Scott High Octane 250w ebike

Hi,

I had a MXUS 48V 250w 24" wheel and controller left over from a project a couple of years ago and saw your cool free ride ebikes. I have this Scott bike and thought I throw the 24" wheel on to test. I borrowed a 48V battery and its really nice to cruise the woods on it. Even thou its only 250W.

At the moment I have no battery. I use a bunch of old 3S 2200mAh LiPos that wont work for my RC helicopter anymore because they are worn (4 packs in series is 44.4V and its actually working quite nice. The controller low volt cut is around 40V.

So, my question is. Is there anyone else who used a Scott High Octane for an ebike. And is there any battery to by that may fit this frame?

Here is a picture on it from the first test. I dont think the 24" wheel looks that strange on it..

Nice enough bike, but no, there is nothing made to fit a battery to that frame. The main options are,

1 seatpost rear rack. Generally sucks unless the battery is very small. 12-14s 5 ah won't feel bad back there at 4 pounds. Anything over 10 pounds will feel shitty, and perhaps even break the seatpost.

2 Saddlebag type carry on the top of the frame. This can be small boxes, or bags. One on each side of the top of the frame, as close to the forks as you can carry it without bashing the battery with the forks in turns. This will carry the most battery, but can interfere with pedaling if the boxes are large. 48v 5 ah of lipo on each side works ok for many.

3 Handlebar bag or box.

dogman said:

...Saddlebag type carry on the top of the frame...

Click to expand...

Stumbled upon these a few weeks ago and bought a few:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321228207007?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

They can hold 2qty 4S-6S 5Ah bricks in each side with room for extra padding and/or BMS board. Perfect for my latest Swiftfolder project or Y frame bike.

Good quality and these happen to be larger than many of the bike "top tube saddlebags" offered on eBay.

Thank you guys. I may have to spread out a bunch of smaller batteries if i want to have bigger Wh in the future then. I was also thinking in moving the controller down to the back swing. That bag looks awesome

I have tried the 15cm and 17cm bags that proliferate ebay and neither held my 135mm long 4s pack. I spent an awful lot of time asking people to actually measure them. Eventually finding chenping27 who's bag is 18cm long. I have had two now. £3.99 (6usd) delivered.

The army one looks good with it's reinforcement webbing and 7cm depth verse the 5cm of the bags I got.

For my next bag build, I will make a cradle that sits over the top bar, and use the bag as just a cover by cutting the back out of each pocket. Getting creative with wide black elastic to partly replace the backs.

I will build the cradle with tough garden mesh. Just like I used in my yginrut thread.

Best of luck with it

FWIW, what I do now on my off road bike is carry 4.5 pounds of battery on a seatpost rack. Then for longer rides I put another 4.5 pound 5 ah 48v pack on the handlebars in a bag.

I don't ride the same since I got sick, so plodding along at 10-15 mph with 48v and steady pedaling is now my off road style.

Before, I rode with a huge 72v pack carried in boxes on either side of the mid frame. (y frame fs bike) It sucked to pedal, but I rarely did pedal. 3000 w of power. Just hanging on and steering was a heavy duty workout, just like riding a motocross motorcycle is.

This is how I carry 15 Ah's of 12S Lipo on my FS trail bike;







2) Turnigy 6S\5Ah in the welding rod holder that is mounted in a water bottle holder.
2) Turnigy 4S\5Ah in each side of the Roswheel sm. over top-tube saddle bag.
2) Turnigy 4S\5Ah (1 hardcase) strapped under the rear rack.

6s + 6S = 12S
4S + 4S + 4S = 12S
4S + 4S + 4S = 12S

Looks good! 15Ah would be nice. Is there any good controller that work with 44V? Version2 is definitely going to be a stronger motor. .

This is my current fav. controller for mini-motors
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-350W-9-Mosfets-E-Bike-Motor-Controller-with-LED-meter-/321528742793?pt=Other_Sports_Fan_Shop&var=&hash=item4adc9b4389

It is inexpensive, simple to use, quiet and smooth. They have 3-speed limiting and cruise control and they work well. Have not tried the PAS.
The 42V LVC is perfect for 12S, shutting down at a cell level of 3.70V. This is exactly where my Turnigy cells start to stray.

There is a 19 Amp version that I use on a MXUS mini(larger than yours)

They are a little large, but short in lenght. They fit in the Roswheel mini saddle bags

Thank you,
It looks similar to the one I got. When I have a better battery setup I will test the voltage cut off better.

