Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, Sold Out

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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Sigma » Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:51 am

What voltage should it be set to? right now its set to 4.8 Volts, that seems right.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby hillzofvalp » Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:39 pm

Check out this thread: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=35031
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby hillzofvalp » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:22 pm

Deleted magnets are fine
Last edited by hillzofvalp on Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Alan B » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:29 pm

If you somehow weakened the magnets you may have created the "higher speed cromotor" that oatnet was looking for. Lower torque higher speed.

One way to numerically compare is to see if the RPM/volt is the same as it was when new. Do you have data to make a comparison? Unloaded wheel speed at a particular voltage would do it.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby hillzofvalp » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:59 pm

I'll check, but how much of an increase are we talking? Please reply in build thread below
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby methods » Sat Jun 09, 2012 4:20 pm

You could have definitely increased the KV of your motor.
Simply spinning it up with the wheel off the ground will tell you this.

What was your old freewheel speed at voltage X?
What is it now?
Apply %difference formula and you have your answer.

Fooling around with screwdrivers and magnets trying to determine a change in how you remember things will not result in any sort of useful data. Only frustration and doubt.

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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby neptronix » Sat Jun 09, 2012 4:25 pm

search on ebay for a 'digital laser tachometer'.
The doohickey with a orange and black look is what you want.

Those units work great. I used one to measure my MAC motor to get the KV/unloaded speed.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Sigma » Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:35 pm

ugh, my wheel came off and pulled the phase/hull wires abit. They still seem intact. But when applying power the motor just stalls(jiggs abit and stops), any ideas on how to fix it?
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Alan B » Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:27 pm

Check the continuity of the phase wires, and isolation from ground. Check the hall signals. The hall wires are more fragile and would produce the effect you mentioned if they were broken.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby methods » Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:35 pm

Sigma wrote:ugh, my wheel came off and pulled the phase/hull wires abit. They still seem intact. But when applying power the motor just stalls(jiggs abit and stops), any ideas on how to fix it?


:)
You need a torque arm system that captures the axle. Your torque arms (plural) should be set up well enough that you don't need to install your axle nuts. If your axle nuts are doing anything to keep your wheel in the drops then you need to re-evaluate and beef up. This is especially true with this hub motor.

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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby zombiess » Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:06 am

Hey guys, here is a warning to watch you motor temps. Hillsofvalp just let me know that it appears he weakened the magnets a bit from getting them too hot. He was running 4.5kw into a 29er. He said he just installed a temp probe and after a shorter than usual ride was already at 119c. He's calculating the kv to be around 10.3 now. The side cover temperature doesn't tell you what's going on inside!

I do not have spare parts available. Pay attention to your temps if you are running high power or big wheels. I'd guess big wheels is the worst for generating heat because the motor spends a lot of time in the area of least efficiency and has to work extra hard to get you up to speed especially if you are accelerating fast.

Jeremy
Last edited by zombiess on Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Arlo1 » Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:07 am

Zombies I think the mags are 150deg C rated? ??
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Batteries of all kinds need respect they can burn your house down, so don't sleep with them under your bed or any other were you cant afford smoke or fire!
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby zombiess » Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:09 am

Arlo1 wrote:Zombies I think the mags are 150deg C rated? ??


That's what I'm told they are rated for, but its an absolute Max rating.

I've put 14kw into my setup for about 10 mins of stop and go abuse and managed to get my motor pretty warm, but even after sitting for a few minutes it was only at the beginning of what I consider hot. I do run a 20 inch setup though so the motor doesn't have to work very hard to get up to speed.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby hillzofvalp » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:01 am

Deleted
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Sigma » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:17 am

Hey, so phase wires are okay. But hull wires are not. So how do i open the motor up to get to the hull wires? I remove the screws but unsure as to how to take off the outside shell. :S
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby methods » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:36 am

hillzofvalp wrote: This is a silent killer. I am heart broken after just 350 miles.


I am sorry you are bummed out. :cry:

I dont want to sound heartless.... but you should not be heartbroken.
It would be good to take this as a very important lesson about efficiency. Efficiency is *the most important factor* in EV's. The term "efficiency" has been hijacked by gas sipping hybrid nerds in an attempt to describe economy - but what efficiency is really about is power handling and side effects. In this case operating the motor in an inefficient way created excessive heat and as a side effect your magnets may now be altered.

Lets make sure this does not turn into a bashing point for this motor.

I suspect that you are just bummed out right now and that after you ride for a bit you will realize that you still have an amazing motor... but if you are unable to recover you can always negotiate a new set of magnets and rebuild. My suspicion is that you will quickly get over your heartbreak and enjoy that device for what it still is - a HUGE hub motor.

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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby hillzofvalp » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:59 am

Deleted
Last edited by hillzofvalp on Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby methods » Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:02 pm

At least you are a man with standards.... :)

I know the feeling. It is like having a perfect set of something - then one breaks and ruins the set. Drives me mad.

Keep us updated on your progress. I have no doubt that a magnet ring can be had... but the price may be high.

-methods
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby hillzofvalp » Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:15 pm

Sigma wrote:Hey, so phase wires are okay. But hull wires are not. So how do i open the motor up to get to the hull wires? I remove the screws but unsure as to how to take off the outside shell. :S

there are lots of threads around, but the GIST is that you wedge something in the crack gently all the way around, not too deep, and gently pry the cover up.. once it's high enough it will pull right off.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby neptronix » Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:55 pm

Gear pullers. Use the disc brake as leverage. Problem solved and you won't end up marring the part of your covers that helps keep water out..

[youtube]http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=gear+puller&hl=en&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1280&bih=711&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7399634969480328888&sa=X&ei=De3UT7KKGYTo2QXmhbWwDw&ved=0CL4BEPMCMAM[/youtube]

I feel bad for you hillzofvalp. Hope you can get your hands on a magnet ring.
ES facebook group: http://facebook.com/#!/home.php?sk=group_125035107565566&ap=1

The all-arounder: 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The girlfriend bike: 350W front MAC on a 700c Trek.
The wheelie machine: 20" Rear Magic Pie II on a Trek 4300 MTB
The Bus: ??? on a 'da bomb' cargo bike frame

Pro-tips for noobs: Avoid BMS Battery like the plague | Charge RC Lipos to 4.15v, stop discharging at 3.5-3.6v | Use torque plates/arms! | Rear mounted hubs are always best
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Sigma » Sun Jun 10, 2012 2:40 pm

Ugh, looks like i blow all 3 hall sensors. Does anyone know where I can order more and which type of hall sensors for this motor.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby zombiess » Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:02 pm

Sigma wrote:Ugh, looks like i blow all 3 hall sensors. Does anyone know where I can order more and which type of hall sensors for this motor.


Honeywell ss41a sensors. The a version has a higher temp rating.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Sigma » Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:41 pm

zombiess wrote:
Sigma wrote:Ugh, looks like i blow all 3 hall sensors. Does anyone know where I can order more and which type of hall sensors for this motor.


Honeywell ss41a sensors. The a version has a higher temp rating.


I cant find that type on the digikey website, Would you be able to like me to them.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Alan B » Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:25 pm

I don't know why the hall sensors would be bad. The motor spun and tugged the wires, right? I would expect the wires to be damaged mechanically near the axle and the Hall sensors to be fine.
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Re: Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, now in stock

Postby Sigma » Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:52 pm

Hey, I got hydro-one to test it already, the wires got tugged but then im assuming the hall red wire made contact with the yellow phase wire which cause the sensor to short.
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