my 48/1000 wheel kit showed up. Rr whl binding (solved)

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And Fast too! ($205 from NJ)
I ordered it on Wednesday, and got it by Friday! But of course, It could have taken all week since the battery is probably a week away.

The box wasn't in great shape and I feared that the rim was bent at first, but nope it's true. I have a spoke wrench incase it's not.

Which tire would you use? meatier original Knobby tire, in great shape, and matching front tire, or rear tire that came with the kit? Sorry for the not so great pic's.

Calibike 48v 15ah 30a triangle battery on the way.

Tire depends on your needs. If you will be riding 90% or more on the street, then for sure dump the knobbies. But I'd keep the knobs, if you ride as much as 25% in dirt that's hilly.

Thank you!
I do want to ride in the dirt. But I'm thinking that 90% of my riding will be street /paved...so keeping the new tire will probably be my best bet.

Then I'll play it by ear. with the trail's. If the stocker ebike smoothie is no good, then I'll run the Knobby again. It wasn't bad once I'd inflate it to 60psi. Low rolling resistance as compared to running it at 40psi.. Seems like it should be more robust against punctures too. I'll have it handy just incase.

Thanks for the advice, all set.

I use the super thick slime tube as a rear flat is trouble on the road. Walmart for 12.00 usd.
Plus a torque arm is needed.
Let us know how things work out and how the battery works.
Remember to charge battery and leave on charger for balancing. Don't go and run the battery flat just to see. Charge it. As alot of people run the battery to cutoff right out of the box before charging and balancing. I like to break it in.
What's the at the door price on the battery ?
Good luck.

999zip999 said:

I use the super thick slime tube as a rear flat is trouble on the road. Walmart for 12.00 usd.
Plus a torque arm is needed.
Let us know how things work out and how the battery works.
Remember to charge battery and leave on charger for balancing. Don't go and run the battery flat just to see. Charge it. As alot of people run the battery to cutoff right out of the box before charging and balancing. I like to break it in.
What's the at the door price on the battery ?
Good luck.

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I have one of those- The torque arms are is included in the pack ( it's a torque washer ) - Seems OK, but doesn't have a lot of throw - anyway, it's well slotted in, though I had to remove the plugs and reinstall it the correct way around on mine... I got the 500w model, but they all look the same. It's not difficult to install an external one anyway - when installed, mine seemed fine so I left it stock.

I'm running mine on a 24v controller - and kept the stock tire. I didn't like it, but I figure I'll run it until it's worn and then replace it with something decent. Also, the rim wasn't true on mine and will require some adjustment of the spokes to true it up.

Regards
David

Those cute little torque washers aren't enough. You need at least one torque arm.

The tires that come with the kits are decent but small. First thing to do is to remove it and the tube and check for rim tape. I'd then replace that tire with a 2.1-2.3" tire for a better ride. That's probably a 1.75" tire and the rim should be ~25mm inside. Also check for loose spokes.

Thanks...

To answer some questions...Batt. shipped to door...$550. Includes triangle case.48v 15ah 30a. I could have done 500 and make up my own carrying bag..
From California so no duty fee's.

I love rushing into thing's and have encountered a few issues just trying to mount the rim. I filed the rear slots a tiny bit to help the wheel go in easier. I had to tap with a hammer (on the axle nut installed losely to protect the threads) One side would drop in and the other would lift out almost like the axle was bent... but eventually I got them both down in their seats.

Now, that I want to check the tire for the suggestions above it's going to be tough because I've got the wheel beat into place if I have to change anything.

As I type this, I think I'm going to try to remove the rim again, because of issue #2; I can't use the lowest gear as it's installed. It rides to close to the frame. Looks like I'll need to file/dremel a bit there.
And I probably want to order a torque arm. (Funny, my hobby automobile...a 1978 chevy monza spyder..used a torque arm to keep the V8 from twisting the rear axle away from the unibody).

My rim will actually need some truing too.. side to side is decent but there seems to be some slight up and down issue that could be the tire or the spokes. Going to check for loose ones next.

Lastly...I got the bike upright and when I go to pedal it makes a noticeable click right off the bat. then it seems normal. Is this normal behavior? No battery or electronics hooked up yet, battery is on the way.

"wheel beat into place" --- have you considered the ramifications of a flat far from home?

2old said:

"wheel beat into place" --- have you considered the ramifications of a flat far from home?

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I hear ya. Murphys law is sure to strike on this one, how ever I have riden many many miles over the years and have rarely had to deal with a flat. It has happened, back in my BMX and 10 speed days.

I'm sure I have a lot more stress on the rear tire, thereby increasing the chances.

When riding in remote areas any eBiker worth their keep should be able to patch 97% of tube punctures without un-mounting the wheel. As long as you can find the puncture location, it's usually possible to pop the bead and pull the tube out enough to patch. Stuff it back in, line everything up, inflate and be on your way. Of course you'll need to have an air pump (I use 12VDC), patch kit, tire irons and preferably disposable gloves.

Ykick, thanks for the great suggestion; the only flat I've had (thankfully discovered after arriving home) was a ripped valve core. Needless to say, this required removing the tire to repair.

Got the new brake levers on. My Grip-Shift shifters are gonna have to go... the brake cabling really hinders their use.. Add new shifters to my bike store supplies list. Gonna try to use them as is.

Cushion Seat, fenders, lights, maybe rear cargo rack.

Rear wheel question/ trouble?...

Earlier I took my bike for a test ride with no battery. I didn't have the wheel on snug but not fully tightened. I pedaled nice and I noticed not to much difference from my regular bike. Great.

