Giant Glory '09 (83mm BB) + GNG Mid Drive build

Meister · Dec 29, 2013

My first post here on ES, so hello everyone

Been e-biker for a year, this is my primary ride:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?mode=view&id=126783

Based upon MXUS 36V500W hub motor, Marin frame and Marzocchi fork.
Max speed 40-45km/h with some pedaling.

Wanted to build something faster, with usable gears and full suspension, so I ordered GNG 48V450W Mid Drive kit.
It arrived within 8 days; Jon at GNG is a great guy!
At the same time, spotted Giant Glory '09 frame at local used bike market, and had a feeling that those components might mate perfectly with some mods.
So, I repositioned the GNG mounting bracket by 60°, by simply moving it one mounting hole backwards.
Whole thing got linear, stretched look.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?mode=view&id=126785

Primary reduction isn't affected, secondary will need longer chain

A quick scaled mockup in PS shows that things may fit well:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?mode=view&id=126784

So I contacted the guy, tried everything in place and bought the frame.
Oh, the joy!

Everything is properly aligned and has proper clearance.
Mounting bracket had to be cut in half and had 15mm spacers inserted on the left side of the motor.
Also, I found a neat solution how to implement standard GNG BB 68mm axle into a 83mm downhill bike frame.

Gotta sort the pictures - more details in a next post

Meister · Dec 29, 2013

Fabricated a longer bracket hex bolts:

New bolts and 15mm spacers in place.
You can notice halved bracket:

Nuts tightened

New bracket width is 83mm, compatible with downhill bike BB

Meister · Dec 29, 2013

Fresh from the local paint shop

Had to cut left side of bracket because it interferred with bike frame

Resulting fit is SICK

Meister · Dec 29, 2013

Removed original GNG upper clamp post and fabricated nice shiny brackety thingy

It connects lower shock pivot and two points on motor assembly

Upgraded secondary transmission to half link BMX chain.
Also, moved the tensioner arm one bolt ahead from original position

Meister · Dec 29, 2013

GNG bottom bracket axle is 150mm long and designed for 67mm frame.
Disassembled for measuring.
Bearing dimensions are 16mm inner, 31mm outer diameter, and 10mm width.

When installed in 83mm frame, chainwheel ( right) side is properly aligned, but left sided BB cup is too short.

Elegant solution to this problem: screw the original bearing cup all the way in and tighten, so the axle bearing is secured in place.
DH bikes usually have plenty of threading in bottom bracket tube

Then take another BB cup and tighten it over the first (internally installed) one

This additional cup will hold GNG bracket in place

Pedals now have slight 10mm offset to the right side, but I can live with that.

spinningmagnets · Dec 29, 2013

Very nice! What city/country are you in?

If you use the stock GNG pulley (which is machined into the motor shaft so it can be as small as possible), that pulley is known to have sharp edges. Carefully sand off the sharp edges as soon as possible.

litespeed · Dec 29, 2013

Excellent build.

Tom

Meister · Dec 29, 2013

spinningmagnets said:
Very nice! What city/country are you in?

If you use the stock GNG pulley (which is machined into the motor shaft so it can be as small as possible), that pulley is known to have sharp edges. Carefully sand off the sharp edges as soon as possible.

Greetings from Zagreb, capitol of Croatia

Sharp edges on stock pulley?
This is a problem on belt drive version, right?
Endless sphere forum was resourceful in my initial research, so I opted for Gen2 with primary chain transmission.
But thank you for shared knowledge!

litespeed said:
Excellent build.

Tom

Thank you!

Meister · Jan 2, 2014

Snapped two pics while waiting for other parts to arrive

Front fork will be 200mm RockShox Boxxer - currently on my other e-bike

jollydet · Mar 31, 2014

any updates? how is this going? what are you doing for a battery setup. what kind of speeds are you getting?

jk1 · Mar 31, 2014

Do you have any ground clearance issues ? the GNG is very long and the angle it points down is very low , i could see you hitting some objects with the motor that low on big drops.

You may have been better suited to the more compact cyclone style builds on that bike frame like this one:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=55066

they take up a lot less room under the frame

Meister · Apr 2, 2014

No ground clearance issues at all

This 120mm fork was installed just for testing.
Front end is now upgraded to 200mm Boxxer RC, whole bike jumped up by 50mm

Will post some pics soon!

cal3thousand · Apr 2, 2014

VERY good work here! Your documentation of the work is very good and concise as well. I'm sure this will help someone in their personal quest for a badass ride.

