Electric Mountain Board help please

[Uvedovle]

Come on guys! Help us please!

There really aren't that many guys on here that go for the skateboards.
Those that do have already posted their build-threads. Most use hobby-king RC parts as it seems you are already doing.
So there really isn't much for anyone to tell you,
and my advice would be to just search the other build-threads.

Thanks, hopefully these guys who made allready e-skate post some help.

Wbr

[AAAkings]

I will have to agree with EBJ. There hasn't been too many people on here that have modified skate/mountain boards. There are two that come to mind instantly when I think about it and that is HumboldtRC (Sorry if I spelt it wrong) and Addicted2Climbing (Again, sorry if I spelt it wrong). Both of them seem to have answered any questions I had for them and Marc (Addicted2climbing) is still building if I am correct. And there is also another member on here that has a build log on another site, his name is Christian and his log has a description of everything that his board has. If you want the link let me know, but again, the two names listed above were very helpful when I had questions and I would recomend asking them questions. (Be sure to read through all 50 something pages of HumboldtRC's build log on hobby king as it answers a lot of questions.

Just my 2 cents of rambling. I will be doing a full build log once mine is finally finished, just taking a lot longer than I had expected.

[Uvedovle]

Thanks AAAKings, i had problems for reading HobbyKing forums, now its seems to be ok. I readed a lot already, but now i'm going to read complete thread from begining.

My main question is about using my 36v 12a lipo with this.


Wbr

[nieles]

Now some questions about batt, i readed many info but i still not clear about this:
Do you think is possible to use my 36v 15a lipofe4 batt with this ESC using something like http://www.powerstream.com/dc-36V-5V.htm

so if i understand you correctly, you want to convert the 36v to al lower voltage (15v?) and then feed the 15v to the esc.

i have never seen this done before, so there is probably a good reason for that.
one reason i can think of is the efficiency of the dc-dc converter (70-80%)

the dc-dc converter you linked to is just an example right?
if not.. 60w will not be enough

i would either go for one of these options:
1. go to a 6s lipo battery
2. go to a lower kv motor and different controller (36v capable)
3. double your reduction and use same motor, but different controller (36v capable)

do you need the brake function part of the controller? that would limit your choices.

[Uvedovle]

Thanks Nieles! This is the kind of help i need


You just pointed me in the right way, i will buy new lipo battery.

I want ESC able to reverse and brake if possible, and capable to work with these turnigy with low Kv. Is possible to do with sensorless esc and motor?

My main question now about motors its about sensorless motors and esc's; i readed but i can get what is better for me, i think sensorless is ok...

As i wrote before, i'm noob in rc, i don't know how to wire receiver with esc's (not really worried about it), i just need someone tell me if the parts i posted before are fully compatible, then i'll buy it and try to make ir work , i'm good in electronics, i hope don't have many problems in it.


Thanks for your help!

[nieles]

i have no direct experince with those controller from hobbyking.

af far as controller choice, i would go with this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... r_ESC.html
this controller can do both sensored and sensorless.
so you can start out with sensorless, if you are not satisfied you can always switch to sensored
(ofcours you need to install sensors in/on your motor then)
burtie (a member here) has a optical sensor kit for sale, that could be used in stead of the normally used hall sensors

you should check out this youtube channel:
http://www.youtube.com/user/HumboldtSto ... ture=watch
this guy is on this forum too. (humboldtrc i think)
you could ask him some questions on one of his threads

also on you shopping list;
the transmitter already comes with a receiver, so you dont need to buy a seperate one

the wiring of the system is fairly straightforward. the controller has 5 power wires. red/black for battery. blue/green/yellow for the brushless motor.
there is also a small connector with 3 wires. this is the signal cable, and also powers the receiver. you need to plug this cable in to the receiver channel 1 or 2 (not sure, one will be controlled by the steering wheel, the other by the trigger). if the motor turns the wrong way, just swap 2 of the 3 motor power wires. thats all for sensorless control.

[Uvedovle]

Thanks a lot! Now, let me get some cash for spend in this crazy monster.

Wbr

[AJChuckles]

Nearing the end of the year, the project is wrapping up. All that is left to do is to make a carbon fiber plate, and finish clearing the electrical housing compartment and break the chain to the correct length. The motor mounts are complete and differ from my original plan but should work for what they are. I will post more pictures and a complete build log as soon as everything is complete and the report is finished. But for now a glimpse of what it looks like now minus the motors. Board design is based off of one of Cindrich's longboard with a few tweaks. Anodizing/dimondyze and powder coating was completed with the help of Hupe Mfg.

P.S. Thanks to everyone on this forum for all the valuable information available to the noob's like myself.

[sk8norcal]

looks great,
is AAAkings and you working on this same board above ??

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=31945&p=513806&hilit=flexboardz#p513806

[EBJ]

love it!.

but how do you plan on putting grip-tape or bindings on it ?

