...let me try! [low-cost street bike] -- last steps...

[hotschott]

Hi,

I've made a stand up scooter powered by a 80/100/180 my controller is a dlux 160 and I recommend to add capacitors if you lengthen the battery wires. I've 7km and it seems to work well. Don't try to start from standstill or it will burn.

[silvocross]

Wont those bare open ears present a problem?

The gears doesn't interfere, by the way I've to reduce the thickness of the bigger gear yet.
Obviously, all the transmission will be enclosed by a plastic cover made by a thermoforming process, I've already had some testings with it before: http://progettosilvio.altervista.org/jo ... rmoformato. (I'm sorry it isn't translated yet)

[silvocross]

Hi,

I've made a stand up scooter powered by a 80/100/180 my controller is a dlux 160 and I recommend to add capacitors if you lengthen the battery wires. I've 7km and it seems to work well. Don't try to start from standstill or it will burn.

Thanks mate, happy to see someone using this new controller without problems.
I bought 6 of this capacitors, do you think they're good for that?
http://www.ebay.it/itm/300452796579?ssP ... 1497.l2649

Which settings did you choose for the esc?

[hotschott]

Capacitors seems to be good (low ESR)

I left the default settings on the controller. Be careful to set the right number of cells you use (default setting is 10S). I will try to change the timing for high but I think it will produce more heat..not sure. With my configuration of 12s 10Ah I had peaks of 5000 Watts while accelerating.

http://www.evalbum.com/preview.php?vid=3912

Not finished yet on the pictures.

[bandaro]

Looks good, the reduction may be a little high for rc controllers, they tend no to take the high amp draw of fast starts too well, so I would recommend you go easy on it like most rc drives. Once its going it shouldn't be too much of a problem though.

As for the gear cover, that's exactly how I made some covers myself, if you're at university then there is a good chance the workshop has one or the guy knows how to use them, they are a cheap machine. As a side note, thermoforming is the manufacturing class, the process you will be using is more commonly known as Vacuum forming, or just vac form. So if you search that on youtube you will get a few hits on making a machine as well.

Looking forwards to seeing the finished product!

[silvocross]

sigh...



now I've to rewind it with a couple of 16awg copper wire, this will be my first motor re-winding, i hope for a good result..

[Andje]

There is lots of info on here about RC motor rewinding, and plenty more on RC forums. It is reportedly a blistery hassle, but you can substantially increase the reliability of that motor as well as repair at the same time.
I love the direct geared tranny; that is one of only two or three geared bikes on the sphere. Good luck with the rest of your project! We are all rooting for you!

[silvocross]

There is lots of info on here about RC motor rewinding, and plenty more on RC forums. It is reportedly a blistery hassle, but you can substantially increase the reliability of that motor as well as repair at the same time.
I love the direct geared tranny; that is one of only two or three geared bikes on the sphere. Good luck with the rest of your project! We are all rooting for you!

Thanks andje, I found some threads here about rewinding the turnigy, but I'm still a little confused. I've got to study the original stator and see how I can rewind it without changing the kv too much.

Yesterday I had an university test that went fine, so in the afternoon I decided to prepare the frame for the painting, instead of studying...

[recumpence]

There is lots of info on here about RC motor rewinding, and plenty more on RC forums. It is reportedly a blistery hassle, but you can substantially increase the reliability of that motor as well as repair at the same time.
I love the direct geared tranny; that is one of only two or three geared bikes on the sphere. Good luck with the rest of your project! We are all rooting for you!

Thanks andje, I found some threads here about rewinding the turnigy, but I'm still a little confused. I've got to study the original stator and see how I can rewind it without changing the kv too much.

Yesterday I had an university test that went fine, so in the afternoon I decided to prepare the frame for the painting, instead of studying...

You should have that bad boy powder-coated. It is far more durable.

Matt

[silvocross]

You should have that bad boy powder-coated. It is far more durable.

Matt

uh, thanks Matt.
I did it before with my dirtbike, but it's a bit expensive for a low cost street bike, so I've just gave it an anti-rust coat and then a first layer of paint.



today I bought the 16AWG wire for the motor, maybe tomorrow night i can rewind it.

thanks guys for following!

[ohzee]

Looking good.. Lots of room in there for stuff.

[silvocross]

ok, I just finished to wind the motor up, it's now DLRK delta connected,9 turns per teeth of 2 parallel 16 AWG wire. i hope to get about 120kV now.

[GITech]

Nice silvocross!!!

I like your wind job! I did a similar wind recently with a D4023-850 kv. 13T 2x24awg Zig-Zag DLRK:


What this variation does is it makes the ends of the wires come out of the stator together in pairs!! Pretty cool huh?

I got +85% efficiency at 14.4v 20amps with a GWS 10x6x3 blade prop @ WOT, >1500g of thrust from a 107g motor..!

I think I really like doing winds with 2 wires instead of 1 BIG one. Usually cleaner and easier.

Good job!

