GT's Curious Custom build

[gtadmin]

Hi Nick, thanks but I'll reserve judgement until after I finish the other side and give both sides some finishing touches. Initial glassing done tonight, with the mat and cloth to be done tomorrow night. May not work out but if it does, it'll look good (at least in my opinion ).

Cheers mate,
GT

[gtadmin]

Hi guys, almost got the "tank" up to scratch


Needs trimming, priming, spray putty, priming, and colour - matte or flat black. I would like to coat it with a very thin layer of epoxy resin, anyone know how to thin it to spray? And can I put this on the top of the paint, or will the epoxy affect the paint? My gut feeling is I can overlay it.

In case you're wondering, the tank is held in with one screw at the front and by the brake and shifter cables at the rear.

Cheers,
GT

[gtadmin]

Hi guys,

I thought I would quickly mock-up the bike as I'm looking for inspiration on how to mount the batteries. Originally, I was going to use SLA AGMs and arrange them to look like a "V"-twin, but due to a slight miscalculation (by 10mm) and my use of LiPo with the Aprilia, that's changed. Now I think I'll need to mount them similar to how AJ has on his newest build.

The yellow level (for scale) is 1 metre long (39 3/8"), and the red line is at 500mm (about 19 3/4"). The seat base height is 580 (22 3/4") and an overall length of 1970 (77 1/2")


(Photo is for printing and sketchup)

I was also looking for an OZ online supplier of NordLock washers and found this bolt store http://www.bolt.com.au Ordered some rivnuts and quite a bit of SS cap screws also I need to order almost everything online as there are no local suppliers for most of the stuff I want

Cheers,
GT

[gtadmin]

Hi guys, I have spent the last couple of weekends building my busbars. I looked around but couldn't find an obscure coin to provide scaling (which appears to be the norm for most people on this forum) so a mundane twin scale ruler will have to do! Here they are:



Also, I have added a 4mm "rivnut" to the frame (to attach the "tank"), trimmed the "tank", primed, sanded, spray puttied, sanded, spot puttied and sanded it. Here it is with only a couple of spots that need sanding prior to the next coat of primer.



Cheers,
GT

[gtadmin]

Started making my balance lead paralleling boards tonight.

Step 1. Take some veroboard (prototyping board), score both sides of the board to the size of the balance lead parallel boards, and snap them off. I used the knife shown
Step 2. Drill the holes that will be used to mount them.
Step 3. Remove the copper tracks near the mounting holes so that the mounting screws don't short anything. I used a 3mm (or 1/8") drill mounted in a small, "T" tap handle.
Step 4. Push the JST connector pins through the holes in the veroboard. Ensure all the connectors are orientated the same way.
Step 5. Solder them! Bugger I'm blind!
Step 6. Test that there are no shorts.

All up: 22 connectors $16, veroboard $5 (for 5x balance lead paralleling boards)




Edit: called then balance boards when they are balance lead paralleling boards

[gtadmin]

Hi guys, some updates ...

Firstly, a piccie of all the batteries and wires



Ok, so how to mount all these into my frame?

Firstly, grab some certified environmentally sustainable plywood ...



Shape it to fit the frame (x3), cut out and replace with aluminium where the bolts are going to go ...



Check that the batteries will fit ...



Build a frame from 65x19 pine, glue and dowelled together, clamped while the glue dries ...



Add the batteries and check that everything fits ...



Jigsaw a cutout into the preglued 3x thick plywood to suit the box, centralise it, keep it in place by using quarter round glued and dowelled ...



Once it was all completed, primed the wood and stress tested it - cook and bottle washer volunteered* so that's about 900N downforce while the assembly is supported at both ends only ...


* this means she was bribed with a new handbag

Mixed some fibreglass resin, gave it one coat all over, and then added fibreglass cloth on both sides to give the box even more penetration resistance. Once this had all dried, 7x 2mm tabs were welded to the frame to mount the battery enclosure using stainless steel cap head screws and nyloc nuts. Did a very quick mockup ...



Prime tomorrow

[johnrobholmes]

looking good! I like the backbone look of it.