[AJChuckles]

It is the same board. Due to some circumstances, it was required for me to set up a seperate account in order to do a build log and such.

And I was tossing around the ideas of making brackets to hold onto the round spacers you see in the pictures, just need to figure out mounting angle and spacing. However, myself, as well as others who will be testing this out feel it may be better to hold off on the foot straps until a later date. And I was kicking around the idea of putting grip tape on the top of each rail, however, I feel that the concave of the board locks your feet into position fairly well for my liking (not a skateboarder).

[AJChuckles]

So I managed to get the thing running. Had an issue of not having enough adjustment for the one chain so I ran only one motor yesterday. The thing ran great and ran it till the battery called it quits. However, I managed to find an offset link in town and that put it within reach for having correct chain tightness. The board ran so smooth for the first 25 min or so. However I was just driving on flat dry pavement and smoke rose from the battery compartment. The ESC was on fire. I managed to put the fire out before it caused any damage to the battery and only slightly melted the plastic casing on the other ESC. I happened to have my phone recording and have a shot of what the smoke looked like coming out. I am just wondering if anyone would have any insert on why an ESC would catch fire like this. I plan on getting new ones, just don't know if I should get the same ones or look at others.

[HumboldtRc]

What esc's are you using? I have fired pretty much every big rc car esc out there.

[AJChuckles]

I was using the Turnigy TrackStar 150A. The was working fine yesterday, and it looks fine today after the incident besides a little melted plastic on the side of the casing. I might see about running the one tomorrow as a 1 wheel drive and see how it works out. I just want to know if there is anything I can do to prevent it from happening again. Project is due in about 2.5 weeks. It doesnt need to run at the time however as I had it running and have videos of the incident (Plus have a job for when I graduate already). I don't know if I want to sink too much money into this at this time as I am surviving off of funds from this summer. But if I can get the following ESC to work, I won't mind droping the money on those if there is a higher likely hood of them working.

I know it isn't a Car ESC so no brakes, (Fine by me) as I was to scared to use them as I didn't want to muck up the board prior to the presentation....)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... A_ESC.html

[AAAkings]

Just an update, I ran the board again today without any incident. Down to one motor and just ran through one battery. Felt the components at the end and did not feel hot at all. I am assuming that I got a faulty unit or else something is out of whack on the other wheel.

[EBJ]

Just an update, I ran the board again today without any incident. Down to one motor and just ran through one battery. Felt the components at the end and did not feel hot at all. I am assuming that I got a faulty unit or else something is out of whack on the other wheel.

perhaps you should order up two more since the one seems to be working.
I dont see how anything could be "out of whack"...
if you have two motors and each is controlled by their own ESC, then I don't see how they could be fighting each other.
Perhaps you could film a short video as a "proof of concept", then mount your skateboard on a stand for a "hands-on" demo int he classroom.
(with the wheels spinning freely in air so as to not break any parts or put a hole in a classroom wall).

[AAAkings]

I am very tempted to get another one, I feel I should run it for the rest of the week to ensure that it will survive. Just finding it difficult to drop money on this thing right now as I am pricing out rental places in Toronto right now and still waiting for my income tax return. The thing I meant that might be out of whack is the sprocket allignment to the motor sprocket, I do not know how accurate it needs to be, but it seems to run fine to me, but just might be me accepting a lower straightness standard.

And I wasn't sure how to do a demonstration, but that is a pretty good idea!I know one of my teachers that helped machine the components attempted to ride it today, but with the lack of the second motor, it coggs at the start and he wasn't expecting to to take off afterwards...

But once again, I appreciate all the help that is available on this forum!

P.S. Depending on the fund situation once I put the car under my name, I might need to part this board out

[Uvedovle]

Hi guys!

Which is the best battery settings for each 150a esc + turnigy motor? I noticed we can use different... do you use each esc with its own battery pack?
Also thinking about wires, 8awg is ok? Also looking for charger for batts... Sorry, i know nothing about rc...

[AJChuckles]

Here is the final product of this whole project. Overally I am extremely satisfied with the end result and want ot thank everyone here for all their assistance throughout the whole project.

http://photobucket.com/AMET

[EBJ]

Here is the final product of this whole project. Overally I am extremely satisfied with the end result and want ot thank everyone here for all their assistance throughout the whole project.

http://photobucket.com/AMET

So did you end up replacing the other motor / esc to get 2WD, or just run it in 1WD ?
Put many miles on it since the presentation ?

[AJChuckles]

Just kept running it with one motor to ensure that it was just a faulty unit and not that the unit wasn't powerful enough. And there are a few runs on the one motor, but has just been collecting dust since. Hard to put more work into with other financial issues in the way along with the fact that I am not a skateboarder. (Though it is extremely fun to sit down/lie on the thing).