Diamondback XTS with a Magie Pie III I name thee MagicBack..

DeathBlade

100 W
Joined
Oct 18, 2008
Messages
111
Or maybe DiamondPie... :p

Well I got a new bike to replace my DiamondBack Response that I had with a Yescomusa 48v 1000watt hub on it. I think the hub was a PRO901, ( I have that for sale sans batteries) Since I'm putting the batteries on my new Diamonback XTS, That I scored that from a friend for $300 :D And I just ordered a MagicPie III from goldenmotor.ca which should be here soon.

Now for the plan I just bend up a set of batteries boxes out of .0625" aluminum tread plate I'll weld those up tomorrow. These boxes will hold four 6s 5ah zippy packs each . I'm going to mount each box on the upper swing arm(?) of the rear suspension with some threaded nut inserts. (if anybody want a semi nice nut insert tool try harbor freight its one of their decent tools). With these boxes I'll have (for now) 12s4p for a 48v 20ah pack for the time being I plan on run the internal MP3 controller and later if the stock controller survives. I'm thinking of putting in some new FETs and caps in it and seeing if I can run it at 24s2p for a fun 88v 10ah pack :D I got some 120v 60amp mosfets in a free sample a while back.

Now for the pictures,

And now a quick question, how to you think I could lower the bike a bit? my old Diamond back was a 19"~20" frame this is a 21" If I could lower it 1" it would be perfect. I know I have a bit of adjustment if the fork but looking at the rear? I see a bolt slot listing 6" and 7" (travel?) on the rear shock, thought looking at it I think adjusting it from 7" to 6" might make it higher. Any thoughts?

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My evil robot for makerfair detroit

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Cut the bottom of your seatpole off for extra clearance, and mount the top pin of your shock absorber higher up in the frame? That frame looks like you could move the top shocker munting plate by grinding out the current joining point, or bolting a bit of plate to the frame on either side near the current mounting location....

I know that kepler modified his shock's range awhile back, it's kinda related, maybe the pictures will give you ideas...
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34165&start=90
 
Well the bad happended :( I was going to go welded up some stuff, our powerwheels car for detroit, my battery boxes, etc, and I found someone stole my welder out of the back of my car :( :x :evil: :twisted:
Called up my insurance company and they said I could claim it but a new welder would be $550 and my deductible is $500.

But I did get the bike lowered down I moved the shock bolt up in the frame gueset and move the shocks up in the fork for a 3/4" drop I could go more but I'll see how I like it did help a bit. Now to wait for the magic pie III to show up.
 
DeathBlade said:
Well the bad happended :( I was going to go welded up some stuff, our powerwheels car for detroit, my battery boxes, etc, and I found someone stole my welder out of the back of my car :( :x :evil: :twisted:
Called up my insurance company and they said I could claim it but a new welder would be $550 and my deductible is $500.

But I did get the bike lowered down I moved the shock bolt up in the frame gueset and move the shocks up in the fork for a 3/4" drop I could go more but I'll see how I like it did help a bit. Now to wait for the magic pie III to show up.


Maybe you had 2 welders in there... :twisted: or a cromotor or something.
 
I know, but that $550 is me already going up one level from the powermig 125 to the powermig 140 dont want to push it. :lol:
 
Any progress with this? I'm interested as I just lucked upon a Norco FS frame and I'm looking for inspiration. :mrgreen:
 
Well, I haven't got much done recently. Been working on the robot more :oops:
I've got the battery boxes mounted with some 1/8"x2 AL bar for bases and some 1/4 nut rivets in the upper swing arms to hold everything down.

Now I have to find a way to re-route my rear brake line, and how to integrate a switch into the brake levers. For the brake line I have to find a 90* elbow for bike brake lines if they exist, to get the brake line out of the way of the box.
For the switches I have a a couple reed switches and couple of neodymium magnets but I have to play around with the distance to the switch but it doesn't seam to be uniform when the switch triggers.
 
