GNG 60v650w advices

S

Sr.Agaporni

100 W
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
144
Location
Benidorm, Spain
Hi all.

I have just ordered a kit for my new project.
- GNG 60v650w
- EM3EV battery 50,4v 16,5ah.
- Cycle Analist V3

I know GNG chainwheel is not reliable, but I am trying to test it before starting all the fixing and shit. However, i would like to start researching about that. I know Cyclone chainwheel kit is nice, but also expensive, is there any other option?

Also, any experience about that combination of GNG + EM3EV battery? It is suppose to work till 40a continuous, so 2kw expected from the combo...
 
If you will run this kit at 50V, contact the seller and ask if he will swap-in the 48V controller, because it has a low-voltage cutoff (LVC) that is set for those batteries. the seller has done this change for free in the past.

A 60V controller will think a 50V battery is low, and it will not allow it to run. The Cycle analyst will give you many choices about how to control the kit.
 
spinningmagnets said:
If you will run this kit at 50V, contact the seller and ask if he will swap-in the 48V controller, because it has a low-voltage cutoff (LVC) that is set for those batteries. the seller has done this change for free in the past.

A 60V controller will think a 50V battery is low, and it will not allow it to run. The Cycle analyst will give you many choices about how to control the kit.
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for the advice. Really low voltage range controller, rated at 60V can't handle 50v?
 
Jon tells me: "The controller can work at 58V-63V 11AH-22AH battery". So I need a new controller...
Starting to understand the low price of this kit :)
 
The best and easiest thing you can do for your stock chain wheel is to replace the 8 M6 (I think) bolts that sandwich everything together. Replace these 8 with 4 x 1"xM6 and lock nuts.

The stock ones sandwich from both sides and got chewed up with continuous use - causing chain wheel to become loose and wiggly.
 
Really low voltage range controller, rated at 60V can't handle 50v?
Click to expand...

The most affordable low-priced controllers only work with one specific voltage. There are some controllers that are programmable, but even then you need to tell the controller what voltage you will be using.

If you use a LiPo battery, I recommend that you charge the pack to 4.1V per cell, and use 3.6V as the Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC).

If you are using 12 cells that are connected "in series", it is called 12S, so...4.1V to 3.6V per cell means that when the battery is fully charged up, the pack voltage is (12 X 4.1 =) 49.2 volts, and then...after you have ridden around for a while, the voltage in the pack will be lower. If you let the voltage get too low, it can damage the batteries. The controller will "shut off" the battery when the voltage gets down to the LVC setting. 12 cells at 3.6V each equals (12 X 3.6 =) 43.2V.

I don't know if the 60V controller from GNG is programmable, so it might only work with 60V. A 60V controller may have it's LVC set to cut the battery off at 55V, so...if you hook up a 50V battery to it, the controller will think it is a 60V battery that is low, instead of a 50V battery that is full.
 
Thanks for the explanation. I already ordered a 12 mosfet controller fon EM3EV too, it works 36-72v and should work perfect with its own batteries. i will post any upgrade when parts starts arriving.
 
After a waiting for a few weeks (6 weeks, EM3EV are really slow...) i have just received my kit. As I am on holidays I have started to mount the bike. After a first try, I am having problems to switch on everything. The 12 mosfet controller is supposed to work with a direct connection to the cycle analyst (CA), but I haven't been able to make the CA switch on with direct connection. I have tried the shunt connection and it switches on, but nothing works.

The throttle is connected to the CA as I don't have any throttle that can work directly with the controller.

Whatever I try, I can't make the motor start...

Any advice?
 
r3volved said:
Does the controller have an ignition wire? (thin red wire that would typically have your key switch)
Click to expand...

Man, your are my God. Thank you very much. It works now, and it is amazing. Need to configure CA a little more, but promising kit!
 
r3volved said:
The best and easiest thing you can do for your stock chain wheel is to replace the 8 M6 (I think) bolts that sandwich everything together. Replace these 8 with 4 x 1"xM6 and lock nuts.

The stock ones sandwich from both sides and got chewed up with continuous use - causing chain wheel to become loose and wiggly.
Click to expand...

