E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

proper159 said:
I'm getting the SE3 pretty soon. I wear a DOT DH helmet and wiped out this week at low speeds and I got rattled. I wear all gform pads (elbow, knees, hip and tail including quads) and a 661 spinal vest. The Gform pads work like a champ and are low profile so they fit nice under pants. When I fell I felt nothing as the material stiffens when you fall due to a chemical reaction. I nearly got hit by a van that suddenly made a right turn into my bike lane in traffic. And the weirdest near crash was yesterday when a woman was talking to her friend while her dog was across the 2 lane street and I ran my bell to let them know I was coming down the hill (after passjng a parked picked up truck who nearly doored me). She ignored me so I began to throttle and she let out a blood curling scream when I realized her leash was outstretched across the road to her dog. I nearly went over the handle bars when I braked hard and then skidded my rear wheel. My peddle nailed me in the knee but the knee pads saved the day. Had I been a car her dog would have been dragged.

So...get all your equipment first. Dial back the power on the Stealth. Work your way up gradually to full confidence of this beast because even though I'm an expert rider I still slipped on wet leaves on a bridge that bent my crank to my swing arm and I nearly got clipped twice this week. Spend as much time being an expert in watching people and cars (especially idiots on cell phones).

Lastly, I just got a pair of Oakley Airbrake MX roll away goggles. ..so impressed that I can clear my lens with one pull of the pulley. The lenses is also durable enough to handle a shotgun blast and this morning I received a nice sized rock to my face from a big truck ahead of me. Really glad I upgraded to goggles from my Racer Jackets.

Ohsnap- I have the Airbrake MX goggles. They're great. Only irritation is I wish they were a little more fog proof and didn't pinch the nose so much when riding them low.

Got myself the SE3 just now, along with some body armour, brace etc. Installed some awesome mudguards on the stealth too. Makes it look like a proper dirt bike.
 
[youtube]REeeYtp-8qE[/youtube]

This looks like fun :D
 
What do you guys think?

If riding on the streets,even if only riding to your favorite dirt track,I would want a bicycle looking helmet.One with ample head protection of course.I say this due to wanting to keep a low as possible profile so as to look like your a bicyclist vs a powerful e-bike.A big motorcycle helmet kinda looks out of place on what is supposed to be a person on a bicycle.Keep the authorities from noticing you.

Good day.

Tim
 
Tim, I think the helmet in stritzky's post pretty much does that. Probably (?) wont protect as well as a full moto helmet though but then I don't ride half as hard as some of you :oops:

stritzky said:
While we are talking about Helmets, What about this one. It is allot lighter than a Motorcycle Helmet.

http://www.bellhelmets.com/en_eu/cycling/helmets/dirt/super-2r-8035

Ok, awesome - thanks for that. :mrgreen:
I have been thinking of looking for a helmet that does exactly that for a few days now.

Get the whole cyclist look going while just toddling about inner 'burbs and then a bit more protection when going a bit harder.

Sure beats my current helmet. :pancake:
 
Got myself the SE3 just now, along with some body armour, brace etc. Installed some awesome mudguards on the stealth too. Makes it look like a proper dirt bike.

Have u a pic of theses mudguards u speak of?
Trying to find some that dont look shit
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
stritzky said:
While we are talking about Helmets, What about this one. It is allot lighter than a Motorcycle Helmet.

http://www.bellhelmets.com/en_eu/cycling/helmets/dirt/super-2r-8035

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-PBt6ozva8


That Super 2R is an interesting helmet. It has a bicycle look that some of us need for legal reasons, but it's also well ventilated for hot weather.

Yea I like it, And eagerly await the release of this thing. They said it should be released some time in October. But I'm still waiting, Not much left of October now.
 
Archer said:
What do you guys think?

If riding on the streets,even if only riding to your favorite dirt track,I would want a bicycle looking helmet.One with ample head protection of course.I say this due to wanting to keep a low as possible profile so as to look like your a bicyclist vs a powerful e-bike.A big motorcycle helmet kinda looks out of place on what is supposed to be a person on a bicycle.Keep the authorities from noticing you.

Good day.

Tim

This has been one of my concerns from day one. I've never worn a motorcycle helmet when riding my Bomber, or any of my motor bicycles for that matter, because I don't want to give anyone any ideas. Of course I'm always riding on the street. If off road that's different, then you'll probably want full protection, but appearances do make a big difference. I got to draw the line at spandex though, but that's a whole different conversation.
 
