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Gatzloc said:

.. A 48v15ah Li-Po battery and The Alloy 07 case + rack
Will this work with the 36v 500w motor (read that it should; ready to replace motor if it doesn't),

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Yes, its possible to over-volt a motor, since the controller will in most instances limit the power delivered and according to a power input signal - throttle. 48V makes sense, where more makes less and less sense. Its more typical for the same wattage to configure in parallel.

and did I order a bad controller (as in should have gotten the S12SH 800w 35a one).

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My thoughts on the controller were that 35a + 800w will be too much for a motor that was 500w + 20a before (Prodeco controller is 36 v + 20a).

The one I got is 750w + 29a I think (read on google somewhere).

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You're almost certainly likely to head into the danger zone on this. Ultimately its the amperage delivery into the motor that will be the problem. Current, like a river, flows where it will until it meets resistance - a force that limits current flow to less than its upstream component. You've got greater amperage flowing into the motor and may ultimately fry it. Depends on the motor and how much it was over-engineered.

You need to work the other way - from motor through wire to controller and battery. You can keep your motor and match components to it, or go ahead and fry it, having to replace it to then upgrade to something that then can handle the power. Its not what I'd do, but hey, if you've got the money and want to do this experiment, go for it! A simpler experiment would be to plug a 110V appliance into a 220V outlet and see what happens (kids, please don't try this experiment at home).

I figured if I multiply the v * a * w I would get something like a motor power draw.

The default would be: 360,000
The S12P (@48v) : 1,044,000
S12SH (sine wave @48v): 1,344,000

So I would already be putting 3x the current or w.e so I thought not to push it.

I also like a bit of noise 8)

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This is just a mish-mash of confusion and completely unnecessary. Most hub motors will have a label. You can also look at a posted datasheet, or call a vendor of the motor and talk it out. The key thing to remember is that for a motor, it has a stated power in watts for a rated voltage (what the battery will deliver) and amperage (current, so what wiring, controllers, etc. are rated to handle). So over-amping will ultimately find its point of resistance and melt that component. Could be a wire, a connector or some internal component to the motor.

Am I correct in my thinking? Part of the reason I am trying this, is because I am going into electrical eng. in sept so I want to familiarize myself.

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Good luck with that, so this little experiment is just a learning exercise, huh? Alright then, go ahead and fry something. Just remember not to touch the hot thingee.

I thought of just getting a new lighter 36v battery, but when I looked at how many watt hours I was getting for my money the 48v one was the most cost efficient.

I figured I should get a new battery because at full throttle the 12ah runs down fast. I've seen it run out in under 16k during winter. I did take it for almost 20k last wed. but that was definitely not at full throttle more a 30% motor thing.

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Oh, I was mistaken - seems like the cost of things does matter to you (usually does). So I take that back, don't fry anything.

Yea, alright. At least you're thinking about this stuff and asking questions. So most kits come with a matched set of components, including a motor and controller. Some (like Falco) are now building the controller into the motor itself. The point is - they come together. With brushless direct drive motors dominating now, having the right controller gets even more problematic. So you can't just buy any old controller and expect it to work. Part of the matching is that they've been co-engineered so as to deliver the right amperage at the right time, not too little, not too much. Its upping the controller and the battery both to deliver greater power to the motor, which may then be exceeded for what it can handle that may give you difficulty.

Your motor should work OK with that controller. Just be careful not to let it slow down too much on the hills. If it starts to struggle, it'll overheat.

This thread is a mish mash, but that's not at all unusual here.

Start with your motor, It's a typical 28 mm magnet motor. Lots of testing of them here, lots of flames shooting out of em. Here's what we know, the motor itself can stand 3000w for short periods, but 2000w is about the most I will ever recommend unless the fun of watching the flames shoot out is the goal.

So what's 2000w? Its controllers max amps, x actual volts. take 48v, Call it 50v for easy math, a 30 amps controller will give you 1500w, but you may see brief spikes up to about 1650w. That won't fry the motor, and you could even run it on a 40 amps controller with a low risk of melting it.

YOU MAY have to put thicker phase wires on it to run 2000w. Very likely more than 1000w will be too much for the wires you have now.

Ok, so you chose a 48v 40 amps controller. Now the question is, can the battery last if you give it 40 amps at every stop sign? Likely not. That much power will not be possible for long with a cheap low c rate battery.

BATTERY, that's what is going to be your problem. So make sure you are getting a battery that can dish it out. Whatever they say it can do, cut that in half if you want it to last. Unless you have some very good cells inside, you will need a big battery to dish out 40 amps and last for years.

You might look into the 10c rated batteries at EM3ev. In a 15 ah size, you'd be running 40 amps at just over 3c, with a 10c rating. That should not murder your battery.

Yeah, hard to make heads or tails of this thread.
I think the motor is probably a BPM.
The sine wave controller is the S12S!
It's about 23 Amps and is good with the BPM

The S12S is 23 amps. The S12SH is 35A, which is probably too much for a 500w motor at 48v

To answer an old question, all the S series controllers have a switch on the LCD that effectively isolates the controller from the battery, so no additional ignition or battery switch is required, which is a big advantage over some other controllers. My choice would be the S12S rather than the S12P. I don't know about efficiency but it works very well with a Bafang BPM or CST.

Prodeco makes things to fit prodeco only you will have to chop everthing up for your exchange idea.
Most prodeco's run a d.d. that looks like a 9c maybe 28mm or less.