Everything Seems OK But Hub Motor Not Responding

i have 48v1000w front hub motor.

rim disconnected from fork when i was driving yesterday (loose cap screws) and cable tangled 2 rounds.

+i tried another hub motor and it worked fine.
+controller is working fine.
+throttle is working fine.
+current is flowing to motor without problem (checked 3 thick and 5 slim cables GBY)

but when i plug cables, motor don't move, no sound, nothing...

what am i missing? any ideas?

you say you checked current flow to motor. how exactly did you do that ?

If you have any easily measurable current flowing through the thin wires then that is surely a problem. The levels of current on those wires is milli if not micro amps




I think you are maybe meaning that you have checked VOLTAGE rather than current.

I'd say there is a break in the wiring somewhere

when the motor spun it likely twisted up the wires in the axle until they either split through their insulation and shorted out, or outright broke. you'll need to inspect the insulation on the part of each wire that runs through the axle, then check each of the 8 for continuity. When twisted that way, they can break inside the insulation with no visible sign.

This is why you need torque arms. properly installed, they would have prevented this kind of problem.

i controlled with "amperemeter" two sides of cables check if there is any disconnection in-between. (from motor solders to controller connection jack side)

every single cable is ok. thats the thing driving me mad. i will check it again.

you think if cables are ok, it should work?

Drunkskunk said:

This is why you need torque arms. properly installed, they would have prevented this kind of problem.

Click to expand...

yes i definitely need torque arms. i could have had an accident.

If the wires did not cut the insulation and cause a break or short, then two possibilities remain.

A bad contact at the plug, halls or phases, or a hall sensor is not working.

I just thought of a third possibility. Did you have to rearrange the plug to run the other motor? Did you change a wire, but not put it back the same again?

dogman said:

If the wires did not cut the insulation and cause a break or short, then two possibilities remain.

A bad contact at the plug, halls or phases, or a hall sensor is not working.

I just thought of a third possibility. Did you have to rearrange the plug to run the other motor? Did you change a wire, but not put it back the same again?

Click to expand...

i tried different hub motor with different cables to check if the other parts working correctly. (throttle, controller etc. ) so i didn't remove any cables (inside motor)

hall sensors solders and connections everything looks normal. cables are OK too :? it doesnt make any sense.

i will check everything again tomorrow. its 12:10am in Turkey

Yeah, people thought I lived in china because I get up so early for the US.

I meant test the halls to see if they actually toggle on and off, as you rotate the hub. I've had some odd halls failures. Run fine, park bike, next day the halls don't work. Usually, that's when I park it hot, but not always.

Re the wires, I thought you might have changed the positions on the plugs to run the other motor, then not put them back. Once you do take two wires out of a plug housing, I certainly have at least a 50 50 chance of putting them back wrong and not seeing it right away.

it turns out hall sensors are ruined

i replaced the hall sensors and it works now.

Good troubleshooting on your part. It is generally easier to check these things before you take the motor apart. Using a cheap Motor Tester can save you a lot of time. Here is one from em3ev but they are available from many suppliers.

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=87

otherDoc

dogman dan said:

If the wires did not cut the insulation and cause a break or short, then two possibilities remain.

A bad contact at the plug, halls or phases, or a hall sensor is not working.

I just thought of a third possibility. Did you have to rearrange the plug to run the other motor? Did you change a wire, but not put it back the same again?

Click to expand...

Hey Dan,
Last night I was enjoying my e-bicycle, and parked it in my room before going to bed. Morning when I woke up and thought of taking a ride, I connected everything and motor doesn't seem to work, just like the mustaftahir's bike...
I checked every connection but when i put throttle , there is no motion in the motor.!!
After reading your explanation and mustaftahir's troubleshooting, even I'm thinking now to check the hall sensors,..
Could you just help me out how to test whether hall sensors are functioning or not?
Till then I will try to check the throttle, controller on other motor.!

Should be a decent explanation in the wiki, or the tech reference section. Here's a quick version.

Easiest thing is go to ebay, and get a brushless motor and controller tester. Usually less than 20 bucks, well worth it if you have a real interest in ebikes, more than one motor, etc.

The hard way, get a multimeter, and a 5v battery, or power source. NO more than 5v. Halls can't handle 6v.

Connect the 5v+ to the red halls wire, Connect the 5v- to the black. Take the multimeter, connect the - to the black wire. Take the + of the multimeter, and connect to the yellow, blue, or green wire. When you spin the wheel, a good hall sensor will turn on and off as the wheel spins. Test each color one by one.

If the motor is apart, you can wave a magnet near the halls to simulate the motor spinning.

dogman dan said:

Should be a decent explanation in the wiki, or the tech reference section. Here's a quick version.

Easiest thing is go to ebay, and get a brushless motor and controller tester. Usually less than 20 bucks, well worth it if you have a real interest in ebikes, more than one motor, etc.

The hard way, get a multimeter, and a 5v battery, or power source. NO more than 5v. Halls can't handle 6v.

Connect the 5v+ to the red halls wire, Connect the 5v- to the black. Take the multimeter, connect the - to the black wire. Take the + of the multimeter, and connect to the yellow, blue, or green wire. When you spin the wheel, a good hall sensor will turn on and off as the wheel spins. Test each color one by one.

If the motor is apart, you can wave a magnet near the halls to simulate the motor spinning.

Click to expand...

Sorry to be “the one” but your claimed supply voltage limitation only applies to (p) version sensors which contain an internal pull-up resistor. Straight-up S411’s (majority of hub motors I’ve worked with) spec/tolerate between 4.5-30VDC supply.

I don’t suggest using 30V for testing hall sensors but as long as they’re NOT SS411P versions a person could rig a test setup using 12VDC if more convenient.

Here’s a good page to bookmark and use for all types of troubleshooting including hall sensors:

http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html

If you need to test Hall sensors without a controller here’s a thread I posted some pics of a crude test setup a while back:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=57053&hilit