New Crystalyte 5403 Review by Doc

[grindz145]

Cromotor Vs 5403 drag race....


Seriously, this whole hubmotor thing... where will it end

[esoria]

WONDERFUL!!!!
Beautiful motor DOC, i'm really curious to see the difference with Cromotor, in performance!
I remember my 5404 and this is a great motor, only a bit heavy, but POWERFUL, this 5403 i think is VERY fast!

[Doctorbass]

what is the hub spoke hole size please?

hub spoke hole size : 211-212 mil

I guess I'm used to you posting in metric. Anyway, I guess I got the small spoke hole version.

Anyone know how many parsecs it is from spoke hole to spoke hole?

For your pleasure:
5.37 millimeter = 1.740298479e-19 parsec

[o00scorpion00o]

Ah Doc, you got out of bed at last!

Now please lace that motor up, get it on a bike and test. pleaseeeeeee

no more motor pics and data bla bla hurry up man!

[Andje]

guys, its not going to "go faster" then the 5303... the advantage will be seen when doc goes to a higher voltage AND amperage because it will last longer at those levels, but it's mostly thermal sinking that this extra motor width offers. It will give someone like doc an advantage since he was pushing that barrier before and can now push it harder, but at most it will survive and perform extreme amperage accel better because of a higher saturation point. Anyway, I'm just saying, i want a vid of it on the bike too, but jut watch docs old vids and pretend it's a thicker stator; it will be exactly the same to see everything but the temp sensors, which is just data anyway! The cool thing would be seeing how long it could MAINTAIN say 120km/h. I can put 95km/h WOT (10kw controller) through my current 5304 for my entire battery pack, but it heats up a lot more under hard accel/deccel, enough that at higher energy levels (120km/h prbly 20kw) it might burn up using a 1.5kw hour pack. Going to a 5403 wind and a higher voltage will get me the extra speed I want, and this thicker heavier motor is for lasting through that instead of burning. But just chucking it on my current bike would literally decrease performance due to the extra weight, and gain me only heat sink and maybe some acceleration if I changed my controller; as it is putting out 10kw would remain 10kw in the new motor.
Im actually most interested to see how disk brake callipers will be to fit on there. For some reason the dimensions look tight to me .

[Floont]

...Im actually most interested to see how disk brake callipers will be to fit on there. For some reason the dimensions look tight to me .

I, too, am very interested in what kind of clearance difficulties we will be running into... especially on the disk brake side.

[scriewy]

doc why you wanna put 10g phases if 2.74mm is already over 10g, 2.588mm = 10g

[Doctorbass]

doc why you wanna put 10g phases if 2.74mm is already over 10g, 2.588mm = 10g

It's because the existing wire are 11 gauge, not 10... also, the high resistant silicone skin of the wire is better than the existing fragile teflon wire

I never had any problem with the silicone wire used on phase wie.. but the teflon frafile thin skin can puncture easy and make short... or at high temp it become soft and even more fragile.

Doc

[gensem]

doc why you wanna put 10g phases if 2.74mm is already over 10g, 2.588mm = 10g

It's because the existing wire are 11 gauge, not 10... also, the high resistant silicone skin of the wire is better than the existing fragile teflon wire

I never had any problem with the silicone wire used on phase wie.. but the teflon frafile thin skin can puncture easy and make short... or at high temp it become soft and even more fragile.

Doc

Doc I very unlikely that you ll have trouble with teflon wires before roasting your winding.
I personally test all my wires in a 180c direct fire and they all survive, being silicon or teflon. I also find teflon coating weak, but the silicon is just as bad under pressure it just looks thick.

[Doctorbass]

doc why you wanna put 10g phases if 2.74mm is already over 10g, 2.588mm = 10g

It's because the existing wire are 11 gauge, not 10... also, the high resistant silicone skin of the wire is better than the existing fragile teflon wire

I never had any problem with the silicone wire used on phase wie.. but the teflon frafile thin skin can puncture easy and make short... or at high temp it become soft and even more fragile.

Doc

Doc I very unlikely that you ll have trouble with teflon wires before roasting your winding.
I personally test all my wires in a 180c direct fire and they all survive, being silicon or teflon. I also find teflon coating weak, but the silicon is just as bad under pressure it just looks thick.

I guess we probably had differents experience with these two kind of wires, but what i'm sure is that it's a good move. The silicone can be twisted have torsion, etc so when it exit from the axel, it's way less sensitive from puncture or skin damage!

I already had too many problem with the teflon wire. the tefon endout to crack easy after it had high temp. It become less flexible.