Bookmarked!

saltvatten · Apr 2, 2014

cal3thousand said:
VERY good work here! Your documentation of the work is very good and concise as well. I'm sure this will help someone in their personal quest for a badass ride.

Bookmarked!

Well, it is definitely an inspiration for me. I'm thinking about starting my own Glory-GNG project.
Meister, you da man.

Meister · Apr 7, 2014

Thank you, guys! :-D

Just a quick update; after a 2 months wait, battery finally arrived from China!
Woohoo!
Gotta provide invoices to custom office and wait for a few more days, but further action is coming SOON :-D

jollydet · Apr 8, 2014

excited

Meister · Apr 15, 2014

My V-Power battery has finally arrived from China!
It's a hefty 6kg brick, measuring 195 x 150 x 125 mm
It has external BMS in separate plastic housing.
( Pictured Watt-meter isn't part of this package )
I know there's a lot of better solutions, but for $260 this is a big bang for a buck.
Also, I live in Croatia - you have to include extra 30% VAT on every USA price
Will do the trick for now, at least in this initial bike building and testing phase

My plan was to disassemble it and rearrange whole battery pack into something more useful regarding placement and overall bike design.
So, I removed aprox. 10 layers of duct-tape

And voila:

Battery pack consist from 16 series of 4 parallel elements.
Unlabelled cells, eh

Rearranged the cells by cutting and re-soldering the tabs

More pics follows!

Meister · Apr 15, 2014

After testing of various battery placements, I realized that split design is a way to go.
So I split the battery in two halves.
Initial plan was to mount battery on front frame downtube, just over the motor assembly - but it's a tad too bulky to fit without cutting all the cells and rearranging them in impossible and impractical ways.
Also, I consider the Stealth bike battery mounting, but this will make a whole frame a bit non-ergonomic.

So, I ended with two solutions.
First:

Second version:

First one has good flow and blends nicely with bike's lines, but second has better fork and pedals clearance.

Now I have to fabricate battery tray.
Epoxy resin time, yay! :-D

r3volved · Apr 15, 2014

Go with the second and get them as close to the headset as possible without interfering with your steering. I have a similar setup...I actually did the exact same thing with a Vpower pack and stripped it down to two parts on either side of the frame. You'll want the peddle and knee clearance.
How big is that battery? 48v 10ah?

Meister · Apr 15, 2014

Thank you for that info, I will go with second setup! :-D

Battery is 48V 12Ah

r3volved · Apr 15, 2014

I have a 15ah and kept my batteries rectangular (in hindsight, I would have done a rhombus like yours)
Also note that I don't have a double crown fork - in which case it would interfere with steering.
You might also want to open up that BMS and make sure the board is secured well (mine was floating around in the plastic case and I had to secure it)

Meister · Apr 15, 2014

This is one sick looking machine! :-D

Yes, mine BMS was also a floating one :-/
I will fit it in between battery halves, there will be plenty of space left.

I've found neat battery position and I'm making mold for encasing.

Your battery is secured solely by adhesive tape, or this is only external protection?

r3volved · Apr 15, 2014

gorilla tape is holding everything together right now. Since November, no problems all winter.
I don't want to put too much effort into battery box right now...I want a FS frame first. This one's killing my back.

Meister · Apr 22, 2014

Last week I assembled the whole battery pack in Ver2 split design, positioned everything and started making brackets... and then my OCD kicked in.

So, I mangled everything to pieces and constructed a battery pack which fits under the front downtube:

BMS is integrated into housing, everything secured by silicone glue and insulated using thin plastic sheets and rubber cushioning.
Wrapped in duct tabe at the moment, I will make hard shell casing with mounts.

Tested, everything is smooth

Next, I will cut all the cables ( motor and throttle ) to neat lenghts and remove unused connectors from controller.

Quick question; is it safe to use 5V voltage supply from controller ( throttle cable ) to run 10W CREE headlight?

Meister · Apr 24, 2014

I've removed PAS sensor and brake switch wires from breakout cable bundle.
Installed miniature key lock switch directly on controller chassis - connected as power On/Off switch
The key can be removed in both positions.

Next, removed plastic Hall sensors connector and installed more rugged multipin connector.

Have anybody tried 3-pin XLR audio connector on phase wires?
Will it hold 15-20A?

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