Kona Stinky pedalless GNG Big block

Higher voltage draws less amps at any given time. That is easier to push through smaller wires and less strain on your batteries, controller and motor to a given point. 12s at 50 amps is the same as 24s at 25 amps. In general the higher the voltage the more efficient the setup meaning less loss from heat. Pushing to many amps through too small of a wire will cause heat build up a line losses.

I'm going to run the same set up as you and 24s lipo.

Tom

just saw the Mavic EX325 is also cheap.. i'll try that one for my next wheel, thx for posting!

If you choose the 4s Hardcase Packs, they are the cheapest and best ones you can buy for the money. You can plug 3 packs together for 12s or 4 for 16s. 20s will lead to high loss with this motor I guess, something you should check out yourself using a CA or similar device. 24s is definitely in the high eddy current loss region, we already discussed that in the GNG thread.

litespeed said:

Higher voltage draws less amps at any given time. That is easier to push through smaller wires and less strain on your batteries, controller and motor to a given point. 12s at 50 amps is the same as 24s at 25 amps. In general the higher the voltage the more efficient the setup meaning less loss from heat. Pushing to many amps through too small of a wire will cause heat build up a line losses.

I'm going to run the same set up as you and 24s lipo.

Tom

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That is Exactly how I used to think! But when I talked to lightningrods about this, everything changed... At first when we are doubling the armature speed we can't say it's easy on the motor especially when we want big torque of it aswell, other way there's no point of using big motor.
I wanted to run this motor with 24s also but then we are talking twice the voltage what the motor is meant to be run at and it really seems there will be big losses at those levels too. Is there even any sense to put 100 volts to a big motor? It probably put 10kw peaks out (and melt ). I think there is cheaper ways to get killed. :wink: Of cource if you want that power go for it! I really like to see what this motor is capable of! For me it's just too expensive and I guess I really don't need 13hp and 300nm on a 30kg bike.
It is true that big amps on small wire will not make a good result but then we can use bigger and better wires. Strain on batteries is true aswell but since we are using lipos it won't be a big deal, because if I hit 100A peak amp and I got 10Ah lipo pack with constant discharge of 20c it could deliver 200 amps without a prob.
I think the whole point of the twice as heavy big block compared to the little gng motor is that it will handle far more amps without saturating and converting that power to heat. It will run cooler at any amperage and load.

I think the whole point of the twice as heavy big block compared to the little gng motor is that it will handle far more amps without saturating and converting that power to heat. It will run cooler at any amperage and load.

Click to expand...

Yep. So beef up phase wires and go for bigger amps at 16s or 20s. That's the way to get the most out of it without killing it

Another Kona Stinky mid-drive build, excellent.
Watching with interest as I just scored a Kona Stinky Dee-Lux for $260 and am wanting to re-build it up as a mid-drive too.

Welcome to the club jateureka Stinky seems to be kinda popular on these mid-drive builds I see and no wonder, it's a great bike after all.

I'm still waiting for goods to arrive, it's kinda frustrating... I've ordered the motor three weeks ago, the rear hub has been on it's way since 28.10 and last sunday I ordered eight 4s 5Ah hardcase packs and dual 8s charger (2x150w). So at this point I'm kinda stuck here because I don't wanna order rest of parts and spend more funds before I get these and make sure they work...

I don't get the Kona until 29 Nov, but I can't start work on it until I finish the beach cruiser project...
I was thinking mid drive ala crossbreak style for the Kona

Long time no chat, lets cut the crap here's the video.
[youtube]XfwJNCMmsuo[/youtube]

So is this 100v and how many amps? What ratio is that front and rear? I'm still waiting for my big block.

Looked pretty darn good so far.

Tom

litespeed said:

So is this 100v and how many amps? What ratio is that front and rear? I'm still waiting for my big block.

Looked pretty darn good so far.

Tom

Click to expand...

Thanks Tom! It was programmed running 66V and 65A battery and 100A phase at that second test (first test were stock values 45A battery and 90A phase), I don't have the cycle analyst yet so I don't know how much it was in real life. Gear ratio is 12t front 77t rear.

Latest video
[youtube]yrl6Tvj31Hc[/youtube]

Cool video.
Not easy to make an interesting e-bike video alone.
Smart move to use all the different camera angels.

Hello Dirty. I am new round here and been familiarising myself. You have a very nice build, very similar to what I have been thinking about for riding in the forest near me. Can you please post some more info and pics about the design of your bike and how you mounted the motor and built the battery box etc. Excellent video also, that looks like a wonderful place to ride your bike.
Regards

Moi moi Dirty, that is a nice build. I have some friends in Espoo and think Finland would be a nice place for that bike this time of year.

Well done!

Hi everyone, I'm glad you liked the video!

Moi Samd and thanks, Finland really is a nice place this time of year, sun is shining and this week we hit over 30°C (it's rare over here) btw. I live in Lohja which is 45km from Espoo

tylerwatts welcome aboard! The Battery box is made from 1mm thick aluminium sheet and welded together, the motor mount is made from 2mm steel sheet and the design is aproxx. the same as the gng kit has. Btw. I really recommend a controller with a torque based throttle as the speed based throttle is really hard to control with this kind of torque.