[gtadmin]

Thanks John. It was done primarily for lateral stiffness (and to hide most of the wires). I think it also looks good, just slightly "different"

Cheers,
GT

[gtadmin]

A brief update (well the update's brief, the work wasn't ) Got the frame and all small parts primed today. No piccies as they would be the same as previous, only grey! Spray putty next week (weather permitting)

[AussieJester]

hrmz...bus bars look familar seen them somewhere before

Battery enclosure looks great mate, keen to see how she comes up when
the paint is done

KiM

[gtadmin]

hrmz...bus bars look familar seen them somewhere before

Battery enclosure looks great mate, keen to see how she comes up when
the paint is done

KiM

Hi KiM, yeah I had always intended to use busbars where there were more than two batteries involved, but I couldn't work out how to solder the connectors. I have a BIG LPG/Air torch which is too big, and several soldering irons which are too small, so I did the aussie thing - left it until I actually had to do it Then I saw your post in your thread on using the little pen torches and I knew it'd be alright.

Enclosure is strong and relatively light - I would've done it in ali if I had a TIG - but I don't, so composite it is! Needs a bit of smoothing out and then hit with satin black so should look OK. Edit: Ohh, and silver flaked then coated with polyurethane

Cheers mate,
GT

[gtadmin]

Hi guys, bit more work (OK, a lot: about 20 hours of wet-rubbing here including forks):


After priming, there was spot putty, wet-rub, spray putty, wet-rub, spray-putty & finally web-rub again.


One coat of satin black (for those interested, it's a Galmet single pack epoxy, thinned by 15% with all-purpose thinners)


Bottom bracket, mounting brackets in red and stainless steel cap screws. This photo does not do the red justice - it is extremely high gloss in the brightest red I have ever seen.

GT

[gtadmin]

Fcuk, turned the frame upside down to spray all the areas that can't be done with the frame upright, and gave it a nice, even coat of satin black. Went to pick up the "hangers" so that I could spin it over without damaging what I had just sprayed, and a "whirly whirly" came through, picked up the frame and chucked it into the dirt



I"M PISSED

Edit 3 hours later after cooling off Washed all the crap off once the paint was "almost off", then wet-rubbed it back. Ok to spray tomorrow (weather permitting)

[gtadmin]

Able to spray it today, one coat only. The really bright, shiny red look "pink" in these pics Guess you have to see it in the flesh

20110918_1.jpg (108.02 KiB) Viewed 522 times

20110918_2.jpg (173.69 KiB) Viewed 522 times

(Never mind the Whyalla lawn in the background)

[amberwolf]

I like that girder-over-panel look...you are REALLY tempting me to make my new bike actually look nice instead of the usual ratbike look.

[AussieJester]

Able to spray it today, one coat only. The really bright, shiny red look "pink" in these pics Guess you have to see it in the flesh

20110918_1.jpg

20110918_2.jpg

(Never mind the Whyalla lawn in the background)

The black and red look great together, black red polished ali/chrome go well
together, this bike will look trick when shes back together ...good job

KiM

[gtadmin]

I like that girder-over-panel look...you are REALLY tempting me to make my new bike actually look nice instead of the usual ratbike look.

Hi AW, I like my "stuff" nice, but I don't have to worry that it will be knocked off either

...
The black and red look great together, black red polished ali/chrome go well
together, this bike will look trick when shes back together ...good job

KiM

Thanks mate, but there won't be too much polished ali or chrome. I'm thinking of painting the handlebars and head stem satin black too (not committed though )
Oh, and black and red always goes together (and black and orange, and black and gold, and black and .... )

[izeman]

can't wait for the next pictures. what a nice job done! congratulations from austria (where there are no kangaroos )

[gtadmin]

can't wait for the next pictures. what a nice job done! congratulations from austria (where there are no kangaroos )

Thanks mate, I can hardly wait myself (cause that means the bike will be closer to being finished), but all in good time - can't rush the painting process else I won't get the finish I'm looking for

[gtadmin]

A few photos, hope you find them enjoyable






Size comparison to the 26" Aprilia


Bike assembled this morning and ridden around to get the mechanical bugs eradicated. I think I may have assembled the bottom bracket incorrectly - does the bearing cage face outwards or inwards (it's been a long time since I disassembled and can't remember and can't find a reference on the net). There is some motor drag, but the battery box still needs another coat of paint so it will be a little while until it's electrically ready. The colour chosen for the battery box is dark graphite grey, which will be "flaked" and clear coated.

