dusan's GNG bike

dusan

100 W
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Messages
153
Location
Slovakia
Hello,
my intention is to build light and waterproof ebike with GNG kit to support my cycling routes.
 

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Hello, I have problem with my GNG modded controller, probably.
It was working since I push to motor a lot of torque. Actually motor had problem to start spinning.
My modded stock controller worked above 50Amps. I soldered another shunt.
Now it doesn't spin, I measured voltage on throttle
between red and black, there is 4.4V. When using throttle, voltage between black and green is changing.
I measured voltage on motor Hall sensors, it varies based on motor rotor position when manually spinning.
I measured motor phases when manually spinning, there was small voltage between each phase till spinning.
When battery is plugged but no throttle, there is always full voltage on one of motor phase, doesn't matter in which position is rotor.
Does it problem with controller (burned semiconductor power parts)?
Thanks.
Edit: It seems one FET is broken. These HY1707 FET are probably not able to run over 2kW.
By datasheet specification one can run at 180W, it means 180x9=1620W max power.

Edit2: After changing broken FET to replacement IRFB3207ZPBF
http://www.gme.sk/irfb3207zpbf-p213-318 motor start to work. This FET has also higher wattage.
 

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Added 22t chainring. I was able to climb with just 2-3Amps.


Jackshaft freewheel, there is reverse thread
IMG_20141118_192544.jpg
 
After modding controller.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=42785&p=696672#p696643
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=46891#p686506
IMG_20141123_143828.jpg
seems restricted only battery discharge rate
IMG_20141107_083807.jpg

Battery pack, 2x5s Lipo 5Ah placed under seat
IMG_20141123_143727.jpg
 
--freeride-- said:
What kit is that? Looks like an improved GNG right?
Yes, kit is GNG 1.1 with modded controller running on 10s Lipo.
Currently, I need rebuild BB crankset. I have #25 chain and sprockets, so at full throttle it could run at human cadence.
I have two options
- use BMX BB with freewheel
- use any ISIS BB without freewheel
If anyone has some suggestions, please post.
Thanks
 
Use a non-freewheel crank. Freewheel cranks are unreliable and quick to wear out even in clean, dry riding conditions.

Why don't you just get some new bearing cups for your existing crank? Can you not get the chainring sizes you need?
 
Chalo said:
Use a non-freewheel crank. Freewheel cranks are unreliable and quick to wear out even in clean, dry riding conditions.

Why don't you just get some new bearing cups for your existing crank? Can you not get the chainring sizes you need?

Thanks Chalo,

I have problem with stock BB crankset similar to here
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=54585
Probably this square tapper is not symetrical.
After few weeks of riding, stock BB is hard to spin manually. I don't want to buy another GNG stock BB and crank arms.
Also I replaced stock freewheel with ACS and I cannot pull crank arm correctly, probably different thread in stock crank arm.

I would like to build similar to this
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=61288
but without stock BB.
So, I would try for example Truvativ HammerSmidt AM 73/68mm but without freewheel.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=47618

If you have some tips for suitable BB and corresponding crankset w/o freewheel, please post.
Thanks.

IMG_20141123_100048.jpg
IMG_20141123_100147.jpg
IMG_20141123_100236.jpg
 
dusan said:
I would like to build similar to this
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=61288
but without stock BB.

Is it because the BB that came with your bike originally won't allow you to mount the motor bracket? Because the crank in your first picture has the correct bolt pattern fo the conversion described in the link above.

You might find that using a 3-piece BMX crank with a plain 19mm spindle and an adapter spider would fit the chainrings you need while giving you complete control over spacing and chainline. Profile Racing makes at least four different spindle lengths for their cranks, but any one of them allows a great deal of variation in spacing and offset. There are lots of cheaper options that are fundamentally similar; but only Profile offers as large a range of spindle lengths as far as I know.