Yeah I was concerned with the look when I first got my DH helmet with my bomber. I wore Oakley Racer Jackets with an amber lense and iridum purple on sunny days...but when I got the Airbrake goggles the other day....wow...got major dirty looks from dog walkers etc even though I was pedalling slow through wide trails. Even had one dog walker call the cops on me because they were waiting for me at a bridge crossing the next day where I had encountered the dog walker (I dismounted my bike to walk across the bridge). The cops asked me if I was on a dirtbike. I think as long as you keep pedalling and keep speeds low you'll be alright. I'd rather save my noggin and my teeth by wearing a solid helmet. TV I keep thinking about what you mentioned about Dallas and SUV cellphone drivers...I think of this everytime some mom with a pink pullover in a Range Rover glued to her iPhone.
 
Just to toss it out there, I parked right under the nose of a cop van the other day when we were at a red light waiting on Oxford Street no less- London's busiest pedestrian thorofare. I had a D2 helmet on in the most extravagant colours, elbow pads visible and my bright moto gloves. Did anyone bat an eyelid? No of course not.

I'd much rather go for the protection anyday. Besides, I find whilst wearing a full face helmet definitely puts you into a slightly different category- this is exactly what you want motorists to know. If a car thinks you're a normal bike he's likely to assume he has lots of time to pull out. He's likely to assume you can't overtake. If he sees a moto helmet that's going to tip him off that you're actually riding something more capable.

I don't know about cops in other countries, but here in London they don't seem to care. Just don't go flying like a bat out of hell when you see one.
 
stritzky said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
stritzky said:
While we are talking about Helmets, What about this one. It is allot lighter than a Motorcycle Helmet.

http://www.bellhelmets.com/en_eu/cycling/helmets/dirt/super-2r-8035

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-PBt6ozva8


That Super 2R is an interesting helmet. It has a bicycle look that some of us need for legal reasons, but it's also well ventilated for hot weather.

Yea I like it, And eagerly await the release of this thing. They said it should be released some time in October. But I'm still waiting, Not much left of October now.
Try more like January.. Called them lastTues..
 
ryrideswhat said:
I don't know about cops in other countries, but here in London they don't seem to care. Just don't go flying like a bat out of hell when you see one.

I find in very big cities you can pretty much do what you want as the cops have better things to deal with than an E-bike. Not only that, how could they ever catch you if you decide not to stop with all the traffic.

I live in a big city and drive my ebike like a typical bicycle. Red lights are stop signs, driving on the sidewalk, except I do this at much greater speeds. Cops have never bothered me. I think once they see a bicycle helmet they just don't bother. When I spot cops I slow down and pretend to pedal.

I find that wearing a full faced helmet attracts way too much attention. It makes you look like your driving a dirtbike or motorcycle.
 
Anyone need a stealth fighter
Ebay 221584756340
Could be a deal to have there
Its in uk
 
QuestionMan said:
I find that wearing a full faced helmet attracts way too much attention. It makes you look like your driving a dirtbike or motorcycle.

I actually don't think cops know what the law is regarding ebikes, for the most part. Ebikes have the advantage of being quiet. If I pulled up alongside a cop, no plates, with a 'brummbrumbrummmbrumrbummm' noise whirring out of my bike I inagine I might get a finger.

This may change as ebikes become more recognisable, for sure, but I think we are a fair way off that. The Bomber is a big bike, and has very aggressive styling. You might play it down a bit with a top helmet, but I'd prefer to go for the protection.
 
Getting pumped to make the conversion to MC rear tire from Morati. Trying to visualize the difference in speed/handling vs. stock motor (The finished MC wheel has the 4504 or whatever the one Rix has). I'd gladly take higher torque but I've grown accustomed to the "freight train" feeling once I shift to 9th gear. Rix, I know that you have done some swapping with the stock to the 4504, I'll PM you to get the details on how to find the perfect balance between speed and torque.

I haven't tried the new motor, but how would a concrete hill that is about 400 to 500 metres and medium to high grade steepness with about 400 m flat lead up feel like? Right now, I get into the attack position at the stop light with my gearing at 8th gear. By 150 to 200 m on the flat, I shift into 9th gear and pedal like a mad man with full throttle. I have to keep pedaling and keep the throttle on max or else I lose all ability to regain torque and speed midway up the hill. I have over 40 cars chasing me down usually but I can match their speed. Will the 4504 drop down to 45 km/hr at around 200 m on the flat? If it does, can I use that time to lay off the throttle and shift up to 9th and then pedal like a mad men with full torque? Will I lose torque somewhere in the middle of the hill?
 
proper159 said:
Getting pumped to make the conversion to MC rear tire from Morati. Trying to visualize the difference in speed/handling vs. stock motor (The finished MC wheel has the 4504 or whatever the one Rix has). I'd gladly take higher torque but I've grown accustomed to the "freight train" feeling once I shift to 9th gear. Rix, I know that you have done some swapping with the stock to the 4504, I'll PM you to get the details on how to find the perfect balance between speed and torque.

