My Axial Motor Project

Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
75
Location
Fife, Scotland
Hi guys, I am pretty new on here but been lurking for a while. I’ve been designing an axial brushless motor which I’m hoping will be able to produce about 100kw. I have a few problems and a lot of questions which I will go into in a bit but here’s a description of what I’ve got so far,

I am planning on having 12 coils and 16 magnets as I want to use wedge shaped magnets (arc segments) and 16 seems to be the only number I can find of the shelf with the right angles to make a complete circle of suitable size.
I also want to use a halbach array but rather than trying to find wedge magnets which are magnetised in the right direction I’m just going to use rectangular magnets between the wedges. I tried this arrangement on FEMM and while it’s not perfect I think it’s a good compromise.

These are the magnets I’m planning on using.

http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_15&products_id=457

http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_15&products_id=501

I would prefer to use the 1/2” thick ones but that would need 2”x1/2”x1/2” bar magnets to make the halbach array and that makes the backing disc just slightly too big to fit in my lathe. The 1/4” thick magnets will probably be strong enough with the hallbach array anyway so I will just have to go for them and save some cash. I could use the larger magnets if I don’t have a lip on the outside edge of the backing disc but I am concerned about holding such large magnets with only glue at 4-5000 rpm.

For the coils I’m intending on casting my own powder cores, I’ve tried casting some resin parts before and even helped a pall make a toilet seat with a Nintendo Gameboy in it a few years ago so I think it’s possible. I will be using Magnetite since it’s cheap but there are alloys available with higher permeability. The coils will be for a fairly low voltage for this sort of power range. From my calculations going this way will reduce losses but it will also make the control more difficult.
I also think keeping the voltage down has other advantages. Safety, simplified battery charger and BMS.

For the motor controller I had originally thought about building the power stage and commutation logic into the motor so that it would only need a battery supply and a pulse width modulated throttle signal to run, but after reading Lebowski’s threads on his controller I could never get that level of control and functionality with a simple on-board controller. I may be pestering him for one of his Controller ic’s.

Please comment freely.
Cheers
Ian
 
100 KW is a lot. You will probably need multiple rotors. Powdered iron is good for core loss but might saturate easy. It is also mechanically weak, so may need reinforcement. A lip on the outside edge of the rotor is a good idea if you can fit it. Glue tends to be much weaker at higher temperatures.
 
fechter said:
100 KW is a lot. You will probably need multiple rotors. Powdered iron is good for core loss but might saturate easy. It is also mechanically weak, so may need reinforcement. A lip on the outside edge of the rotor is a good idea if you can fit it. Glue tends to be much weaker at higher temperatures.

The outside edges of the magnets will be at a little over 9 ¼” diameter and I’m over engineering it for strength so I think it will hold up. I think the best you can get from powder cores is about 1.5T so I’m not expecting much over 1T from my DIY cast cores. To compensate the cores will be quite large.
 
Miles said:
So, bobbin shaped cores, cast in SMC.

Have you considered using coiled lamination steel?


I hadn’t thought about laminations as I am planning on a complex shape for the cores with hammer heads and mounting lugs cast in. nothing is set in stone though and the coils will be removable individually so I can try different core designs and windings.
 
From what I've read, the best core material out there is Metglas. http://metglas.com/
I've seen U-shaped pieces surplus on eBay for fairly cheap. It would be difficult to make your own shapes out of it though. 1T saturation for the powedered iron is pretty good.

Any ideas on cooling? With the coils between magnet rotors, you don't have a lot of surface area exposed on the outside. At high power levels, cooling will tend to be the limiting factor.
 
IanFiTheDwarf said:
I hadn’t thought about laminations as I am planning on a complex shape for the cores with hammer heads and mounting lugs cast in. nothing is set in stone though and the coils will be removable individually so I can try different core designs and windings.
They seem to get a pretty good performance out of the YASA motor, despite the use of composite cores... :)
 
Miles said:
IanFiTheDwarf said:
I hadn’t thought about laminations as I am planning on a complex shape for the cores with hammer heads and mounting lugs cast in. nothing is set in stone though and the coils will be removable individually so I can try different core designs and windings.
They seem to get a pretty good performance out of the YASA motor, despite the use of composite cores... :)

Due to the geometry of axial motors you can get a much larger core cross sectional area compared to a radial motor of similar size. This compensates for lower core saturation or probably more than compensates when it comes to the YASA motor.

When I started planning my motor I looked at the YASA motor amongst others but other than looking at the specs and the fact that they use powder cores I have avoided finding any technical details of their design to avoid just making a lesser copy. My motor will not be a lightweight record breaker but it should be cheap and powerful. I also have a few ideas that I don’t think anyone has come up with yet.
 