Jay

[spinningmagnets]

I highly recommend adding input capacitors. They are cheap, and many people here have fried their controller without them. many ways to do that, here is a pic of what Castle recommends (the caps are $2 each if you buy direct from an electronics supplier)
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/cc-cap-pack.html


Heres Lukes thread on capacitor choices, they arrived in the mail in an envelope a few days after ordering:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=22194&hilit=nichicon&start=45#p382837

[silvocross]

Thanks guys for your advices, I really need your inputs.

about the caps, I added six of these:

Code: Select all

Panasonic EEUFC1J471
Life Time @ Temperature:5000 hours @ 105°C
Height:20mm
Outside Diameter:16mm
Capacitor Case Style:Radial Leaded  .Lead Spacing:7.5mm
Operating Temperature Range:-55°C to +105°C
AC Ripple Current:1765mA
Application:Low ESR 
Impedance:0.059ohm
Impedance Frequency:100kHz
Impedance Temperature:20°C
Max Operating Temperature:105°C
Ripple Current Frequency:100kHz

I think they're good, but obviously I get an huge spark when connecting the cables. I'm not sure if it's ok for the relay, maybe I've to install a second wire with a series resistor so i can charge the capacitors slowly before definitely connecting them.


a little update about the frame, now:

[silvocross]

it works, it works!!

[panurge]

Hi Silvio

Glad to hear that everything works.... now I wanna also see it!!!!!!!!

Good work with the motor windings....have you replaced also the bearings? damn, I've not your skills with wires and electronics, but if I was not so busy I would try to rewind my 80-100 too

I will look for Reports on how the controller works in your setup.
Also I'm curious about direct gears.....I'm not sure if they are good without lubrication with your setup's power, but, hey, here on ES It's really easy to be surprised by the real world member's applications...

Hope to see Pics - Video soon .......

I really like your style and determination.

Jules

[silvocross]

Good work with the motor windings....have you replaced also the bearings? damn, I've not your skills with wires and electronics, but if I was not so busy I would try to rewind my 80-100 too

I will look for Reports on how the controller works in your setup.

Hi Jules, It's not so difficult to rewind the 80-100 but it took me about 4 hours (it was a long night... ) 'cause it was my first attempt in rewinding.
Don't worry, you can do it!

I haven't found reasons to change the bearings, they're working good at the moment

with 9 turns instead of the original 8, the motor runs a little slower as I expected, it should be better for the transmission.

I'll upload pics of the bike when the wiring is complete, i don't wanna show messy wires all around

today I modified the turnigy wattmeter so I can place the display in a useful place without lengthening the 50V wires:



I'm gonna design the esc controller pcb, so this'll be a long night too...

Question: why are you not using a servo tester to control the esc?
Answer: Seems that one of the mayor causes of RC esc failure is the wide open throttle when the motor is running at low rpms. I wanna try to avoid it mixing the throttle position throttle gradient and bike speed [I hope I explained myself properly ]

OFF TOPIC:
I see you're from Berlin, what about to study engineering in Germany? Do you know if I can found courses in english?
thanks

[silvocross]

a little picture to better explain the esc controller

[rojitor]

You are doing a great project, i like it very much so far. I hope we can see it finished pretty soon.

[E-racer]

nice looking rewind! I will definitely be emulating your wind next go around. I did a 12turn single 14 gauge in delta for 88kv. I like the two 16guge wires in parallel though and I think 120kv could work out nicely eventually.

[panurge]

Hi Silvio

I'm Italian, but my wife is from Berlin And I stay there for long periods during the year:) can say nothing right now about english courses in Germany but could ask of course...

Interesting intent about the throttle interface, however, from my experience and from what I know from other members, problems are with any throttle gradient at very low RPM, and maybe WOT could be, from theory, the better option there , If the transmission will survive and you will be not ejected or backfliped anyway your approach sounds really interesting.....

There's the beta CA-LRC option playing around these lines (works well, and better promises) to be used with both POT or hall Throttles as an Amp based or a speed based interface with RC ESCs, avoiding the use of a supplementary interface......and also if I understand that your build is low cost, and is a pleasure for you to play with electronics, let me say that The CA is a "must" for any EV rider-builder .

Looking forward to next steps!!!

Jules

[silvocross]

There's the beta CA-LRC option playing around these lines (works well, and better promises) to be used with both POT or hall Throttles as an Amp based or a speed based interface with RC ESCs, avoiding the use of a supplementary interface......and also if I understand that your build is low cost, and is a pleasure for you to play with electronics, let me say that The CA is a "must" for any EV rider-builder .

I had a look at the cycle analyst, it's a great project and seems that here on ES it received the right attention, but I have other ideas in my head.

I don't like character LCD's (they're looking so obsolete) and I just wanna a single programmable bike computer.
At the moment I'll go with the turnigy wattmeter for the first runs, then I'm planning to use my own hardware:





I'm also studying and following the opensource brushless controller thread, so hopefully i can incorporate it as well.

But at the moment the priority is to have a working test bike, the cake always arrives at the end of the party..

[fattybarber]

I am learning all about e-bikes but have been riding for a long time and my only comment is you seem to have a long stretch from seat to handlebars and this may cause sore wrists as there will be quite a bit of weight on them, unless you are "very tall"
Just a thought.

[silvocross]

I am learning all about e-bikes but have been riding for a long time and my only comment is you seem to have a long stretch from seat to handlebars and this may cause sore wrists as there will be quite a bit of weight on them, unless you are "very tall"
Just a thought.

umm, the position is similar to a cafè racer, so obviously a little front-stretched. I'm a dirtbike rider so I think to have a trained wrists, anyway I could also modify the seat if necessary.

I finished the pcb design, so I hope to find out some copper in bedroom....