bmc 2000 watt and crystalyte controller?

topcat1112

1 µW
Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
4
Does anyone have any exp. with these? Thinking about getting the combo from The Super Kids. How do they preform @ 72 volts/55a ? That's almost double the rated watts. What's the life span when running it like that? Would a gear reduction of 5:1 be enough when running a Kenda Flames 20X3 tire ? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!


Thanks,

Thomas
 
From what i have read they are good motors. However they seem to be unavailable I have been searching everywhere for the 1500 and 2000 watt motors.

Let us know if you find any source Including used ones. From some reading I suspect they have been used in lawn mowers, floor scrubbers and man lifts, the question is which one's

Good luck
 
Not sure what motor your talking about as the 1500w but if it's this one I'm not sure it should really be rated at 1500w. I have one of these motor and intend to install this winter. The guy I bought it from claims to have sold SuperKid the first set of these motors. In any case he rated it at 1000w when he sold it to me. He said to his knowedge it had never been put on a dyno to know it's true output. As we know power consumpsion is not an indication of true output power.

Based on what has been written here on ES they are good motors and yes I have the drawing that calls it a lawn mower motor. I can only assume there was no controller used when mounted to a lawn mower though. Would make for one expensive mower. But it would explain the extra long shaft on it.

Remember when gearing these it runs over 100RPM per volt. I'm wondering if it runs more eff at lower voltages. If you notice the RPM per volt goes down as the voltage goes up.

Bob
 
Bob,
According to thesuperkids.com , the bmc 2000 watt motor has a dia. of 7.125" , and a 7/8" shaft , while the 1500 watt has a dia. of 5.75" , and a 11/16"-or 17mm. shaft , while the 1000 watt is approx. 5" in dia. , with a 1/2"or 12mm. shaft.
As for the rpm/v , I think I'll be running it at 36 volts for 4000 rpm , I'm not really sure about the gearing . I plan on buying an 11 tooth motor sprocket , and a 55t , a 66t , and a 77t wheel sprocket . just to do some testing with . Not real sure if it has enough power to pull the 5:1 . Was hoping that someone out there has one of these that might be able to give me some feedback .
Thanks though , hope that info might help you find out which one you have . The shaft on the 1500 and the 2000 are both 2.25" in length.

Torqueon,
Try the superkids.com . They have a kit for both with a programable Crystalyte controller . Or the motor by it's self. Go to the scooter parts then electric motors. hope this was helpful .

Thomas
 
Not too many people have actually gotten their hands on one of those. Tim Obrien tested both of them as I recall, but I haven't seen him around for a long time. It's a scaled up version of the 600W motor I have on my scooter. I can run mine waaay over the rating for short bursts and these larger motors will be the same. Running 48v on a 24v motor it's topping out around 6,000 rpm.

The biggest problem is getting a suitable controller. If they are selling the motor and controller as a set, this may be a good idea as it would assume they are properly matched.

On the most recent versions, I see they have moved the hall sensors which should eliminate the controller compatibility issue. I guess you'll find out if you get one. This would be a big improvement as it would allow using most common brushless controllers.

I'm not sure on the gearing, but I always like things more on the tractor side being in a hilly area. If geared too tall, the motor will run less efficiently.
 
Several of us have tried to source these in the last few months. Out of 3 of us that I know of that have emailed superkids, only one has had a reply. The reply was they are out of stock. There was no mention of when they will be back in stock. Myself and another member have emailed several times asking about availability with no replay.

If you find a source, let us all know. There are a couple of others on the forum that have used them and had good results.

Clay
 
magudaman got one from somewhere. You might ask him. As far as I know there are no retail vendors with stock. You may be able to score a "sample" directly from BMC if you can make them believe you are going to buy thousands of them.
 
I'm pretty sure magudaman said if you want to 100 or more you can get them at a reasonable price. Otherwise they are pretty expensive. I emailed BMC directly to see if they knew when there would be new stock, or if they had any other vendors. I never got a response from them either.Clay
 
its sad really, they looked like the ideal motor 1 step down from the monsters available from golden motor (like the one luke is currently using on his bike).
 
A side note to the controller that SupperKids is selling for this motor. They claim it to be a 72v 55a. But when I spoke to them they told me it was a 35a with a resistor pigtail hanging off the end that could be trimmed as needed to up the apms as high as 55a. If they do the trimming they charge the extra (sorry forgot the amount but I think it's $20 to $40). The controller also has a voltage selector on it (24v/36v). They recommend running this controller at a max 48v but said it can handle 72v but also indicated they didn't know how long it would last at that voltage. Especially if you were running the max 55a. All in all I think it's a 36v 35a controller with good parts. And because of the quality they decided to classify it as a 72v 55a controller. But I have to admit I think I have seen this controller elsewhere with a simular claim.

It's been a long time since I spoke to SupperKids but the last time I spoke to them (6 months ago) they said they were getting the motors in. Speaking to my source where I got it he indicated that BMC were Aholes to deal with and they had jumped the price on the motors * 2. And this is one of the main reasons for the out of stock problem along with a larg min order size.

Bob
 
I really was looking forward to trying this motor out. I have not been able to contact them either. Maybe I can find a couple E-lawnmowers to hack on e-bay or craig's list. I'll let you guys know if I find out anything.