Look forward to see it developing.

Axial flux motors are more challenging to construct than radials. I bottled out and put my design aside until I had more experience.
 
Miles said:
IanFiTheDwarf said:
Due to the geometry of axial motors you can get a much larger core cross sectional area compared to a radial motor of similar size.
You've lost me there. :)

I read it in a paper on axial flux motors and it seemed to make sense to me but I’m not sure I can explain it. I will look for the paper.
 
I have had a bit of a rethink or rather I have gone back to an idea I had a while ago. I have seen several wind turbines use a brake disc as the backing for the magnets and I thought it might be possible to mount two brake discs face to face to make the rotors of an axial motor but I couldn’t find a disc and magnet combination that would work until now.

From what I can tell a Vauxhall Astra four stud hub and discs should be about right for my chosen magnet arrangement but only the vented discs are of large enough diameter. I suppose that vented discs would work quite well on an air cooled motor but I am aiming to use liquid cooling so it’s a bit redundant.

AxialBrushlessMotorB2.png
 
The largest solid discs I could see are 240mm and I couldn’t find any info on the diameter of the discs hub so was a bit wary to order them. I have seen discs with a hub measurement of 132.5mm but I have also seen 135mm which would need some machining.

The outside diameter of my ring of magnets is 235.6mm and the inside diameter is 133.9mm so I need to find a disc of at least 240mm diameter to give me room to machine a lip to hold the magnets securely and with a hub of about 132mm or less for them to fit over. I can use bigger rectangular magnets between the arc segment magnets in my halbach array to get over a bigger hub but that would defiantly take me to vented discs.

The disks I think I am going to order are 257mm vented which should give me a bit of room to play with if I am a bit tight on the disc hub.
 
Another thing I have been thinking about is my coil cores, I still want to cast them to get hammer heads and mountings built in but there is nothing to stop me casting something inside them like a simple stack of laminations to increase the saturation.
 
Maybe adapt these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-PASSAT-1-6-1-8-1-6-TD-1-9-D-1-9-TD-1-9-TDI-88-97-Eicher-Front-Brake-Disc-/300986594460?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item461432f49c PCD is the same... The hub might just be small enough to fit the magnets and lip in (looks to be 150mm)?
 
major said:
IanFiTheDwarf said:

Looks impossible to assemble. Or am I not seeing it correctly?

I haven’t drawn in the screws connecting the two grey parts if that’s what you mean?
Assembly goes like this,
1, bolt the bearing hub to the motor back casing (left most grey part)
2, screw the left break disc with attached magnets to the hub with the single securing screw
3, screw the next part of the motor casing (top and bottom grey part in picture) with attached coils to the motor back casing
4, bolt the second disc with attached magnets to the first disc and hub
 
IanFiTheDwarf said:
major said:
IanFiTheDwarf said:

Looks impossible to assemble. Or am I not seeing it correctly?

I haven’t drawn in the screws connecting the two grey parts if that’s what you mean?
Assembly goes like this,
1, bolt the bearing hub to the motor back casing (left most grey part)
2, screw the left break disc with attached magnets to the hub with the single securing screw
3, screw the next part of the motor casing (top and bottom grey part in picture) with attached coils to the motor back casing
4, bolt the second disc with attached magnets to the first disc and hub

O.K. But then the orange Hub is actually two parts? Part stationary and part rotating? Where's the mechanical power take-off?
 
major said:
O.K. But then the orange Hub is actually two parts? Part stationary and part rotating? Where's the mechanical power take-off?

Yes the orange part is just a car wheel hup, a stationary part and a rotating part with a bearing in-between

Like this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-...Model:Astra&hash=item43bf8cc1a6#ht_1051wt_905

The power take off can be either from the splined centre of the hub by using a drive shaft to match the hub splines or by a flange bolted in with the discs.

I am going for the drive shaft as it’s the simplest method and easy to pick one up second hand like this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASTRA-G-M...CarParts_SM&hash=item1c39a50b8c#ht_669wt_1142, but I’m not sure how much torque it can take so making up a hub is always an option.
 
It may be easier for readers to interpret the design if you show the hub as two separate parts.
I believe those hubs rely on the drive shaft to keep them together.
The standard drive shaft will be capable of transmitting the peak engine torque multiplied by the gearing ratio in first gear,
So, for a TDi motor ..say 300Nm and a 10:1 ratio = 3000Nm.. ( + a safety factor ?)
Is 3000Nm enough ?
 
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