Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

[Andje]

Isn't the Thudbuster great? It's not dual suspension, but it IS the BEST sus-seatpost

[flyinmonkie]

Y,

Maybe I missed it, but have you swapped out the nuvinci for the SA 3 speed cassette hub? If so, how is it holding up?

I like my set up, but it isn't the smoothest shifting into and out of 3rd and it would be nice to shift at a standstill. Would also clean up the bike a lot for me.

Anyway, a report on the SA 3 speed would be good once you have punished it.

Clay

[Ypedal]

My pair of SA 3 speed hubs are still in the box, but i am ordering spokes this week to lace them up, one of them is going to be driven similar to this RC bike but with a clyte 4013 at 100v using a special CNC custom hub cover made for me by an australian guy many years ago, " ( anyone remember Don ? ) .. more on that once the spokes arrive, will start a new thread... but for now the RC bike is still using the nuvinci..

[flyinmonkie]

Thanks Y,

Sounds like that bike will be very interesting. I'll be watching to see how the SA hub holds up.

Clay

[Bluefang]

Hey Ypedal, After using the Nuvinci for a while now do you think it will be able to handle 5kw going into it and been geared for a max speed of 60km/h with 26" rims? or should i go through the extra effort and have the Nuvinci i have laced into a 20" rim to lower the torque required? It wont have much shock loading as i will be running the RC motor through a clutch and a V-belt drive. The motor i plan to use will be a Turnigy 63 can motor. I would try and work out the torque it would make but i have no idea what the Turnigy motor makes normally. Any ideas on what you think would make a perfect Nuvinci bike would be great to hear too Thanks

Derek

[Ypedal]

Hi Derek, my Nuvinci is still holding up so far, 4000w is about as much as i'd dare pump thru it, and if i was to do it over again i'd likely skip the Nuvi and stick with a 3 speed, or go with the larger motor ( like the 3220 and go fixed gear ) ... the Nuvi is heavy and i know i'm loosing energy via internal slippage............

Last night, went out with my neighbor, he took my Norco Chaos 100v 409, and i took the RC bike, shortly after leaving home i noticed an un-usual sound in the drive system.....

Slowed down, leaned in and looked for obvious problems, all the set screws are solid ( i put liquid paper on the shafts to see if anything moved.. ) .. pulled over and spun the drive by hand and no noise.. checked for kinked links in the chains, none to be seen..

Carried on with our ride, did a 20 km run or so...

Today, my cousin was over, and we decided to go again, so i took the RC bike, cousin took the Norco and my neighbor got on the chopper..

Same rickety rack, comes and goes, regardless of RPM, no vibrations out of the ordinary but something obviously not right in there.... no power loss .. but un-nerving..

So, after getting home in rain ( got light showers on the last km home.. but made it safe and just in time ) .. I removed the 2nd stage chain to free up the rear wheel and locate the noise.. , spun up the motor and rickey rack again...

removed belt.. still making noise.. removed motor cover fearing crunchy bearings... and found this :

[Ypedal]

well cooked windings on the top part..

But if you look closer at the bottom :

[Ypedal]

I cleaned out the cover, removed any visible stray solder beads i could find, and put it back together, still some noise in there........ so the rotor had to come out so i could check the bearing on the other end.

[mdd0127]

You're might to have to resolder the winding terminations if enough dripped out. Also looks like it's either time for less amps, more gearing, or active cooling.

[Ypedal]

This is what i got out of the motor.. the copper shim was all mangled, so i took it out ....

[Ypedal]

Stator looks ok..

astro5.JPG (31.05 KiB) Viewed 407 times

And going to take advantage of it being ouf to file down the ends clean, not impressed by this type of workmanship on a first class motor...

[Ypedal]

Stator side

[recumpence]

Hey Y. I can send you a couple heatsinks. That should help tremendously.

You sure have gotten some hard use on that motor!

Matt

[Kurt]

I guess just because something is a quality product doesn't mean it likes being abused any more then a lessor product. Although it would have been nice of them to face off the end of that shaft neat.

I think Matts more than proven the Astro motors are the king and can be very reliable when gearing and controller are dialled in. Its interesting I have worked around a lot of industrial 3 phase in runner style motors and the standard practice is. The motor can's have cooling fins on the outside of the casting. So a heat sink over the can sounds like a very good option.