I haven't tried the new motor, but how would a concrete hill that is about 400 to 500 metres and medium to high grade steepness with about 400 m flat lead up feel like? Right now, I get into the attack position at the stop light with my gearing at 8th gear. By 150 to 200 m on the flat, I shift into 9th gear and pedal like a mad man with full throttle. I have to keep pedaling and keep the throttle on max or else I lose all ability to regain torque and speed midway up the hill. I have over 40 cars chasing me down usually but I can match their speed. Will the 4504 drop down to 45 km/hr at around 200 m on the flat? If it does, can I use that time to lay off the throttle and shift up to 9th and then pedal like a mad men with full torque? Will I lose torque somewhere in the middle of the hill?

Yah Proper, its a 5404, and you should pull the hill a little faster than you could with the 5403. The 5404 should give you a top speed of 45-46MPH or about 70-72Km/H. Its a good motor, my dad has it on his Bomber, and would ride anything else.
 
Rix said:
proper159 said:
Getting pumped to make the conversion to MC rear tire from Morati. Trying to visualize the difference in speed/handling vs. stock motor (The finished MC wheel has the 4504 or whatever the one Rix has). I'd gladly take higher torque but I've grown accustomed to the "freight train" feeling once I shift to 9th gear. Rix, I know that you have done some swapping with the stock to the 4504, I'll PM you to get the details on how to find the perfect balance between speed and torque.

I haven't tried the new motor, but how would a concrete hill that is about 400 to 500 metres and medium to high grade steepness with about 400 m flat lead up feel like? Right now, I get into the attack position at the stop light with my gearing at 8th gear. By 150 to 200 m on the flat, I shift into 9th gear and pedal like a mad man with full throttle. I have to keep pedaling and keep the throttle on max or else I lose all ability to regain torque and speed midway up the hill. I have over 40 cars chasing me down usually but I can match their speed. Will the 4504 drop down to 45 km/hr at around 200 m on the flat? If it does, can I use that time to lay off the throttle and shift up to 9th and then pedal like a mad men with full torque? Will I lose torque somewhere in the middle of the hill?

Yah Proper, its a 5404, and you should pull the hill a little faster than you could with the 5403. The 5404 should give you a top speed of 45-46MPH or about 70-72Km/H. Its a good motor, my dad has it on his Bomber, and would ride anything else.
Okay cool. I'm only doing maybe 77 km/hr top speed with stock...and that's going all out on a flat. Stock setup feels unstable at my weight and with a 40 pound backpack. For a 60 km trip will it draw more power from the battery vs. Stock even though I'll be pedaling the same amount in slower sections of my trip. I have about 5 sections that are really fast I.e. bursts of speed for 10 km and then 2 km stretches.
 
ryrideswhat said:
I've probably created the impression that I've just hopped on, gun-ho and hit the throttle, but it wasn't at all like that. I was actually very careful not to hit the throttle too hard, so I'm at a loss as to how I managed to flip it twice. Both times were in front of my house and both times from a standstill however.

I weigh just over 70kg (155 pounds) which might be a factor. I think dropping the seat further may also help. Hopping on right away I feel a tad unstable having to rest on the front of my foot with such a heavy bike. It's not far off my own weight.

The looping out you're experiencing is a combination of a couple of things, the first being inexperience with power. You've had plenty of tips so far. The second part is what happens when you start to tip backwards, have seen this happen for guys getting their first taste of a high performance enduro bike as well - as you start to roll on the throttle and the loop out commences, your grip on the throttle becomes accentuated and rolls on harder as you tip backwards, until the loop out is complete - fortunately for you its happening at relatively low speeds, but on hard surfaces. I once watched a guy nearly tear his nose off in a vineyard on a Husky WR250 making the same mistake in a full face helmet, till his out of control riding was stopped by one of the horizontal wires. Lucky he didn't hurt himself more

On the plus side for you, there are plenty of good riders here to give you sound advice. Heed it, and back off on your power settings, start off without power, just pedalling effiort alone, then progressively bring on the power. Oblique kerbs can be just as tricky as oblique tree roots, so some time spent learning controlled lofting of the front wheel/lightening the front, starting on grass and gentle inclines. You're finding (and going past) your bikes balance point, with every iteration of your loop out. Spend a bit of time reading up on articles like http://www.adbmag.com.au/back-end/1...tyle-how-to-(basic)/log-hop-technique-landing and putting the techniques into practice. Stay safe, have fun..
 
