P R O J E C T "Y" KILLABICYCLE World record 17 june 2009

Doctorbass

100 GW
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
7,495
Location
Quebec, Canada East
=15 may 2009=
-Begining of the project "Y"
(Y is designed on the memory of the flux capacitor " Y ")
flux_capacitor.jpg


-Goal: building a bicycle capable of reaching 60-65mph and /or under 20sec on the quater mile

-Shall be finished for 16 june 2009.

Project description:

Building a bicycle with the lowest weight as possible, the narrower as possible and the most stable as possible able to carry safely 120 A123 cells in 30s 4p seperated in two packs of 15s with a frame able to fit with a X5 motor and to be able to add some fairing on it with lowest cost.
that bicycle must have pedal and thet must stay usable.
It MUST be finished before 17 june 2009 because this date is the event of the drag racing test with the TV show team that will make an episone about my two bikes and where i'll attempt one or two World record.. Torque and Speed.

Part list:

- small low profile bicycle: found a dual suspension used X game motobike cost 80$can : http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5584942
-120 A123 cells (that i tested individually in Capacity, Ri and SOC), cost 120$ + 130 hour labor
- 18 mosfet controller ( with original IRFB4110 mosfets) tuned to 150A limit
- X5 5303 on a 20" wheel with ( Delta/Wye)
- lexan and coroplast fairing.
- cycle analyst
- low weight driver: Me 8)

Pics or vid soon.
 
Hi Doc,

i kinda think this one looks better for speed?
18" Boys' Hyper Speed BMX Bike :mrgreen:
looks like it would be easier to fab a "full fairing"? but either way best of luck !!!!

Cheers,

D
 
The swingarm design looks questionable. Does your used bike have the triple clamp forks?
 
I certainly hope you will reinforce the headtube, fork, and rebuild some worthy wheels. At those speeds one good bump would destroy a typical walmart wheel.



awesome awesome project. Can't wait to see it come together!
 
johnrobholmes said:
I certainly hope you will reinforce the headtube, fork, and rebuild some worthy wheels. At those speeds one good bump would destroy a typical walmart wheel.



awesome awesome project. Can't wait to see it come together!

Over 30mph this ebike will ONLY be used on Drag racing lane.. so the ground is near perfectly flat :wink:

The actual lenght between two wheel axel is 37" and it is too short for great stability so this sfternoon i'll meet a guy that make custon mike and ask him to add 6" lenght on the front of the bike. The head tube will be 6" more in front of the bike and that will let me more place to put battery just sat the rear of the front wheel.

I'll also choose a new head tube to fit my old RST Mongoose fork that is stronger and safer.

After examinating the killacycle, i catched alot of important details that i want to reproduce on that ebike. The lenght and height of the ebike ratio to the wheel size will be nearly the same.

I also got many lexan fairing coming from a local thermo molding shop that was made for old solar car project for the Laval University and that are no longer used... I got them for 20$ total.

Now the issue that worrie me is the problems that steveo had with the Delta mode with his X5.. I just hope this is not a fact or caracteristic of any X5 that dont allow delta... and that it is only a wiring error.

Does anyone have great suggestion for great quality 20" flat tires that could take 65mph and that are aerodynamic?

Doc
 
gogo said:
The swingarm design looks questionable. Does your used bike have the triple clamp forks?

Have you an exemple of a tripple clamp fork?

On a plane ground like 1/4 mile lane i'll nearly dont really need suspensions... that only add some weight to the ebike i guess no?
 
Sorry i had to :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIoagnswqQI
 
It starts to seem more like a moped when you get away from multi-gears through the pedals. The pedal drive is there more to meet the definition of a bicycle than for actually using.

How about this moped chassis that has the pedal drive seperate from the motor? Just remove the engine and stuff that nice stiff double cradle frame full of batteries.
Benelli.jpg
At some point there would need to be a weight limit along with a pedal driven chain drive requirement. You can put pedals on any motorcycle.
 
Doctorbass said:
gogo said:
The swingarm design looks questionable. Does your used bike have the triple clamp forks?

Have you an exemple of a tripple clamp fork?

On a plane ground like 1/4 mile lane i'll nearly dont really need suspensions... that only add some weight to the ebike i guess no?


Even for flat ground over 100kmh you need suspension, not big, 2-3 cm is enough. It is not for pleasure just to avoid small vibration that can resonate somewhere where you do not need it...
 
