eCruiser - New Build - Your Comments Please

[RWP]

A new eCruiser project...

Going for a full suspension cruiser look. 2-80x motors, 2-sensored controllers, 72v-20+Ah.

I measured 2 bikes - an Electra Rally Sport and a Trek Pure - both have a similar feet forward -
flat foot technology - and not surprisingly have similar measurements at all the tube joins.

The rims are 20 bike rims from Matt's rim group sale and will probably fit these Pirelli moped tires:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/5/ ... -Tire.aspx
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/5/ ... -Tire.aspx

The board at the bottom of the pic is approximately the ground.

The top of the seat tube is about 27" above the ground - same as the bikes above.
The top of the head tube is about 32" - again same as the bikes above.

The wheel base is about 52". The original wheel base for the Electra and Pure is about 48"

The forks will be Girvin forks - as shown. I will look for a mono shock for the rear.

It's a really long swing arm - might have to add another triangle to support it - but I like this space
for the motor(s).

Going for 72v and 20Ah or more capacity. So what you see in terms of batteries are half for this bike. The other half
will go on the other side of a spine that I will build in the center of the frame. Ignore the HV160 - will go with censored controller (s).

And it's all up for grabs...what do you think?

Roy

[farmkid4]

looks quite nice

IMHO you will want to triangulate from the rear shock mount to the swing arm would be a lot of strain on it I would think.

but i'm sure it will be as well built as your previous bikes!

[RWP]

looks quite nice
IMHO you will want to triangulate from the rear shock mount to the swing arm would be a lot of strain on it I would think.
but i'm sure it will be as well built as your previous bikes!

Thanks for your kind words.
Triangulation @ swing arm - good point.

[MattyCiii]

Nice!
Love that V4 drive in all black, and that Girvin girder fork is going to look the part. I'll be eager to hear how it performs at speed & on the bumps.

*subscribed*

[MattyCiii]

Also,
I've had good luck (but only weeks - not months or years - of experience) with the HV-160 driving power through a Recumpense 5:1 reduction V4 drive to 20" rear wheels. Durable, reliable, never any jitter on startup. If you can keep the volts under 50 I'd suggest sticking with the HV-160, at least at first to see how it goes.

[RWP]

Nice! Love that V4 drive in all black, and that Girvin girder fork is going to look the part. I'll be eager to hear how it performs at speed & on the bumps. *subscribed*

Thanks MattyCiii,
While the pulleys come from recompence I made the tube mount and motor plate in house.
After several requests recompence did not seem to be interested in making a motor plate for the Turnigy 80x motors for me.

Also, I've had good luck (but only weeks - not months or years - of experience) with the HV-160 driving power through a Recumpense 5:1 reduction V4 drive to 20" rear wheels. Durable, reliable, never any jitter on startup. If you can keep the volts under 50 I'd suggest sticking with the HV-160, at least at first to see how it goes.

Glad you are having good luck with the HV-160. My current ride is also working OK with this controller.
My long term goals are to reduce amperage as much as possible and going to higher voltage will move me in that direction.

[Thud]

Looking foward to seeing how it comes out for you RWP.
Love the lines & you know I am a fan of the big outrunners.
as for motor plates....I would think a simple adapter plate would let you bolt a turnigy onto the Astro's bolt pattern....extending the shaft is childs play but I am sure you have it all under controll.

[RWP]

I would think a simple adapter plate would let you bolt a turnigy onto the Astro's bolt pattern.

Mine is beefier
And I have this 3D version of a V-twin - 2 motor job...

[RWP]

I would like to know what you think about the long swing arm.
Thanks.

[Thud]

Ive heard size doesn't matter.......but seriously, as long as it is ridgid enough to put the forces into the shock & not let the wheel deflect in odd directions you should be fine.

[www.recumbents.com]

Not sure if you are planning this already, but you should mount the drive unit to the rear swing arm, not the main frame. Otherwise the drive chain changes length every time you go over a bump.

-Warren.

[RWP]

Ive heard size doesn't matter.......but seriously, as long as it is ridgid enough to put the forces into the shock & not let the wheel deflect in odd directions you should be fine.

Thanks T!

Not sure if you are planning this already, but you should mount the drive unit to the rear swing arm, not the main frame. Otherwise the drive chain changes length every time you go over a bump. -Warren.

Thanks Warren.

I am going to try to mount the motor on the back side of the down tube (to take advantage of the available space and leave space in the triangle for batteries and electronics) and make the motor final drive concentric with the swing arm pivot, thus eliminating chain growth.

I am thinking, but not sure, about driving the motor on the left side to maintain a more normal human power system on the right.

OK, now it gets more complicated...if I use a Turnigy motor I will want to use the right side gears, but if I use a more powerful motor I like the left drive option.

As far as I know, motorcycles don't have an issue with chain growth - true the final drive sprocket is just behind the swing arm pivot, making the SA radius smaller than the sprocket center to axle center.

Am I missing something here?

[Thud]

Hi Roy,
What motor is more powerfull than a Turnigy?

you will definatly want to keep the drive sproket as close to the pivot point as possible. Depending on the amount of travel, the isssue is exponentialy more difficult. Look at the ellegant chain guides on a modern motocross motorcycle. These have to contend with about an inch of play to allow the drive line to function corectly.

but if you looking at 4" if sespension movement, it will be easer to contend with for sure. Add that it is an on-road cruiser & its may be a mute point.

lets see some some choppin & welding!
catch you later, T