Thomas
 
I suppose if any of us mortals want this motor, will have to figure out what products they where used in. The searches iv done suggest Tennent floor scrubbers JBL man lifts and lawnmowers. You can rule out craftsman, black & decker, ryobi and neuton mowers. The BMC site is worthless, and super kids are out of them

The question is what uses these motors, once known than you can hunt one down.
 
I discovered three mowers and a snow blower that use brush less motors

Ariens amp rider, model 916002 It claims to have a 4 hp motor for drive and two 1.7 hp motors for cutting

Ariens snow blower model 916003 it claims 4 hp

google will lead to parts etc.

Recharge mower, model gm-rm10 it claims 900 watt motors for cutting. the drive motor ??? Info and support is vague.

An interesting find while trolling the net. Hustler zeon, a zero turn riding mower, all brush less motors, 48 volt system.
The deck motors look identical to the BMC motor. replacement p/n 601157 Price $390 and up.
 
Just got the 1500 watt model from superkids. The thing is light! 5.5 lbs!!!

Now lets see how it does with short bursts over 7000 watt -)

Using a 12 tooth on the motor and a ....114 tooth (I know!) on the wheel. This is for my atv tired bike prototype.

I'll report on how it works!

--John
 
Can anyone help me figure out the wiring on this motor (actually the BMC 1500 from superkids). I'm a little confused.

There are the 3 thick pase wires....ok.

Then there is a 5 conducter lead:

Red
Brown
Green
Black
White
I assume these are the hall sensors?

Then there is a 2 conducter lead:
Purple
Black


??? I would think there would just be 3 phase wires, then 3 hall wires and a ground. So I'm a bit lost here.

--John

--John
 
I bought my 1500w motor from Tim Obrien and the controller from SupperKids. The motor and controller are completely wired to match. All the smaller wires you are speaking of are wired to one 8 poll plug (only 7 actually connected). This connector plugs into a matching connector on my controller. The ends of my plugs were wrapped with srink tubing so it's difficult to see what all the colors are. But the colors on the controller do not match perfectly to the colors of the motor. The controller also has the throttle halls (3 wire connector) and a 2 wire connector for the brake. The controller also has a set of slightly larger wires (color unknown) that are sealed off from use). Be careful if your controller has a directional switch on it. These motors can be reversed but not with that switch. Tim told me to disconnect it completely for safety. I know another person I spoke to last year damaged the controller by having this switch in the wrong position.

If you need more info and no one else comes forward I guess I could try cutting the srink tubes to get the color matches you need. But first lets be sure we are talking about the same controller and motor.

Bob
 
bob,

Im using a kelly....and the motor didnt come with connectors on it....

confused!

--john
 
johndjmix said:
bob,

Im using a kelly....and the motor didnt come with connectors on it....

confused!

--john

John,

I'm going riding with a friend later this morning and if I get time when I get back I'll try to see if I can ID the wire colors on the motor and where they are going. If possible I snap a few pics for you. As I said all my wires on both the motor and controller have connectors and there is a protective srink tube that holds the connector to the wire cable for added protection. So I can't actually see the individual wires very well. And to do so I would have to cut the srink tube which I don't think I can replace easily because the tube was installed on the wire loom before the connector was installed. Then everything was heat srunk together. I'll see if I have replacement tubing and if it will pull over the connector. If it does I'll cut the tubing open and take a pic of how it's wired. Of course that does not mean the Kelly is going to be the same but at least you'll have a better idea.

Bob
 
johndjmix said:
Then there is a 5 conducter lead:

Red
Brown
Green
Black
White
I assume these are the hall sensors?

Then there is a 2 conducter lead:
Purple
Black


??? I would think there would just be 3 phase wires, then 3 hall wires and a ground. So I'm a bit lost here.

--John

--John

The hall sensors require 5v power to operate, so usually the black and red wires supply the power. The remaining 3 are the hall signals.
I don't know for sure, but I'd guess the purple/black pair goes to a temperature sensor or thermostatic switch inside the motor. You could meausre the resistance across these and maybe get a clue.

I wouldn't trust the color codes on the motor. They have a bad tendency to switch the colors even on the same model. Use as a starting point maybe, but always test the motor with some kind of current measurement device to check the no-load/full speed current. If the wiring is not right, the motor will not always start from a dead stop, studder, or run with excessively high current, which could damage the controller. Wild guess that motor should draw around 5A or less at full speed with no load.
 
Thanks for the help fechter. So i guess ill play and try to get the halls correct. Once i do i will post here so everyone knows.

That would be sweet if that was a thermistor in there.....i guess ill just run the motor for a bit and put a ohm meter on it and see if it changes resistance...

--John
 
Bad news for ya John... on my motor Tim ran all the smaller wires (7) into one loom and attached an 8 point connector to them for me. I thought he only placed a srink tube over the attachment point of the loom into the connector. So I attampted to cut the tbe off so I could identify the wire color locations to match to my controller (it's not a Keely controller though). I found the tube was not only srinked in place but Tim did a really great job by filling the back of the connector with hot melt glue to help hold the wires into it. The tube is therefore glued in place and can not be easily removed without causing wire damage. Sorry but I tried to get you more info.

Bob
 
No big deal man....i emailed superkids, they just emailed me back and said they will get the info ASAP. I will post here once i get it so we all have the info.

--John
 
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