I finally have some good news to report about my regen. I figured out how to make it work so it doesn't loosen my axle bolts. The solution was simple, I wasn't getting the bolt on torque arm clamp tight enough. I'm just flat not strong enough to do it with a little 6" Allen wrench. Using a torque wrench did the trick. It only takes about 15 or 16 ft. lb., but I was only getting about 12 ft. lb. on it.

All you need to do is follow Ricks instructions for tightening the axle bolts. Left side first, then right side. I put 30 ft. lb. on them. Then use a torque wrench to tighten the torque arm clamp. As you tighten the clamp, rotate it clockwise as far was you can, while putting 15 ft. lb. of torque on the bolt. Problem solved.

I gave it a good test today, and the axle bolts didn't budge. Always before it only took a few hits on the regen to make the axle bolts start loosening.

It would be nice if the owners manual had some torque values for this kind of stuff, and also describe the proper sequence for tightening the rear axle bolts.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
It would be nice if the owners manual had some torque values for this kind of stuff, and also describe the proper sequence for tightening the rear axle bolts.

The 'manual' is awful. 48 pages of health warnings and surface operational info. My dealer here tells me this is because Stealth fear copycat companies in Asia, to the point where they forbid shipping to certain parts of the world. Whether or not this is true or not I have no idea, but they do actively request manuals be taken off the net etc.
 
QuietRush said:
ryrideswhat said:
The looping out you're experiencing is a combination of a couple of things, the first being inexperience with power. You've had plenty of tips so far. The second part is what happens when you start to tip backwards, have seen this happen for guys getting their first taste of a high performance enduro bike as well - as you start to roll on the throttle and the loop out commences, your grip on the throttle becomes accentuated and rolls on harder as you tip backwards, until the loop out is complete - fortunately for you its happening at relatively low speeds, but on hard surfaces. I once watched a guy nearly tear his nose off in a vineyard on a Husky WR250 making the same mistake in a full face helmet, till his out of control riding was stopped by one of the horizontal wires. Lucky he didn't hurt himself more

On the plus side for you, there are plenty of good riders here to give you sound advice. Heed it, and back off on your power settings, start off without power, just pedalling effiort alone, then progressively bring on the power. Oblique kerbs can be just as tricky as oblique tree roots, so some time spent learning controlled lofting of the front wheel/lightening the front, starting on grass and gentle inclines. You're finding (and going past) your bikes balance point, with every iteration of your loop out. Spend a bit of time reading up on articles like http://www.adbmag.com.au/back-end/1...tyle-how-to-(basic)/log-hop-technique-landing and putting the techniques into practice. Stay safe, have fun..

Thanks man! I really appreciate all this feedback, and I do follow up on all the links people share and advice people give. It'd be cool if Stealth themselves had a technical rep on the forums themselves. Maybe they do? :shock:
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
I finally have some good news to report about my regen. I figured out how to make it work so it doesn't loosen my axle bolts. The solution was simple, I wasn't getting the bolt on torque arm clamp tight enough. I'm just flat not strong enough to do it with a little 6" Allen wrench. Using a torque wrench did the trick. It only takes about 15 or 16 ft. lb., but I was only getting about 12 ft. lb. on it.

All you need to do is follow Ricks instructions for tightening the axle bolts. Left side first, then right side. I put 30 ft. lb. on them. Then use a torque wrench to tighten the torque arm clamp. As you tighten the clamp, rotate it clockwise as far was you can, while putting 15 ft. lb. of torque on the bolt. Problem solved.

I gave it a good test today, and the axle bolts didn't budge. Always before it only took a few hits on the regen to make the axle bolts start loosening.

It would be nice if the owners manual had some torque values for this kind of stuff, and also describe the proper sequence for tightening the rear axle bolts.
Mine still loosened even with lock tite. My bike mechanic at the bike shop sourced out washers that are slightly larger than the bolt diameter with grooves in the washer. The washer is also a little bit thicker. The nuts are also zinc based. Same procedure as you have listed with lock tite and problem solved with this week being my most abusive riding mileage to date with excessive regen anytime I could.
 
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