Do that. I did similar mod because threads did not hold bolts anymore
 
Did it too!
Those little bolts seem to come loose and half falling out.
Threads strip too. Just put a long bolt through everything!
 
meelis11 said:
r3volved said:
The best and easiest thing you can do for your stock chain wheel is to replace the 8 M6 (I think) bolts that sandwich everything together. Replace these 8 with 4 x 1"xM6 and lock nuts.

The stock ones sandwich from both sides and got chewed up with continuous use - causing chain wheel to become loose and wiggly.
Click to expand...

Do that. I did similar mod because threads did not hold bolts anymore
Click to expand...

I have read something about that, but can't find any post now. Can you refer me a url? Thanks for the advice. I knew some upgrades are necessaries but at the moment everything is working. I am running at 1200w, more than enough for me.
 
Sr.Agaporni said:
meelis11 said:
r3volved said:
The best and easiest thing you can do for your stock chain wheel is to replace the 8 M6 (I think) bolts that sandwich everything together. Replace these 8 with 4 x 1"xM6 and lock nuts.

The stock ones sandwich from both sides and got chewed up with continuous use - causing chain wheel to become loose and wiggly.
Click to expand...

Do that. I did similar mod because threads did not hold bolts anymore
Click to expand...

I have read something about that, but can't find any post now. Can you refer me a url? Thanks for the advice. I knew some upgrades are necessaries but at the moment everything is working. I am running at 1200w, more than enough for me.
Click to expand...

I have not seen any detailed tutorial for that. I just bought long enough m6 stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts and cut bolt shorter after installation (did not find exact length)
 
20Bhsyhl.jpg


I used 1"xM6 bolts and nylock nuts as shown. Threaded the bolt from the frame side and added the nut on the crank side.

1" was pretty much exact for me as shown in red. The roundness of the freewheel also locks the nut from rotating as shown in blue
 
r3volved said:
20Bhsyhl.jpg


I used 1"xM6 bolts and nylock nuts as shown. Threaded the bolt from the frame side and added the nut on the crank side.

1" was pretty much exact for me as shown in red. The roundness of the freewheel also locks the nut from rotating as shown in blue
Click to expand...

Thanks!!!!!
 
I am advancing with the CA configuration, but I have some problems/doubts:
- Speedometer: cant make it work, i have installed everything, but always shows no movement, rpm or km/h... any idea?
- Battery protection: i have a EM3EV battery, 50V 24,8ah nominal values and 58,8v 25,65ah real values. It should be a 14s9p configuration, and i charge it to 53V (using the 90% recommendation). So... should i configure the CA with those parameters?
* Battery type: LiFe?
* Max current: 30A (39,6 should be safe, but don't need that much power)
* Min Voltage: no idea. It should be >35V, but not sure, i would like to protect the battery so the lifecycle is as longer as possible, would 40v be ok?
- 3 position switch: i want to have 3 presets using the 3 switchs plug, i think i should use (66,16) configuration, but not sure If i have understood that right:
* I: 250w max (even 25km/h max if possible) so I can use the bike in the street according to the EU laws.
* II: 1000w max (no speed limits): normal use when in the country
* III: no limits (only the protection ones), just to do some extreme riding.

I am new at the CA world, so a bit help is always welcome. I have been told that CA is just a must in advance ebike riding, and I am learning that that is a true advice...
 
Well, at this moment, only the speedometer is not working. Any advice? I am using a CA3-DPS with firmware 3.0 prelim6. I have the external sensor and the magnet in the wheel installed, but can't make it work...
 
speedometer sensor needs to be VERY close and set the Pole to 1.

Mine wasn't working either but that resolved it. I also read that someone had to resolder the wire back onto the board inside the controller because it had detached.
 
Well, I am going with this, because the most I use my bike, the most I want to use it more :)

At the moment, there is two points which are starting to concern me:
- Noise: really noisy kit, people turns their head when i pass next to them. Any upgrade to low the noise? I use at 250w when in public areas, streets, etc... but still not expected noise for a bike.
- Chain tensor (red plastic freewheel): any way to put it away? It feels as a really low quality part, and I would prefer drop it away before it breaks or worst. I have seen some examples without that part, but don't know how to do that (just cutting the chain?)

Thanks!
 
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