Solar power house info

[Harold in CR]

Howdy Arlo
Jay contacted me and I sent him links. I am placing them here, also. We have not built panels yet. They don't work well underwater. It has not stopped raining here for over 3 months. I'm talking all day and all night.

Look here :

Go here for cells : http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=1+KW+Solar+Cells&_sacat=See-All-Categories IF you can buy tabbed cells, that is easier to solder. All you need to do is connect them. These things are THIN and FRAGILE.

Go here for build series of 3 parts. http://fieldlines.com/board/index.php?topic=145005.0

This is the best info available.

I'm very interested in the actual LED fixtures You posted about. Any more details about exactly what you bought ?? I know nothing about LED lighting, but, I have made 3 modded light bulbs with LED's sticking out of them. We use them for temp lighting when the lights go out (REAL regular). I just put jumper leads to a 12V UPS battery.

[Jay64]

Thanks Harold. Do you have a link to your guys' build thread? I remember you guys were solving some problems of condensation inside the glass or something like that.

[Harold in CR]

Jay, that fieldlines link is what you need to read. It's a 3 step tutorial with much Q&A info.

[Arlo1]

Howdy Arlo
Jay contacted me and I sent him links. I am placing them here, also. We have not built panels yet. They don't work well underwater. It has not stopped raining here for over 3 months. I'm talking all day and all night.

Look here :

Go here for cells : http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=1+KW+Solar+Cells&_sacat=See-All-Categories IF you can buy tabbed cells, that is easier to solder. All you need to do is connect them. These things are THIN and FRAGILE.

Go here for build series of 3 parts. http://fieldlines.com/board/index.php?topic=145005.0

This is the best info available.

I'm very interested in the actual LED fixtures You posted about. Any more details about exactly what you bought ?? I know nothing about LED lighting, but, I have made 3 modded light bulbs with LED's sticking out of them. We use them for temp lighting when the lights go out (REAL regular). I just put jumper leads to a 12V UPS battery.

Awesome thanks. These look like them.... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/White-60-LEDs-50 ... 35b74392f9

[Arlo1]

These are the ones I used under my cabinets. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ULTRA-Bright-Whi ... 2a074b5efe They are very good and I think they are water proof. When I got mine there was 10 x 3 LED strips in a pack for 27 shipping incl!

[Arlo1]

These are the ones I used under my cabinets. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ULTRA-Bright-Whi ... 2a074b5efe They are very good and I think they are water proof. When I got mine there was 10 x 3 LED strips in a pack for 27 shipping incl!

From this link.
I used 8 under the cabinets in our kitchen so thats .72w a modual x 8 = 5.76w and to leave them on its 50457 wh a year or 50.457 kwh calculating off of their rating. Which I find most LEDs are over rated on ebay, but these ones dont seem to bad bacause they are bright! I think when I mesured them I used 8 cents as average power cost ours here is $6.67 on step1 and $9.62 on step 2. I also mesured the power going into the inverter and just multiplied it by 110v so im not sure if its right. But the total is still someware around $4 a year. Even if Im out by double its only $8! And they produce the best light!!!
For eg if the battery was new in my bmx it would power these non stop for ~ 56.8 hours

Ultra - Super Bright Clear White

5 x Led Lighting Modules


There are 3 high quality led in the module ,


Led Type Smd 5050 Three chips Very Strong,


Elegant,Docorative,Strong for
Undercabinet or cabinet lighting,














Many using area;
Home,kitchen,hidden lighting,bars,tv back,under beds,in pools,cars,buses........




These photos show 10 modules








Waterproof design

12 volt low voltage,(60ma , 0.72W per module)

Low energy consumption,long life time 80.000 hours

Easy to install yourself

Strong double side adhesive on the back of each
and you can mount with screw !

Two Modul Size Found, Chips Same

Model A: (3 3/4" long x 2/5" wide x 1/5" thick),
2 1/2" wire spacing between each module

Model B: (2 1/4" long x 2/5" wide x 1/5" thick),
3 1/5" wire spacing between each

Each module can be cut

LED color is Clear White (not Yellowish,not Bluish)

[Jay64]

I wonder how hot the cells get. I'm wondering if you could put copper piping directly under the metal backing of the PV solar panel and heat the water in the tubes while also generating electricity. I'm thinking that if you have a smaller, energy efficient house, then the roof space might be limited to have both a PV panel and a solar hot water panel.

[Kurt]

You can fit both on a very small roof but it depends on how big you want to go. I have 8 x 190w panels 1500w and a large dual panel solar hot water collector on a very small 3 bed house two story (smaller roof area)
even then it only takes up perhaps 70% of the 50m2 roof area on the north side.

