To clarify what I meant at least, I feel that a "tweak" of the frame on alloy is safe. 5 mm more, to 140mm is only a 2.5 mm bend per side. I've seen alloy frames flex more than that because I pedaled that hard. Seems relatively harmless. It's just flexing the metal, not bent enough to be permanent and thus not creating a crack in the alloy tube.
But the problem is if it takes two hands to spread the frame a few mm, which hand drops the wheel in? Not everybody has a wife handy, or if you do, she may be off working to make the house payment as she should be.
So this method looks handy to pull the frame enough to easily slip in the wheel, along with that 2 mm of spacer washer that makes your disk caliper clear the motor housing.
On a steel bike, you can cold set the frame with much much much less risk of causing a crack that fails later. On my dirt bike for example, the frame is cold set to about 145mm, and I use the nut on one side to pull it back to the 140mm I have with my spacers. I just stood on one dropout, and pulled on the other to bend out the steel a tad. Cheap frame, so it bent easy as pie. On real cromo, I'd want to use the threaded rod to bend it more carefully.
THE LIPO RULES. NEVER ABOVE 4.3V NEVER BELOW 2.7V DON'T PUNCTURE
Ideal charging /discharging range for Lipo, 3.65v minimum 4.1v maximum
See battery technology section, FAQ thread at the top of the page for lipo noob info.