any no?
Russell wrote:the TRIGGER throttle.
To me a full twist throttle is at home on a motorcycle where the rider is stationary and usually in an upright or even laid back position but they don't seem to be the best solution on an ebike which someone is actually pedaling and may even be getting out of the saddle from time to time. The full twist throttle that came with my kit is hard plastic and I know it would be a real pain holding it in position for any length of time. I ordered a left hand thumb throttle but then I noticed many active vehicles where the rider may be getting jostled such as ATV's and jet skis often have trigger throttles. Of course those are cable actuated but I did find a trigger throttle used on an electric scooter to try.
Do you think one could modify that throttle to fit 15/16" diameter bars rather than 7/8"? One nice thing I see is that the throttle mechanism is separated from the mounting hardware (unlike thumb or twist, where it actually surrounds the mounting hardware. As you pointed out, curved handlebars are rare, and one problem we have is an incompatible diameter for standard throttles.
I take back what I said a few posts ago, I ordered my latest throttle from here a couple days ago;
instead of here;
Joepostal wrote:The plastic bits on this throttle are huge, the mounting could potentially be cut in half to 15mm, 7 on each side and it still would work fine. The resistance is high and the full sweep causes it to have to be mounted right next to the grip.
i.e. You can't mount it on the other side of a brake lever since it would hit the mount for the brake and you would not hit full throttle. ...
... ver use it.
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