I don't know which way to jump as far as the seat goes either:

1. Pad it, and find some way to upholster it;
2. Paint it as it is, either in red or black (my preference at the moment);

I'm open to suggestions here

Cheers,
GT

[AussieJester]

I have a heap of black vinyl suitable for seat upholstery, happy to cut you some roll it up and post it
your way, the foam howerver i can't help with.. Lookin' good anywayz, some ride video
when you have it all sorted would also be great!

That Aprila frame looks nuts! Any plans to pimp/mod/non frock that puppy?!

KiM

[amberwolf]

I think I may have assembled the bottom bracket incorrectly - does the bearing cage face outwards or inwards (it's been a long time since I disassembled and can't remember and can't find a reference on the net).

AFAIK the cage has to face inwards, or else it rubs on the bearing face of the BB races. If you hold the parts together outside of the BB, you'll see what I mean. I tried to find a photo reference on the web real quick, but didn't. For adjusting the BB, you might want to go to Sheldon Brown's site and go thru his and Jobst's articles on it.

FWIW, I usually take bearings out of the cages and just stick them to the races with grease, since half the time the cages are all twisted up or rusted when i get the bikes they come from.


I'd pad and upholster the seat, but that's just my comfort side talking. It would probably *look* jsut as good bare painted.

I like the bike so far; the red/black makes me think of batwings for some reason; I'm sure it'll be a very different look once batteries and stuff are installed in the frame.

[gtadmin]

I have a heap of black vinyl suitable for seat upholstery, happy to cut you some roll it up and post it
your way, the foam howerver i can't help with.. Lookin' good anywayz, some ride video
when you have it all sorted would also be great!

That Aprila frame looks nuts! Any plans to pimp/mod/non frock that puppy?!

KiM

Thanks for the offer KiM but I have all the materials, it's the"doing" that I'm not confident about The Aprilia already has a bottom bracket driven motor running 8S LiPo, the only one with the frock is my custom

...
AFAIK the cage has to face inwards, or else it rubs on the bearing face of the BB races. If you hold the parts together outside of the BB, you'll see what I mean. I tried to find a photo reference on the web real quick, but didn't. For adjusting the BB, you might want to go to Sheldon Brown's site and go thru his and Jobst's articles on it.

I looked it up there first, but found no reference. It did show the cages going outwards for the head tube, so I copied that for the BB (which means I disassembled it and changed it over). I found I couldn't adjust it correctly, so disassembled it again and put it back the way I had it Cages go inwards!

I'd pad and upholster the seat, but that's just my comfort side talking. It would probably *look* jsut as good bare painted.

Quite comfortable as it is, so I'm going to paint it and if I don't like the "look" of it, I'll deal with upholstering it later. Might put some "speed" holes in it first

Thanks for your input guys, I appreciate it.

GT

[amberwolf]

It did show the cages going outwards for the head tube, so I copied that for the BB (which means I disassembled it and changed it over). I found I couldn't adjust it correctly, so disassembled it again and put it back the way I had it Cages go inwards!

Basically the cages have to go on the cone side of any cone/cup bearing race setup.

[NeilP]

Amazing looking bike and some lovely work there, with amazing attention to detail. but one thing that has me puzzled...why did you go for front wheel drive rahter than rear wheel.

I have only ridden two electric bikes...my 55mph 100volt 5304 powered rear wheel drive mongoose,and a 300 Watt front wheel drive bike I built for the girlfriend.
And oh...how much do I dislike front wheel drive...even at with a low power 300 watt motor the front wheel always spins out on gravel, and is terrible on a wet road...so much power seems to get lost with front wheel drive and cornering in the wet or loose surfaces is positively dangerous...
so why front wheel drive when rear would make the handling so much better?