Aotema brushless contoller questions

[HTB_Terry]

If you purchase a controller from Hightekbikes, you get a one year warranty and full support. I examine all returned controllers to determine the problem and find any weak points that can be improved. Maybe you pay a few extra dollars, that gets you peace of mind.

If you have no voltage output or any LEDs, that is a very basic problem. The throttle LEDs run off the battery power and there is little or nothing between the battery input wire and the wire going to the throttle. I would check the battery connector on the controller and the soldering of these wires to the pcb.

If you want an upgrade to this controller, you can use the high voltage sensorless model from Keywin.

[RTLSHIP]

I opened it up and don't see anything unsolderd or loose, but I don't know quite what to look for either.
I'm sending it to eking. I'll definitely consider a Keywin once this one is fixed.
just bad luck? What's the cost of a Keywin?

[HTB_Terry]

Before you send it back, check the wires going to the power switch. I've had a few break off. The switch is the only part between the power input and the wire going to the throttle LED. If the red and bue wires are still on the switch, try shorting the connections on the switch, effectively turning it on.

Keywin sells directly on ebay but you have to communicate exactly what you want, and the shipping is expensive. I will be re-selling them with the desired programming for $149.95. The parameters and connectors will be by customer request.

the general specs are, sensored or sensorless, 72V, 50A, programmable. I'm still testing them but they seem to work.

[dnmun]

I have another problem with stock controller. No red and green lights come on. thumb throttle doesn't light up either.
I have been running it only with 36v packs. It happened before riding. I can't even fire up the controller.
Help or comments would be appreciated. I did manage to ride to work this morning on a 48v pack w/ 48v controller.
I'm thinking about getting a 36v controller f/ campsolutions as these stock controllers are a major disappointment at any voltage.

so you were able to use this controller and battery pack before at 36V but now it does not work? but you have another controller and 48V pack and the motor works?

hard to decipher what has happened here.

[RTLSHIP]

dnum, I have 2 controllers on 1 bike. the stock controller for running 36v and a 48v controller for 48v packs.
Terry, I did check the red and blue wires on the inside of the on/off switch. I added some solder but still no luck.
Sent it to eking last night. I have a back up stock controller, so I can still run 36v.
Unfortunately, I don't have controller repair experience.
I have to blame myself for some of the previous controller issues because I had a cut wire near the hub axle.
The motor on this kit has been excellent so far. Not a single complaint.

[dnmun]

even more complicated for remotely diagnosing it if you have two controllers tied to the same motor.

you actually have the output from a 48V controller tied to the output of an inactive 36V controller? so all the phase wires are tied together?

i still do not think that cut wire on your axle should have damaged that controller since there did not appear to be a circuit for the current to follow back to the controller unless your battery is grounded or another part of the circuitry is grounded to the frame at the same time.

BOL

[ekingsting]

dnmun, I agree that only 1 phase wire shorted to fork should not path to ground. I am not sure how this control senses timing without halls but it must be sensitive to pickup magnet position thru phase wires. It is usually the small pcb for timing that fails. I guess I could test this but I do not want to burn $80 right now if it did fail.

[dnmun]

someone can correct me on this since i have not seen a schematic but i suspect the 'hallsignal' replacement signal comes from a comparator that watches the voltage on one of the other phase wires to trigger. i think we discussed the voltage divider on this line already and the surface mount resistor had blown up that was part of that bridge providing the signal to the comparator input.

[HTB_Terry]

This controller uses the same little conversion board that I believe Keywin sells. BTW, on Keywins controller, he put all the circuitry on the main board.
I spent some time trouble shooting those little boards, but got side tracked. It was discussed somewhere but the gist of it was as follows. The power supply on the daughter board consists of a 9V zener diode and the surface mount resistor that has blown in several failures. I think this gets 12 or 15V from the mother board, but I will have to check that. The input resistors on the voltage dividers are tiny guys that don't fail. That's what was strange. The only thing I could come up with was the LM339 latching and drawing a lot of current. It really needs to be scoped out when running. All three phases are monitored and the outputs of the LM339's are configured such that it simulates the regular sensor output. This controller can be converted to sensored simply by unsoldering the adaptor board and soldering in wires. I have sketched most of the circuit which I will post here soon. There were a few other failures where a couple mosfets fried and one or two as of yet unresolved failures.

[dnmun]

maybe a three terminal voltage regulator to replace the zener or a bigger power resistor to soak up the excess voltage drop. good work terry.

[RTLSHIP]

The cut wire issue does not apply here. That was coorected last summer.
It actually simple to run a bike with 2 controllers. I just use 1 thumb throttle and plug it into the approriate controller.
I plug in the approriate power supply to wheel. It's not complicated. 1 controller is completely plug in while the other is unplugged.

[HTB_Terry]

First draft of the daughter card.

controller-sensorless.gif

sensorless converter schematic

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