I've seen an electric version of the xgames motobike. I'm not sure why its so rarely seen, maybe it got pulled for liability reasons.. I could see that. Illegal for the <16 target demographic on the street. I almost bought one since I'm (physically) over 16, IIRC they came with a small rear hub motor.
 
When I was drag racing a Yamaha RD350 most racers using wheelie bars had no rear suspension. I think this was because suspensions tended to get pegged when power was applied. It also simplified wheelie bar implementation, they just bolted into the shock mounts.

I kept my suspension and used a lightweight wheelie bar comprised of two stiff (compression) elements and four adjustable steel cable (tension) elements. My launches were butter smooth even though I was just dumping the clutch and letting all the slip happen at the tire/pavement interface.
 
It occurs to me since it's a bicycle you should be able to legally pedal and use the motor at the same time for whatever extra speed / reduced time it gives you, and not just rely on the motor alone :)

In theory your legs should be able to provide another 500 watts no ?
Doesn't Armstrong do 1000 watts?

So motor on the front and 54 x 11 on the chain ? :wink:

A stiff frame without shocks will transfer more power from the wheel to your forward motion, no?
 
needWheels said:
A stiff frame without shocks will transfer more power from the wheel to your forward motion, no?
True until you bounce, which then reduces the normal force (weight) on the contact patch. At that point, if you have enough power to break traction, your acceleration will suffer. Doc probably won't be worried about breaking traction so he might be ok with a hardtail.
 
Doctorbass said:
Have you an exemple of a tripple clamp fork?

Doc,

A "triple clamp fork" is the same as a double crown fork, e.g. the one on my bike, a RockShox Boxxer Race:


They are called "triple clamp" because there is a clamp in each of the crowns, plus a clamp at the through axle.
 
wanders said:
Doctorbass said:
Have you an exemple of a tripple clamp fork?

Doc,

A "triple clamp fork" is the same as a double crown fork, e.g. the one on my bike, a RockShox Boxxer Race:


They are called "triple clamp" because there is a clamp in each of the crowns, plus a clamp at the through axle.

Ok thanks!.. I can see $$$$ here :shock:

I am also considering building a true e-DH bike next year.

Doc
 
Hi Doc,

Not a drag racer. but here are my suggestions.

I would go with a longer wheel base for more stability.
I don't know if you will need suspension either in the front or rear.

For the front I would get a set of forks that extend the wheel out in front.
This will give you more clearance between the down tube and the wheel to place your batteries.
If its just a simple fork with no suspension then you don't have to worry about the wheel hitting the batteries.
A second reason to extend the wheel out is to have the front axle forward of your hands when you are in the full tuck position, see below.


This is a small bike so you are going to look big on it.
Elbows sticking out, either chest catching the wind or your back sticking up in the air.

A fairing is good but you also need to tuck down.
I would put a set of aero bars on the front. This will give you a mounting point for the fairing and allow you to tuck down behind it.

I would also install a set of foot pegs just forward of the rear axle.
You will need a guard on each peg to stop your foot getting caught in the wheel.

For the rear I would replace the shock with a shorter connecting rod.
Combined this will lower the bike and your back and give you a better aero profile.

I see in your video that you were wheel spinning and fish tailing off the line.
To maintain control off the line you might have to be sitting up.
You could transition to the more aero position as you pick up speed.
Therefore you could have one first gear throttle on the normal bars and the second gear switch and throttle on the aero bars.

So much to do, so little time.

Good luck Doc. Looking forward to seeing the first sub 20 second bicycle.

Greg
 
Thanks Greg,

All your suggestions make sence to me and my plan is pointing in that direction.

I am right now searching for someone that can solder my frame to extand the head tube 6" more in the front. so the bike will be 6" longer and will have 44.4" wheel to wheel instead of stock 38". that will leave more clrarance for the battery and make the seat position and handle bar more confortable to me. what i want is to have a similar position than a racer bike.

I will have two high pressure slic tires 20" x 1.95" to have less wind drag and high pressure rating will certainly help for speed up to 110km/h.

I'll also put a 8" brake disk in front and will keep the standard brake on rear but i will find some high quality pad for them.

From now i found a head tube coming from another bike that will be perfect for my RST fork and i got the bearing that will fit for the 1 1/8 dia tube of the fork. i'll need to find someone that can solder that new tuve to my frame and also to extend it to 6" on the front.

i'll take pics

Doc
 
The front and rear tires are 20" 1.95 MAXIS 110PSI max. I wat them narrow to be more aerodynamic. and the high pressure make them more solid!

Doc
 
some pics of the developpment:
 

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