docnjoj wrote:Hey LI-ghtcycle! That is a nice piece of work. I do have a question about having 13 lbs of rotating mass up that high. Have U noticed any problems with handling or gyroscopic reaction?
katou wrote:I am curious to see how this will look when it's all done. Do you have a drawing of how it will look after the mechanicals are done and cargo pods are attached?
Well, now I understand probably the main reason that the stoke monkey is a LH drive. Since I am using the motor, or hub to turn the sprocket, instead of a chain turning the hub, the motor's torque is now un-threading the sproket!
Rassy wrote:Well, now I understand probably the main reason that the stoke monkey is a LH drive. Since I am using the motor, or hub to turn the sprocket, instead of a chain turning the hub, the motor's torque is now un-threading the sproket!
Yep, That's why my mid-drive hub motor is "backwards" and the chain wraps under the sprocket. When my first freewheel gave out I did exactly what you did, but the lockring only had to keep the sprocket from unscrewing when I was pedaling without using the motor. I had used lock-tite and it worked fine until I got the ENO, but even after using it for a while it was still pretty easy to get it off, so without some sort of a key lock I wouldn't expect it to work against the power of the motor.
amberwolf wrote:You could just dremel out a deep rectangular groove in the threads, parallel to the axle, on both the hub threads and the sprocket (or freewheel) threads, and then insert a steel block into that groove. It'll act as a locking pin to keep them from moving.
Make it a bit longer than the groove so you can pull it out with vise-grips or similar, and you can then relatively easily remove it for repairs or gearing ratio changes. Use loctite on it to keep it from just falling out if you like, but mostly the forces across it's short side by the opposing faces of the groove will prevent it from moving along it's length.
Volt up, Gear down!
John in CR wrote:Here's my LH 9C mid drive solution. Note that once I test run and I'm happy with the gearing, if I think I need any more rear brake than regen, then I'll use longer bolts and spacers and put my 203mm disk on. That rear 44t is 183mm, so I may be able to squeeze my caliper. If not, I'll just go down a size. My front is a 28t giving me effectively a 13.5" wheel for the hubmotor with the 3"x20 Kendas (21.25" OD) I'm running on the bike. I'm gearing it so low because it's getting a high voltage controller with 148V fresh off the charger, so I should get billy goat climbing with a 9x7 in a 13.5" wheel and plenty of current, and a top speed of about 45mph.
I'm using chainring size sprockets so I can run bike chain without concern, because there's so much less force on the chain than something like a Cyclone that eats chains. Once I dial it all in, I'll probably go to a 218 chain, but this will do for now and gives me regen. Note that a 3rd hand is very helpful for clamping the sprockets to the cover and brake disk for accurately marking the holes and a caliper a must, at least for me.
spinningmagnets wrote:a "keyed shaft" is actually a great solution for a standard RH freewheel on a LH-sprocket mid-drive. An ENO freewheel could have the groove cut in it with a standard hardware store file. The square cross-section pin is called a key, and two of them would hold enough torque that you'd never come close to breaking them at the power levels you have mentioned.
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