The tubing could help cool the panels a little and that's always a good thing. I have gone out with a hose some times on a hot summer day and hosed down my panels and the wattage shoots up for a while.

Kurt

[Harold in CR]

Arlo, thanks for the info. Harold

[Jay64]

Kurt, I'm thinking of doing it on a 200 square foot cottage.

[Arlo1]

I wonder how hot the cells get. I'm wondering if you could put copper piping directly under the metal backing of the PV solar panel and heat the water in the tubes while also generating electricity. I'm thinking that if you have a smaller, energy efficient house, then the roof space might be limited to have both a PV panel and a solar hot water panel.

IM actualy thinking about flowing air though them and cooling them then when its cool out the hot air will flow into the house to help heat the house! Kinda like the pop can thing have you guys seen them?
Im thinking either put the pannels on top of the beer cans or just flow the air over the solar pannels them selfs. Cooling the solar cells them selfs will help a lot they have 16.5% effieciency so that meens the rest goes to heat or reflection. SO there should be some good heat.

[Kurt]

Kurt, I'm thinking of doing it on a 200 square foot cottage.

Ok now I know what size your dealing with its a little different . Though still think it would fit. Your cottage is 200 square foot so I will work metric its roughly 18m2 a 1500w array of pv's consumes 11.7m2 and a large dual collector hot water system consumes 4m2 for a total of 15.7m2.

So you have enough roof area for the same system as I run and it would be over kill for a cottage. The hot water collectors heat 300lt of water easy.

Pic of my system, as you can see its spread out all over the place


PS, loving the solar air heater thanks for posting that video

Kurt

[Arlo1]

These are the screw in type 7.5w LG led bulbs I use. They seem good quality with a heat sync they get warm but not to bad, they are 110v ac btw http://www.lg.com/us/led-lighting/led-b ... 50JWU0.jsp

[Arlo1]

These are the 12.5w 110v ac Philips LED screw in type also with a heat synk. I pay $15 for 1 this is the one I use for the porch out side. I dont feel bad about leaving it on for the girfriend at night! http://www.amazon.com/Philips-Ambient-D ... B005HO1SLO

[Harold in CR]

Will these LED's take fluctuating voltage input without blowing ??

I plug the VOM into an outlet and watch the voltage range from 105 to 128. I have confronted ICE the local monopoly Power and Communications Company and their engineers say that is perfectly OK voltage. Lights out is fairly common, averaging up to 20 momentary blinks per week, sometimes.

Light bulbs don't last for very long. I'm about to start wiring the house for low voltage lighting and power stations.

When I lived in Arkansas, I sold wind turbines, Solar Panels and Towers, along with TV Antennas and rotators and boosters. Had a guy convert a booster to 12V. He said there was a device to take 120V AC and change it to 12V DC. He bypassed that device. I ran that booster for several years with no problems.

I would like to convert the Modem and Satellite receiver to low voltage, if possible ?? Anyone here know how to do that ??

I recently found some LiFePo4 batteries for 34 cents per wh. I need to see about shipping. I want to start with a 12V system, and, lead just doesn't get it, anymore. 2--220Ahr 6V Golf Car batteries would run me over $400.00 if I bought them down here, and then, have to have them transported over the mountains to me.

I should have my 10-1 gearbox here any day, so I can start building my Wind Turbine. Tower will be the expensive part. Probably use 1½" Angle for the lower section and 1" EMT Conduit for the upper section, crank up style.

[Arlo1]

Will these LED's take fluctuating voltage input without blowing ??

I plug the VOM into an outlet and watch the voltage range from 105 to 128. I have confronted ICE the local monopoly Power and Communications Company and their engineers say that is perfectly OK voltage. Lights out is fairly common, averaging up to 20 momentary blinks per week, sometimes.

Light bulbs don't last for very long. I'm about to start wiring the house for low voltage lighting and power stations.

When I lived in Arkansas, I sold wind turbines, Solar Panels and Towers, along with TV Antennas and rotators and boosters. Had a guy convert a booster to 12V. He said there was a device to take 120V AC and change it to 12V DC. He bypassed that device. I ran that booster for several years with no problems.

I would like to convert the Modem and Satellite receiver to low voltage, if possible ?? Anyone here know how to do that ??

I recently found some LiFePo4 batteries for 34 cents per wh. I need to see about shipping. I want to start with a 12V system, and, lead just doesn't get it, anymore. 2--220Ahr 6V Golf Car batteries would run me over $400.00 if I bought them down here, and then, have to have them transported over the mountains to me.