Finally thought I'd post a update, only two months :lol:
Well I made my battery boxes out of 1/16th" aluminum diamond plate, and mounted them to my top arms in the rear, and I wired in some small lever switches to my Haynes 9's and have a 7 speed free wheel and a tourney SL-TX50 7 speed shifter on the way to replace my 9 speed deore shifter I tried adjusting it forever in the hope to get it to work with a 6 speed but said screw it.
Now I have a couple of methods boards to wire in and some XT90s to solder (I melted a couple 5.5mm bullets on my zippys when I was cheap with my shrink wrap :lol: )

Though one think I keep finding is that I'm loosing spoke nuts, I take the wheel off put them back on and lose another couple it thought about locktiteing them but that would be bad.

Though now I'm thinking its time to do away with the stock internal controller and get an external controller(any recommendations?), my old 1000watt hub felt like is was more powerful, and to step up to 72v or 96v I'm leaning towards 96v I can make a series/parrallel connection so I can charge with 48v with my golfcart charger and then put in the jumper and go to 96v 10ah (right now my pack is 48v 20ah)
Now to just find a controller and some more diamond plate because I just cant leave it at 10ah (20 or 30 sounds better right ? :D )

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The big red Anderson is my on off switch :lol: the lids are kind of just sitting there for the picture I have the packs out balancing
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The blue foam I'm using inside make for a very tight fit I need to find something a tad thinner, (a friend dropped by a minute ago and he wanted to ride it so I slapped in two packs)
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And I put on a POV light kit on the front seems to only work around 7 to 12mph any faster and it can't keep up.
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Had to cut the shift lever to clear the throttle I need to find a better(thinner) throttle, so I can put the deore shifters back on but the tourney will work for now, I need gears no just being able to shift into two of them.
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And my wind turbine for makerfair
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And my now extra murdery murderbot

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Nice ride and nice murder bots. :D

I have a black diamond single that is very similar to your bike. I like the way you mounted the lipo, it keeps the front open and clutter free.

How would you compare the 1000w yescomusa kit to the MP3? After riding my bike my father in law wants to convert his dual suspension MTB. I'm thinking of the MP3 due to the simplicity and value. I want to make it as plug and play as possible for him. Planning on running at 48v 20ah. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions?
 
Between the yescomusa and the MP3 I can say the MP is plug and play and heavyduty but the brake levers and throttle etc in the MP3 seemed a little bit cheaper feeling, and strangely enough the the MP3 seems weaker than when I was running the yescom hub it might be my throttle or the controller could be not programmed correctly I didn't get the MP3 programming cable. One of the reasons I want to move away from the internal controller, I don't think its giving me enough amps.

As for the yescom kit it was simple enough if your setting it up, it many more wires than the MP3 but if the controller ever goes your not taking apart the hub to get to it. And its cheaper so get more money for batteries and a BMS.
 
Upgrade time, I swapped out the internal MP3 controller for one of lyens 12fet controllers :D (if anybody needs a internal controller let me know) and seeing now that I can go to 24s I'll have to get another couple of methods board.
And my hobbyking order came in so I put braided loom on the new 12gauge phase wires.
Also got my 8amp through balance lead chargers in.
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Out with the old
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In with the new
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Now for a beefier torque arm I'll see what I can turn up on my plasma table tomorrow at work.


Seeing as there is a pelican case thing going on recently (look a bandwagon! Jump!) So I picked up a pelican 1300 case and hit up lowes for some pipe hangers. I know they look crappy, but a minute ago I found a 2"x.75" aluminum bar on my work bench so tomorrow I'll go buy a 1.25" hole drill and make some new clamps. For my old battery boxes as much as I liked my diamondplate boxes, I'll take them off and put in some 30cal ammo cans, to cover the holes and to use as tool storage.

Lipo in a box
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Little update, I got my pelican case mounted and bolted my 12fet lyen to the back, added my patent pending on/off switch(nothing like a 50amp anderson for a switch :D ), extended my phase wires a little bit. Milled a new clamping torque arm out of 3/8" stainless murdering a few drillbits and a 5/16 roughing endmill in the process.
And soldered XT90s on all my lipo. And made my new wiring harnesses for my 6s packs first a set of 2P2S with a end for going to 2P(2P2P) esentially paralleling two 48v pack then a series end to go to 2P4S for my 96V
Now I need two more of methods boards. And need to figure out a torque arm for the other side.

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