Crystalyte 5404 / 5403 UPGRADED! LAST CALL

[ZOMGVTEK]

My hub came with a freewheel spacer. I didn't use it, as I saw no need for it. No chain on it yet, but it has perfectly acceptable, but minimal gap between the side cover and spins freely.

[methods]

My hub came with a freewheel spacer. I didn't use it, as I saw no need for it.

Either Kenny bumped the landing out by a mm (I doubt it) or your freewheel just does not sit in as deep as the 11T-30T that most people use.

Looks clean... that is going to be a bad ass ride.

-methods

[ohzee]

Homer Simpson built a robot!

I just put my motor back together with a replaced hall and it works! Now I just need to get my 24 Fet controller repaired so I can properly punish this motor for my sins. I also fabbed up some aluminium spacers to make sure this doesn't happen again (much like VoiceCoils idea with the C washers).

Soon as I get my 24 Fet going again I can get the mascara running on this motor. Woo Hoo!

Hey Philistine hope you don't mind me bother you with this. Putting my 5404 in my yuba when testing caused
one of my hall wires to get nicked and short out the hall maybe two need to put the tester on it again.

Took my motor apart tonight again (first time I realized the halls looked like a pita so just used my 12fet sensorless) and
I don't understand how you even get to the halls. It looks like they are shoved up under the windings.

Do I need to remove all the wire insulation and somehow pry them out without moving the copper fill ?

Glad you went before me. I really want to do it this weekend my 18fet is just dying to get used.

Any help you give me is very much appreciated.

[Philistine]

I didn't see this thread but had a PM with Ohzee about it, figured I would post up my babbling response in case it is of help to others:

Hi mate,

Yes the crystallites can be a pain to do the halls on. But having said that the 54 is much easier than the 53 (because the windings are packed down less tightly). I have a 5303 that I am still waiting to get time to go back to and undid the miss I did on it, but the 5404 wasn't too bad. My suggestion is that how you do it is to get the new Halls, and then finely solder three coloured wires on, and isolate each leg wire if that makes sense (I think I did it with really fine heatshrink, but I might have done it with a tiny piece of electrical tape on each leg. then cut the wires to the existing halls on the inside area of the stator - after they come out the axle slot (do each in turn so you make sure you replace the right hall if that makes sense), then pull out the wires and remove the hall. Then take your new hall and glue it into the slot, then feed the wires through the little tunnell they came out of on the old hall, then solder the wires that you have fed through onto the wires that are then on the other side (where you cut them). Do each in turn that way. Obviously make sure each hall has the right colour wire for the right leg of each hall at the begining.

I did it that way because the soldering onto the legs is such a pain (because I am so crap at soldering), that I found it easier to get that right first, then solder the wires after feeding them back through the tunnell in the windings. You have to be careful that the way you have soldered the hall to the wires (and insulated) has a very low profile, and that you glue it deep enough into the new slot (I used a fine dremel carbid bit to make sure I had cleaned out the slot properly for the new hall). I say that because their is little clearance from the motor, so you have to have very little (almost none) profile from the ring.

Does that all make sense? It is a pain, but I had to replace all the halls on my 5404, and because the tunnell through the windings is so big, it only took me an hour. But on my 5303 I screwed it up big time.

Halls are such a pain I find. My mate ended up going sensorless because he got so sick of replacing halls on his 9cs - I would have too but he runs lower power (12S) and at higher voltages they suck balls.

Only other tip I have, is that I found the bearing stuck on my axle which has never happened when removing a side cover before, I got it off in the end though, but had never had that happen before.

Do you use the gear puller method to remove stators? That is what I find is easiest.

Best of luck with it mate. Let me know if I need to make any of that clearer. Cheers Phil.

[ohzee]

Thanks for the help Philistine it was handy. Replaced the halls even snapped some pics to show how they go behind the windings.
Getting out the hard glue w/o damaging the windings was the hardest part.

Was wondering if it's ok to use a glue gun to hold wires in place in these motors. My concern was if the motor gets to warm and the
glue gets into the windings/magnets.

I am dealing with the bearings staying like you stated. Was wondering if I could just put the side cover back on without removing them.
May try that , but I have a small gear puller I can use if needed as well. What a pita though. Getting this to fit into my yuba was
the main issue and it just barely nicked then ruined the halls

[Hyena]

Guys this sales thread is dead and buried (atleast it was)
Any info regarding the 5400s should be posted in the other thread where the information is relevant and can be found in the future for anyone who may be looking for it.

www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic ... 1&p=620412

[ohzee]

Well I searched on the issue I was having and found an identical post and posted in that thread.

If we should not post here then maybe the thread should be closed ?

Just so much data on this site it's not always easy or fast to find the best place to ask your questions.

[Hyena]

Just so much data on this site it's not always easy or fast to find the best place to ask your questions.

True, which is why we don't want this sort of info in a sale.
I'll PM a mod to close this one.

[bigmoose]

Thread locked by request so technical discussions will be in the right area.