I should have my 10-1 gearbox here any day, so I can start building my Wind Turbine. Tower will be the expensive part. Probably use 1½" Angle for the lower section and 1" EMT Conduit for the upper section, crank up style.

Depends which LEDs you are talking about. The screw in AC bulbs I have ARE dimmable! The smartest thing you can do is Keep everything DC then just use 12v to power the LEDs. If you want to run your electronics on DC power I think it will make things more efficient because all your electronics have some sort of AC-DC converter and I bet they bring it down to ~12v inside anyway! And the main chip on the curcuit board will likely be running on 5v!

[Harold in CR]

Thanks once again, Arlo.
If folks would try to get away from AC voltage, a LOT of things can be run off a car battery, for temporary times. The house we built, in Arkansas, was wired for 32Volts. I had an old lighting plant with original Edison Batteries. Also had 3 banks of 32V railroad Caboose Batteries. Built a 4KW wind Turbine and had 1 Solar Panel. That is still in Florida. We were off grid for over 4 years. Had all the appliances, using a 3000W Inverter, or battery voltage.

Built a furnace and heated ALL our hot water, just burning packaging and cereal boxes, and yard debris, etc.

Built and sold Musical Instruments using a peckerwood engine or the inverter for power. Had a wood lathe, table saw, planer, sanders of all designs. Still have the Miller Roughneck Stick welder/generator, that we used for battery charging, when the wind was calm. Used DC motors as I came across them, usually Surplus Center.

We were on Springfield, Missouri TV News, and, I'm written up in the Arkansas Energy Dept books to help folks convert. You can see, I USED to be pretty up on this stuff. The old brain is getting foggy.

[Arlo1]

SO from this link Solar what does

The researchers hit the 114 percent external quantum efficiency

mean?

[Jay64]

That link let me to this link, which I think would be really useful in places like Florida and Hawaii. But does anyone know how you can use waste heat to drive an absorption chiller?

"By using the sun's energy to generate electricity and then diverting waste heat to drive an absorption chiller"

[Arlo1]

Dude... If I can use the wasted heat in the house in the winter and then in the summer blow cool air into the house and have photo cells making electricity....

[Jay64]

For a while now I have been wanting to figure out an efficient way to have a "cool" green house. In Hawaii our winter doesn't get cold enough (at least not at sea level) for certain crops like broccoli etc. I wanted to try to make a green house that had a little bit extra cooling to make our winter weather suitable for plants that needed a cold snap. I was considering using PV to run an electric air conditioner, but it seems like it would be a lot more efficient to use excess heat to make a cooler. Maybe it is unrealistic, but I definitely would like to explore the possibilities.
And in Florida, half of our summer electricity consumption comes from our AC unit. If I could figure out a DIY or cheap absorption cooler, that would really help with costs here too.

http://www.gasairconditioning.org/absorption_how_it_works.htm

[Jay64]

Dude... If I can use the wasted heat in the house in the winter and then in the summer blow cool air into the house and have photo cells making electricity....

Hmm, that's a good idea too. Maybe have a seasonal "gate". During the winter the gate is open to divert the heat directly into the house, and in the summer it is closed to send the heat to the absorption cooler. Or something to that effect. I think dual purpose uses like these are what is going to make Solar a lot more reasonable. I think too many times we view things as only having one use, we discard the waste resource and then we try to figure out how to get create those same resources that we just threw away.

[Jay64]

Do you think it would be possible to convert an old window AC unit, so as not to have to totally "reinvent the wheel"?

[Arlo1]

Do you think it would be possible to convert an old window AC unit, so as not to have to totally "reinvent the wheel"?

We have to know how it works first. I meen there is a few videos on you tube with solar ac so we need to see how that works. I bet its simpler then a window AC (heat pump) unit.

[Jay64]

Isn't a typical AC unit just a condenser, heat coils, expansion valve, and cold coils? I wonder if there is a way to repurpose the condenser to condense the refrigerant using heat instead of an electrical pump?

Or possibly use a RV style propane refrigerator unit, that already uses heat to vaporize the refrigerant. Hmm, I do have an old RV toy hauler trailer just sitting around doing nothing that has a propane fridge in it. That would be a cool experiment to see if I could build a solar heat collector to run the Fridge. And the cool thing about the RV fridges, they can switch between the propane powered cooling and 12v electrical cooling with a push of a button. I could have it run on solar during the day and then 12v during the night when the heat collector cools down. I think this could be incorporated into a PV system by having the excess heat of the PV system heat up the solar heat collector.

Now do I want to tear apart my trailer, or do I want to try to find a used RV fridge?