Review for the prize Cycle Analyst from here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21397&start=0
Appropriately packed:
View attachment 15
with a surprise inside in addition to the CA--a couple sets of parts for fixing the other CA's blown regulator stuff!
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19540&start=0
Some comparison shots of it with the other CA that still needs repair, that Dogman sent, along with the Watts Up that AussieJester sent (which has wires from the first borrowed Turnigy that I killed and later repaired), and the Turnigy Watt Meter that Rumped6 sent.
I really like the screen. I can read it from several feet away even without my glasses, whcih I sure can't do with the Watts Up or the Turnigy. Heck, the Turnigy I have to be pretty close to and at the right angle even in good light or with it's backlight only in darkness, or I can't make stuff out well. The Watts Up is way better but it's still tiny and I must have my glasses on when riding to see it. I don't know about the older CA but probably that, too (it still needs repair so I haven't seen it in operation to know for sure).
It is equally readable in regular lighting, daylight, or darkness or partial lighting.
View attachment 5
White backlight is much better than the blue Turnigy light.
The CA board itself appears the same at a glance, though it looks tiny compared to the screen in this shot:
The connection to the shunt is different from the regular version--instead of being wired straight to it, it uses the JST connector, which I assume could be plugged right into a controller. Can't tell yet as the included manual is for the regular version. Guess the new manual isn't finished yet.
The speedo sensor is still wired directly in; I wish it was also on that connector plug, because if it was, I could very quickly unsnap the CA from the bars with the QR clamp, unplug it, and take it in with me instead of leaving it in the hot Phoenix sun when I have to park the bike outside stores, etc. for any length of time. I'll fix that, and add my own connector, but it would be nice to not have to.
Perhaps that could be a future change to newer models from Grin.The bar clamp is the same as the previous model, and has an issue with the pad not being thick enough to work on the bars for CB2 or DayGlo Avenger, or a few other handlebars on bikes I checked quickly. The pad has indentations in it
to presumably help prevent rotation around the bar by locking to the pads that are part of the clamp,
View attachment 6
but unless you've got thick bars or you clamp this to your stem it probably isn't going to fit without additional rubber shims (like slices of old innertube). I ended up using the thicker pad Dogman sent with the other one (presumably used by him for the same reason). I like the clamp itself, just not the pad.
The speedo...well, I got it to work once, during one hand-spin of the wheel,
but for some reason I can't get a response from it now. I've tried the original magnet, but that was too far away from it (7-10mm) when on the motor's spokes.
It needs to be within 2mm per the manual, so I made a stack of badge magnets that work fine on other speedo sensors like on my VeloAce PDA or the Innovator cycle computer, on the edge of the steel spoke flange of the 9C, and that I can make close enough to the sensor that it actually rubs it,
View attachment 2
and it still doesn't respond. Tried various magnet orientations, with no change.
I'm sure I'm just doing something wrong but I am not sure what it is yet.
The sensor is the same as the previous CA version, so I can experiment with testing using that one.I attached the speedo sensor and tied cables down using more of the recycled zip ties I save from unpacking various merchandise at work, like the unassembled dog kennels we have to put together when they arrive:
They're always still long enough to be very useful, and are actually better quality than the Harbor Freight or dollar-store zip ties, by quite a bit usually.
All the small size, but often longer (even cut) than the small ones you usually see in packs. I'm not sure about the current readings yet, as they are a bit different (greater) than the WU or TWM. Might be that it's more accurate, or it might still need fine-tuning on the Rshunt value vs the actual included shunt (which I mounted up at the controller end of the various battery connections).
Not tested on a ride, yet, that's coming up this afternoon (might not be any further info about it till tomorrow afternoon, though, as I close tonight but open tomorrow at work).
BTW, anyone that doesn't say Justin and/or Grin / Ebikes.ca rocks must never have dealt with them.