180 celsius is nothing fompare to the 260 celsius my 5303 had last summer!.. the guy that used my ebike came back from his ride and the motor was smoking alot!.. when i saw the stator temp on the bbq thermometer i saw 260 celsius and it was decreasing.. assuming that before i saw it, it could have been higher temp! ...

but guess what... it still work fine today!.. same inductance, same DC resistance, same fun!

the silicon wire are ok..

the teflon wire melt curiously at 260celsius... and the silicon are rated 200 celsius.. but from my own experience the turnigy silicon wire solved all my problem since i use them.

Doc

[hydro-one]

Doc you are an inspiration to us all!!

These CRYSTALYTE hub motors are alot of fun, until the axle breaks because water gets into the bearing, the bearing siezes and starts to spin on the shaft, until the shaft breaks at the wire exit landing, due to the excessive stress at at that point. /arrrrrggggg all because of the fact that when you get the motor , you have to do a bunch of modifications, which makes it impossible for water not to get into the bearing area. if you want your wires not to get chewed up, if you want to run hall sensors etc. blah blah blah kenny , max , rewire china, crap, shitty, three hundred bux a year or more to keep bike running just on motors, swapping rear wheels, respoking old motors, nine c cover plates all broken what to do !!!!

WHAT CANT THEY BUILD A GOOD HUB MOTOR, THE AXLE IS GARBAGE and so the rest of the design at the wire exit . Your motor axle just looks rediculous to me, how can it even support itself never mind the bike and you!! i wouldnt trust that thing clamped in a vice on the bench!!!!

sorry Doc - i like your torque plates design, have you thought of doing a pinch type design? because ultimately i think it was tension on the nut that killed my axle, too much is needed to prevent shaft from rocking in the dropouts with heavy forward/ regen due to slightly rounded dropouts , everyone knows the story

[hydro-one]

here is the pic, axle looks kinda "pencil like"

[Doctorbass]

Yeah.. the axel "look small" but it work.

If you use two good torque plate you will never get the axel to break.

The two nut are only to hold the motor in place not to squeeze the axel to avoid it from moving.

what should make the axel from not spining are the two parallel side in the torque plate, nothing else.

myve it can happen that the bearing seize but it ever happened to me on all 5 crystalyte hub motor i had.

I keep the motor hot enough so the water rarely stay in the liquid state!.. it vaporize and exit in the cooling holes

Doc

[hydro-one]

Yeah good one will you use any kind of boeing spray like ebike.ca uses now? corrosionx like the big boys use? or mabye impregnate the windings with the epoxy under vacuum. u know what canadian salt will do all those china parts in short order

[Andje]

who is this man?
hydro one, go bash another motor somewhere else?

[gensem]

260c what nice friend you have... Hum?
You are probably right about silicone wires under extreme conditions... Btw do you know where to buy colored ones?

[Doctorbass]

260c what nice friend you have... Hum?
You are probably right about silicone wires under extreme conditions... Btw do you know where to buy colored ones?

I know Lyen had some on his controller.. i buy mine at hobbyking but all the same color.. I just use Y G B color for the anderson connector.

[Floont]

.

[cassschr1]

I think Doc knows him and he's being sarcastic for fun.

[Floont]

I think Doc knows him and he's being sarcastic for fun.

Thanks!!!
I deleted my post.

[Doctorbass]

I think Doc knows him and he's being sarcastic for fun.

Ugh?.. hmm i was sarcastic without knowing i was sorry for any confusion.. I just meant that Lyen could be a source for tehse silicone colored wire... nothing else guys

Doc

[cassschr1]

I meant hydro-one.

[oatnet]

Has anyone gotten a 54xx with the axle for 150mm dropouts? I'm curious to see how that sorted out.

-JD

Edit: Hey, this is my 2000th post! After 5 years here!

Heck, I've seen some people rack up 2000 posts in a few months, then freely and widely offer advice, even though they haven't gotten their first ebike rolling yet. Just goes to show post count is not a good measure of experience and content contributed.

-JD

[Doctorbass]

Has anyone gotten a 54xx with the axle for 150mm dropouts? I'm curious to see how that sorted out.

-JD

Edit: Hey, this is my 2000th post! After 5 years here!

Heck, I've seen some people rack up 2000 posts in a few months, then freely and widely offer advice, even though they haven't gotten their first ebike rolling yet. Just goes to show post count is not a good measure of experience and content contributed.

-JD

I think i will need to use a single speed 14 tooth gear. i'll see.

[sabb]

Oatnet

The shaft is the same and we all got spacers to fit to a 150mm dropout

Stephen