Although my thinking was I can buy seven HTX 80-100 motors at $98 for the price of one astro 3220 motor. Perhaps if your going to give your motors a hard time it would be less disappointing to burn up a cheap motor when something went wrong.The bad thing about a out runner is you cant put a heat sink on the outside of the can

Kurt

[recumpence]

Bad thing about a out runner is you cant put a heat sink on the outside of the can

Kurt

No, but you can put a fan on it.

Matt

[Kurt]

No, but you can put a fan on it.

That's why I didn't cut the motor shaft off completely on the unused end of my 80-100. I kept about 25mm stub there for a fan if it was ever needed. A lot of industrial motors have a fan on one end and fins on the outside.

Kurt

[Ypedal]

Heat sink, absolutely, been meaning to get that one done for a while now...

Here is a snapshot of the winding terminations, should i re-solder this ?

I have Kester 44 and also some Zinc solder available, or leave it be ?

[recumpence]

You can add solder if you feel the need. It does "look" fine, though.

Your 3210 should have room for two heatsinks. That should drop your overall temps about 25 to 30 degree F.

Matt

[Ypedal]

I pondered it for a while and decided to give it the zinc solder treatment, i googled kester 44 and the zink solder, it's something like 375 vs 420 celcius melting point..

Not alot however, just a light flow after wetting with the right flux.

[Ypedal]

And more shrink..

[Ypedal]

Wrapped the rogot in paper and tape to prevent metal shavings from the file process to stick to the magnets, getting metal dust off the very.. and i mean VERY strong magnets is no fun...

no more jagged surface !!

astro11.JPG (48.32 KiB) Viewed 532 times

Then i removed both bearings and checked them for smoothness, the pulley side bearing had a very small amount of roughness to it, barely noticable really.

I used a light oil and applied it to the edges of the sealed bearings, spun them up and work the oil in, flipped them around and put the motor back together, powered it up and zoom zoom.. nice and smooth once again.

Re-installed the chain, and went for a short test ride, so far so good !!

[Kurt]

Nice job,
Its looking much better than when you first opened it up. Maybe you could get a little BBQ probe or some kind of thermometer on the outside of the can. I know it would be hotter on the inside. The exact numbers don't really matter. Use it more as a guide to when its getting abnormally hot and its time to give it a rest. Would be interesting to note the difference before and after a heat sink was fitted.

Kurt

[Ypedal]

I've never had a temp probe on any of my bikes, have pretty much always gone with the idea that if i fry it, it's not up to the job.. I'm getting a few of Matt's heat sinks, that should help a fair amount, right now a lot of the heat gets soaked up by the 2 stage drive assembly, itself made of aluminum takes alot of the heat..

I do have to admit that i am running this little 3210 to it's maximum potential !

Now that i have a baseline established, the next getup will be hosting a larger motor, might just have to try one of those outrunners for the hell of it..

[Kurt]

might just have to try one of those outrunners for the hell of it..

For under $100 they are a lot of fun. I might eat my words but if you do a quick QC on then with you first get it there not that bad. I had to spend about $30 for good Jap bearings and 3 hall sensors and about 2hrs of my time to clean up some excessive glue and burs here and there:D . Running halls and a ebike controller with them is great. I can nail the throttle from a stand still, even on a hill and the motor just spring to life and takes off. I was even doing roll-back burnouts on the lawn the other day just test the clutch.

What I would like to see is HK offer the same motor but charge $200 for it. Just wind it tighter with thicker copper and put Jap bearing's in from the start. I would happily pay double the price.

Kurt

[AussieJester]

What I would like to see is HK offer the same motor but charge $200 for it. Just wind it tighter with thicker copper and put Jap bearing's in from the start. I would happily pay double the price.

DiTTO...I got lucky on my V2 motor, nice tight windings, haven't changed shaft or bearinsg though
runs beauuudifully. What i think might be a good move is to pick up some electric winding spray
I spotted a can of it at local Coventry Fastners when buying some stainless steel cap scres, i forget
the exact brand and name but it is made for spraying on the windings of electrical motors
to coat them, I will pick up a can next time im there and try it out, for those with 'loose' windings
you might be able to stick them down so as not to have them catch on the magnets and wear through.

YPedal MaN, only windings i seenz darker than those are on one of Methys or Hyenas roasted frocks
that Asto looks like its had a hard life for sure...

KiM