This is the general type of crank I'm talking about. You can get both inboard and outboard bearing bottom brackets for them:
fsa-bmx-34.jpg
 
Is it because the BB that came with your bike originally won't allow you to mount the motor bracket? Because the crank in your first picture has the correct bolt pattern fo the conversion described in the link above.
Actually, I thought, he is using GNG stock BB.
I would prefer to use my original bicycle BB, Shimano SM BB51, but there is not enough space for jackshaft, between crank arms. On non drive side, there is clearance for primary reduction but on drive side, jackshaft freewheel is crossing right crank arm. So, it seems, I would use some BB that support longer spindle.

You might find that using a 3-piece BMX crank with a plain 19mm spindle and an adapter spider would fit the chainrings you need while giving you complete control over spacing and chainline. Profile Racing makes at least four different spindle lengths for their cranks, but any one of them allows a great deal of variation in spacing and offset.
This looks really promising, with 64/104mm adapter, I can have probably 3 chainrings, 1 for motor, 2 for me.

I found this BB
http://www.cheapbikeparts360.com/products/atomlab-general-issue-cranks/

Thanks Chalo!
 

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So, I decided to order ISIS bottom bracket from eclipsebikes.com. There are few options for such ISIS bottom bracket. Truvativ, probably FSA. I will probably not shift outer chainring but inner two, to keep original bicycle chainline.
 
This was reason, why crank arm wasn't properly tight.

Freewheel thread depth
IMG_20141204_190732.jpg

Crank arm thread depth
IMG_20141204_190512.jpg
 
You can make up the difference with bottom bracket spacers.

(It's the same thread diameter and pitch for both parts. You can thread a freewheel hub into the left side of a frame. )
 
So far so good. I grinded few millimeters from stock GNG right crank arm to continue with plowing in current weather.
IMG_20141209_204036.jpg

I'm wondering if I just need to change original support bearing for plastic bearing and can use stock support bearing adapter with ISIS bottom bracket.
http://www.fabory.sk/sk/product/plast-slide-bearing-nat-28mm/56806280001.html
IMG_20141210_142232.jpg

31.2mm


28.1mm
View attachment 1
 
Mounted Crystalyte Cruise control.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63288#p982627
http://www.gme.sk/ka-80-p634-530
IMG_20141214_203236.jpg

Soldered wires
View attachment 5

#25 chain conversion, 68/11
IMG_20141216_140135.jpg
Grinded motor spindle
IMG_20141217_203033.jpg
11t sprocket fit with chain
IMG_20141217_203157.jpg
stock primary chain cover
IMG_20141217_203403.jpg
I would like to do better tensioner, probably some plastic bearing or shift jackshaft.
 
I get rid of primary tensioner today, waiting for Pedros 8 notch removal tool, to continue with ISIS setup. And on way is Conhismotor controller
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=65508
 

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I modified a bit jackshaft sheets, did bigger holes and grinded a bit from motor cooler, so jackshaft is now about 1mm closer to motor rotor.
 
I'm experimenting with Truvativ Gigapipe. I was able to mounted it with correct jackshaft chainline. I need to grind original GNG BB freewheel adapter to fit both of my chainrings, 22t and 38t.
 

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I'm tuning my new Conhismotor controller with parameter P1, what is actually motor working cadence. Also will try to tune P5 for my 10s LiPo to match battery indicator with rest capacity. I want to remove my current wattmeter and keep only controller integrated.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=65508#p1007714
With new controller I'm able to keep consumption under 6Wh/km. I am thinking of replacing LiPo with Lion, I don't need anymore such current. My usual wattage in terrain is 100-120W at PAS level 1, controller maximum is 25A. PAS level 5 is more or less for asphalt roads where I can reach speed over 40km/h.
IMG_20150228_141257.jpg
New bike is slowly ready to host my kit.
IMG_20150228_142315.jpg
 

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I have moved kit on new full suspension bike, removed throttle, wattmeter and therefore are power cables shorter, more efficient. Conhismotor controller measure actual voltage, wattage and display remaining battery capacity with battery indicator.
I set parameter P5 to 10 and battery indicator is more accurate when using 10s LiPo.
 

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