How do you charge all those batteries? All at the same time with a voltage cut at maximum. Or one and one with a balanced charger.

motomech said:

This is my current fav. controller for mini-motors
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-350W-9-Mosfets-E-Bike-Motor-Controller-with-LED-meter-/321528742793?pt=Other_Sports_Fan_Shop&var=&hash=item4adc9b4389

It is inexpensive, simple to use, quiet and smooth. They have 3-speed limiting and cruise control and they work well. Have not tried the PAS.
The 42V LVC is perfect for 12S, shutting down at a cell level of 3.70V. This is exactly where my Turnigy cells start to stray.

There is a 19 Amp version that I use on a MXUS mini(larger than yours)

They are a little large, but short in lenght. They fit in the Roswheel mini saddle bags

Click to expand...

How do you charge all those batteries? All at the same time with a voltage cut at maximum. Or one and one with a balanced charger.

Click to expand...

Yes, I can that the pics I posted would be confusing as to charging. That bike is in the process of being rewired. That is why there are so many loose wires. Using 3 X 4S batteries will complicate charging a bit, but it's a trail bike that I won't ride that much.
Here's an example of my daily driver that is set up for easy charging.;





Both of my bikes are 2WD and use septarate battery packs, 5Ah in the tube for the frt. and 10Ah in the triangle bag for the rear, the primaray motor.
The main pack is a simple 6S + 6S = 12S paralleled to 12S \ 10 Ah.
Extra connectors are inserted into the harness for the Thunder 1220 12S charger. Nothing needs to be dis-connected, just plug in the charger leads and start it.
It is a balance charger, but I found connecting balance leads to a paraboard to be finicky and time consuming.
Instead, if I need to balance cells(rarely), I use Battery Medics during and\or after the charge. They are great.
If I run the pack all the way down, it takes about an hour and 15 minutes to charge.
The charger shuts off automaticialy at the value that I pre-set.

Thank you. That is a lot of juice in there. And a really cool bike.
I was thinking if I just connect all batteries and chrarge at the sum voltage only. Just balace the packs now and then. But then I will loose some Ah and I risk to over heat cells I guess. I may have to buy a new chrger. I only have the 6bs now. If I stick to 6S lipos I may make it with a 6S chrger but I have to charge one at the time then..

Just storing how I made the PAS and breake throttle cut on this bike if anybody is interested.

The PAS sensor is glued in to a plastic m3 distance that is striped on to the bottom bracket with zipties. The distance is drilled with a 4mm drill to fit the sensor. The magnet disc is carved out with a demel to fit the diameter. All build from a sheap aliexpress.com PAS system. It works really good and no modifications sre made on the bike. See picture below.

The throttle cutoff breaks was also ordered on aliexpress. Its a inductive sensor but I needed a magnet to make it work. I simply used dubble sided adhesive tape an a ziptie to mount the sensor and glued two peases of a magnet from an old brushless outrunner on the break handle. See picture below.

This is what my first battery pack will be made of. I have gathered and tested some old lipo batteries. mostly 3s and a couple of 2s. No good for helis but potentially good for 250W ebike. I hope it will be good for 2.2x3x0.7= 4.6Ah to use. Minimum should be 3.5Ah.


For long term battery solution I think of round litium cells like the 18650. That should be the cheapest 20Ah battery and easiest way of splitting the battery up in different places on the bike. If I'm not wrong somewhere. (10 x UltraFire 3.7V 4200mAh 18650 NCR =21Eur.)
http://www.ebay.de/itm/10-UltraFire-3-7V-4200mAh-18650-NCR-Li-Ionen-LED-Taschenlampe-Akku-Batterie-/281175039598?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Akkus&hash=item4177569e6e
EDIT:
Or even surprisingly sheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-UltraFire-18650-5000mAh-3-7V-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-for-LED-Flashlight-/400766587654?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5d4f8cd306 ??? Are those for real?
EDIT again:
No, its not for real obviously, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOshOXcSkDA

New battery found http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__74100__Multistar_12000mah_6S_10C_EU_Warehouse_.html

This drive chain is not very efficient. So I need a bigger battery. especially now in wintertime. Here is my old batteries for a run (12x3S)

Documenting progress.

The 12Ah battery fitted perfectly in to the frame. The other one is going to be placed in a box lower down on the frame. Other things I made is the controller box and mudflaps. Tonight I also fitted the Hope disc breaks. Next picture



These breaks are porn. Its a little mc break eye candy. I had to machine the holder 2mm out and get an adapter from the thread to the disc. I also glued it because I didnt trust those small aluminum threads.

Adaper link: http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6242201938.html?orderId=63812282632070

New 12Ah 12S battery, first 30 minutes run.
Its not super impressive but I'm able to run longer distances now Top speed is 25Km/h. In wintertime its OK. But it feels kind of slow for this bike.