I just got done finally mounting my wheel. To get enough clearance between the chain and the dropout flange in low gear, I used one of the exterior washes on the inside of the dropout flange. that gave me perfect clearance and all the gears are now happy again. The wheel is straight. Maybe shifted only the slightest amount. Should work fine. everything seemed perfect

The issue came once everything was fully tight and I went on my next test drive. The bike is suddenly really hard to pedal. It either vibrates like I'm on a very knobby tire going flat. Or is gets smooth but feels like the brakes are clamped down and is really a drag to pedal. Is this normal? Do I have a faulty wheel? I checked for any obvious binding, there is nothing visibly wrong or making contact. Freewheel works fine.

I just flipped the bike over and tried to pedal by hand. It's tough and the more force you use the more the motor resists... Normal??

You have 2 of the 3 phase wire ends touching each other, or you have caused a short in them someplace. When the phases short, the motor starts acting like a huge generator. If it was all 3 touching, the motor would resist you almost effort for effort. But with only 2 touching, it resists you with a little less than 1/3 your effort

Oh my gosh thank you, could it be this easy? This would make total sense, as just before I rode I stuffed the wires into small sack to keep them out of the way. I would say it's very likely they would have been contacting eachother...

I just got up and took the wires out of the pack...this was 100% it! Wheel back to normal, Whew! thanks Dude, I was really feeling kinda bummed out.. rock on!!


Is there any chance I damaged the hub in the short time i tried to ride it? maybe 50 to 100ft.

SnowDog2112 said:

Oh my gosh thank you, could it be this easy? This would make total sense, as just before I rode I stuffed the wires into small sack to keep them out of the way. I would say it's very likely they would have been contacting eachother...

I just got up and took the wires out of the pack...this was 100% it! Wheel back to normal, Whew! thanks Dude, I was really feeling kinda bummed out.. rock on!!


Is there any chance I damaged the hub in the short time i tried to ride it shorted out? maybe 50 to 100ft.

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Not likely - You would have generated a couple hundred watts maybe, but not long enough to melt anything or burn anything - though perhaps a little at the connectors. It was all probably dissipated as heat and a hundred meters of riding wouldn't be enough to heat things up too much.

I tried that out while riding to see what the effect was and pedalled against it for a while, until it becamse too hot in my hands to hold, then let it go -

Regards
David.

SnowDog2112 said:

Is there any chance I damaged the hub in the short time i tried to ride it? maybe 50 to 100ft.

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Near zero. there is only a tiny risk that current passed through the hall sensors, which might have damaged them. they are repairable if that happened, but it's unlikely in the extreme.

Otherwise, there is no risk to the motor. you would have needed to generate 30 times more power than the average human rider puts out and sustain that for 20 minutes or more before there would be an actual risk. Unless your name is Clark Kent or Bruce Banner, you're not going to have a problem.

What you experienced is the same thing that happens in regenerative braking. It's harmless.

Hi guys,

Is your kit from ALLinONE168 inSecaucus, New Jersey for 205.95? I've been eyeing it on ebay for awhile and trying to find reviews. There was a recent sale on ryobi 18v li-ion batteries( 2 pack 18v4 ah for 25$) and I built a 54v 12Ah battery from them. If this kit is good, i'll grab one. yescomusa and thelashop has been out of stock and a little more expensive.

I'm a longtime lurker. Thanks in advanced.

Yep same one ...

I havent atually tried mine out yet, battery is still enroute. Box for it, was a little beat up on arrival. But that was probably the shipper. But so far so good. Twist throttle. would have liked a thumb but I can upgrade later.

Drunkskunk said:

Those cute little torque washers aren't enough. You need at least one torque arm.

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Something about that statement kept bugging me for a while, so I went and had a look - 15mm axle, with 2 faces at 10mm dia and the washer, fitting into a 10mm slot set into 7mm aluminium sheet...

Nope, no washer's needed, but they serve an important task of keeping the wheel hub away from the frame, and do provide secondary anti-rotation protection in case of severe damage to the frame not noticed during assembly.

So in the case of my bicycle, at least, the existing flange is strong enough to handle the torque even without the torque washers, but the washers do make it easier to ensure it's all aligned correctly and might take some of the load off the plate around the axle if wear began to occur.

Regards
David

cj7hawk said:

Drunkskunk said:

Those cute little torque washers aren't enough. You need at least one torque arm.

Click to expand...

So in the case of my bicycle, at least, the existing flange is strong enough to handle the torque even without the torque washers, but the washers do make it easier to ensure it's all aligned correctly and might take some of the load off the plate around the axle if wear began to occur.

Click to expand...

That's been disproven time and time again. Search the forums for spun axles and destroyed dropouts.

Torque arms/plates are needed for most all installations if you have aluminum dropouts. Aluminum is so soft it will crumble easily. If you have steel dropouts, they will rarely be required. Just make sure you install the axle nuts, torque washers, etc. properly and check the axle nuts periodically. I check mine at least once a year. They have never come loose since using jam nuts inside the dropouts about 3 years ago. That's with up to 4KW and regen braking.

OK, ok, I stand corrected - I failed to take into consideration some of the crazy levels of torque that different people are attempting to elicit from their hub motors.

I assume that no one actually makes a suitable torque arm then? LoL! People saying spanners are breaking. I suppose if the torque levels are that high, then perhaps they need something laser-cut from 10mm steel

But I was still wrong.

Regards
David

OP I ordered the same kit and it arrived today. Hopefully we'll both be testing this weekend! It's funny that as soon ordered it, another kit became available for 245 that included an lcd ( sold out now, xcceries on ebay). If you find an lcd( cheap) for this system, could you post it? I'm having no luck.