mudguards, lights & Seats

been happily riding my ebike the last few weeks to work, using the q128c motor and KT? integrated controller/battery from BMSbattery

The current wiring is using all higo connectors. (I will get some photos up soon of it, flickr has decided to close my account down because my local ISP moved their mailboxes from Yahoo!)

Have a few of questions below:
Mudguards:
Have a 29er hardtail, plan to get bigger tires later on, is there any mudguards that people would recommend? I dont have a rear rack/pannier and have no plans to add one. Some of the rear mudguards look like spoilers to me! I would prefer a sleek looking kit if possible

I'm a little overwhelmed with the choice on the net, and so many different opinions, the LBS are useless here (most dont want to help me or have no stock)

Lights:
Saw this light recommended in another thread https://www.ebay.com/itm/121990330633?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Is there any that would integrate with my current system? i.e. any higo spliters and light controllers people would recommend?

im after rear and front lights too

Seats:
my seat has never been comfortable, is there any seats people would recommend? (again the online shops are more helpful here than most LBS)
I do tend to ride a little aggressive at times, so not really after a cruiser? seat as much
I can live without changing the seat, but was curious with what people would recommend or are using.

Well, if you want to run a fatter tire, and want a rear fender/mudguard, then you do want to add a rear rack. OK, its ugly, but you don't like the look of the bike racer stripe up your back either do you? A simple fender can be made from nearly anything soft or bendy, attaching to the bottom of the rack, then extending down the seat tube. This method is sturdy, covers well, but allows the very fattest tires to run without packing up with mud, or scraping the fender when dry. On the front, I came to like the fork mounted fenders. they attach at the top of the fork, on the head tube. no stays. The high mount and no stays make it rattle proof, and any size tire can be used. This is how I like to set up my dirt ride, or at least the one I go mudding on. Because my bikes are full suspension, the rack is a seat post mount one.

Lights. Get over the idea it has to run off your bike battery. Modern Led lights run a very long time on a small battery. Yeah, sure, you do have to charge it if you ride night a lot, but I would not bother with it unless you rode at night daily. If you will only need to charge weekly, that is not such a big burden. Two 1 ah cells running an led should last 12 or more hours of use. If your battery does have a USB plug to tap into, then look for a light that can run on that plug. Otherwise, not worth doing a bunch of crap with voltage converters, unless you plan to put full size motorcycle lights on the bike.

I can't say about that particular one, but look at the lumens they claim. You want a bright one, but not blinding to oncoming cars. 500-1000 lumens seems good to me, I use an 800 lumen flashlight on my bike, with a rubber holder. Aimed right, its very bright but not blinding like a 2000 lumen led would be. Its brighter than the lights on an older car btw. Aim it low enough.

As for seats. Perhaps your problem is you sit on them? Not a joke, a real bike rider does not have nearly their entire weight on that seat. A racer might only have 10% of the weight on that saddle. Proper adjustment of seat height, handlebar height, and frame to your body is crucial to a comfy ass.

I know nothing about you or your bike, but I betcha the frame does not fit you, and or you have poor choices on the adjustments. You might consider consulting a very good bike shop about fitting your bike to you. Too low seat is a very common mistake, preventing you from standing the pedals more. Then the tilt of the seat can be a huge factor. Adjustment are needed so you sit the seat on your hip bones, not on the crotch.

As for the type of seat, many preferences out there. For me, for a 60-80 mile day, it has to be narrow enough to avoid chafing like a full on cruiser seat, but I definitely do need some stiff, not squirmy, cushion, and I like some springs on the seat. I don't have the ass that can take 60 miles on a racing saddle anymore. I'm old, and actually sit on the seat now. At 18, you could have removed my seat and I would not have cared.

Lastly, there is a certain amount of toughening of your crotch that is needed for longer rides, 20 miles on up. At that point also, you better not be wearing regular street clothes. The seam in jeans in particular, will rub a hole in your taint. ( aint dick or ass) My favorite trick is to take bike shorts I buy for a couple bucks at a thrift shop, and remove the chamoix from them. This is the sewn in pad covering the seam. Sew this into your riding pants. Or, spend a fortune on non spandex pants that come with them.

thanks for the update

I ended up getting the topeak defender xc1 and xc11 (front and rear)
Royal Selle lookin seat (similar one to Juiced crosscurrent which I really liked)

do Plan to get some lights, I think i will keep it simple and just get separate lights as you recommended