Nice post Gonzo. There we have it, a slight increase in startup torque/thrust, and I'm not sure the simulation accurately factors in current limiting or the difference in the controller behavior looking at the 2 different loads. I would disagree about looking at it like mechanical gearing, because just like "torque wind" motors don't have more torque it is misleading since changes in mechanical gearing changes torque directly. More accurately it's High Speed/Higher Power in high, and Low Speed/Lower Power in low, and low is better on hills.
I agree that a shifting approach is theoretically better, but I would stay away from that in the interest of long term durability, because the gain is small. I shifted my test unit back and forth many many hundreds of times as part of my testing, and it's still fine, but wires do have to flex slightly to accomplish the change from one set of contacts to the other. Then again, the wires on my bikes with suspension do flex some with every bump in the road, so it's possible that I'm being overly cautious. My tech contact at the factory says switching while on the throttle is ok too. Maybe that is true since the phase currents are AC, and yes I did do it during testing, but I definitely recommend against it out of concerns of scarring the contacts with tiny arcs, and concerns about the controller seeing phase connections briefly brake under load with a huge change in what the motor looks like to the controller.
I'm sure you want to avoid shifting while regen braking, something I didn't even test because it seems like such a bad idea, especially going to low while regen braking at higher speeds. Switching to low while at high speeds, whether braking or not, also seems like a bad idea. DD hubbies always seemed "odd" to me while coasting down hills above no load speed. Shifting to low while at high speed can make that like coasting down a hill at almost double the no load speed, something I've never done, since that would be way over 100mph on my bikes.
The other thing I want to caution again against is trying to push this motor in stock form to extreme currents. The factory uses 50A controllers. Those I supply are 60-70A, and I did run 80A for months without issue. We have to keep in mind that the phase currents go through those contacts in the motor, and there's always going to be some added resistance there compared to just continuous wire.
The big question is who is going to be the first to gut that switching, add ventilation to dissipate the extra heat that comes with higher power, and see what this baby will really do. Maybe we can talk JohnRobHolmes into it. He's got an extra motor in hand anyway, since his wiring harness got damaged in transit, and I sent him a replacement motor. I'll contribute that motor for finding if he'll contribute the elbow grease.
That brings up another important point. Protect those axle ends. Redoing the wiring harness on these motors is not a job I envy. Below is what I came up with, my usual quick and crude but effective to get the test bike on the road. They just slide onto the axle flats. I didn't reinstall them when I had the motor off, because my bike is protected from falling over, and if I take a spill on the road with that bike I'll have much bigger worries than some broken wires. I have clamping dropouts, so the axle nut's purpose was simply to hold these on. The wrap around the ends probably wasn't necessary, just something solid extending past the end of the axle to take the force if the bike goes on it's side would have more visual appeal. I'm sure you guys will come up with something better.