Custom elektric bike build

Linukas · Jul 1, 2011

Hello here is my little storry of my build:
It all started on that I wanted to make a fast electric bike, but I could not find a suitable frame where I could properly put ~ 1kwh battery, controller and a powerful charger. So, I started to design my own frame. For frame material I chose stainless steel because it was easy to get the right profiles. There are some pictures of building:
some sketches:

used parts:
- Clyte 3540 hub, with added hall sensors, 2x thicker phase wires and additional varnish layer on windings;
- Lyen 6fet pcb with little SMD fets that package can withstand 240A;
- 32pcs Headway 10ah cells 16s2p with standard BMS (this BMS is just for test)
- integrated 1.2kw ac/dc power supply for charging.
- all bike parts will be from DH bike.

and building begun:

finished welding:

and finaly I assemble all bike for first test, results are exactly I planed:
weight ~40kg;
top speed 60km/h;
acceleration is very good (it's impossible to keep front wheel on ground in first meters on full throttle).

sorry, but in pictures bike parts are not all right for this bike, in a week or two I must get all "right" DH bike parts and make some more photos:

I'm planing to make more frames for my friends, so if anyone would like a frame, please write, I'll put new topic on sale section.

--
Linas

adrian_sm · Jul 1, 2011

Nice bike.

Can you tell me more about the 6fet 240A SMD FET controller.

Again beautiful work.

- Adrian

adrian_sm · Jul 1, 2011

Linukas · Jul 1, 2011

this is my first pictures on ES forum, I corrected all pictures, please delete your replay

as for 6fet controller, I'm using standard board with IRFS3107-7PPBF fets mounted on 3mm thick copper sheets and sheets are attached to +, - and phase wires, here are couple photo:

it is just tested until 80A of battery current...

--
Linas

GCinDC · Jul 1, 2011

nice work. how long did all that take? 24" wheels? lipo? what charger?

Linukas · Jul 1, 2011

collecting parts for ~2 months and frame building ~1 week spare time.
yes, wheels are DH 24". As I mentioned before 32pcs headway lifepo4 and lineage car1248 ac/dc converter for charging.
this build is not finished, I'm still waiting some bike parts and good BMS.

adrian_sm · Jul 1, 2011

Lot's to like about this build.

So does the battery pack drop out the bottom of the frame?

How wide is the frame?
- I have a 10Ah headway pack frame mounted with the cells running side to side, and I wouldn't want it any wider than the length of the cells if you still like to pedal.

How is all the electronics arrange inside?

Is there a seperate enclosure for the controller? Or is it just mounted in the main box in the middle.

That is one hell of a powersupply for charging.
http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lineage-Power/CAR1248FPBCXZ01A/?qs=qHByVky/dAHC7KVNZAWCMA==
I assume that is external from the bike. At that price, I would want it damaged when bouncing around.

Very slick looking frame. I am sure you will get some interest if you offer it up for sale. But you may want to start a separate thread to advertise. As people may not stumble across it otherwise.

- Adrian

P.S. I have got to learn to weld.

sn0wchyld · Jul 1, 2011

very nice frame. What kind of welds are they? tig?
and a 6fet running 80amp :shock:

wow. nice work.

John in CR · Jul 2, 2011

Linas,

Beautiful ! I want one for the right price. I will want mine with a far lower minimum saddle height (6" lower seat tube), 6" longer swingarm, and clamping dropouts with 2" of fwd/rear range of adjustment to fine tune CG positioning.

Linukas · Jul 2, 2011

thanks for good comments

adrian_sm said:
Lot's to like about this build.

So does the battery pack drop out the bottom of the frame?

Yes you are right.

adrian_sm said:
How wide is the frame?
- I have a 10Ah headway pack frame mounted with the cells running side to side, and I wouldn't want it any wider than the length of the cells if you still like to pedal.

external frame wide is 125mm, battery pack wide is 85mm. in it fits 32pcs HW 10ah cells with welding tabs (or 22pcs a123 20ah cells), modified 6fet controller, small bms and car1248 power supply.

adrian_sm said:
How is all the electronics arrange inside?

Is there a seperate enclosure for the controller? Or is it just mounted in the main box in the middle.

That is one hell of a powersupply for charging.
http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lineage-Power/CAR1248FPBCXZ01A/?qs=qHByVky/dAHC7KVNZAWCMA==
I assume that is external from the bike. At that price, I would want it damaged when bouncing around.

Battery box is made from aluminium, controller is attached to box and it works like controller heatsink. near controller is mounted this car1248 power supply and bms. in a week I'll try to make some photos of battery box inside.

adrian_sm said:
Very slick looking frame. I am sure you will get some interest if you offer it up for sale. But you may want to start a separate thread to advertise. As people may not stumble across it otherwise.

- Adrian

P.S. I have got to learn to weld.

Linukas · Jul 2, 2011

sn0wchyld said:
very nice frame. What kind of welds are they? tig?
and a 6fet running 80amp wow. nice work.

yes, welds are TIG.
80a is not max, I'll try to get more than 100A from it

--
Linas

Ricky_nz · Jul 2, 2011

Great job, Nice looking frame. I like it more than "The worlds best E-bike frame" in its thread

.
Interesting route to a small controller.

adrian_sm · Jul 2, 2011

Ricky_nz said:
Great job, Nice looking frame. I like it more than "The worlds best E-bike frame" in its thread .
Interesting route to a small controller.

+1

bongoboy · Jul 2, 2011

Ricky_nz said:
Great job, Nice looking frame. I like it more than "The worlds best E-bike frame" in its thread .
.

Hi Linas,

What a great design and finished bike and yes I'd put your frame well above the so called "The worlds best E-bike frame" too. Your use of twin, tall narrow box section is really a great way to build a frame for a ebike not to mention the batteries dropping out the bottom. So the charger is in battery box too (?) - genius! If I may ask what wall thickness on the frame tubes?

Oh and what colour are you going to paint it?

- Bongo

AussieJester · Jul 2, 2011

LOVE the frame design and also looks very well built :wink: any chance we will ever
see a non hub motored variant of it?

KiM

sn0wchyld · Jul 2, 2011

bongoboy said:
Ricky_nz said:

Great job, Nice looking frame. I like it more than "The worlds best E-bike frame" in its thread .
.

Click to expand...

Hi Linas,

What a great design and finished bike and yes I'd put your frame well above the so called "The worlds best E-bike frame" too. Your use of twin, tall narrow box section is really a great way to build a frame for a ebike not to mention the batteries dropping out the bottom. So the charger is in battery box too (?) - genius! If I may ask what wall thickness on the frame tubes?

Oh and what colour are you going to paint it?

- Bongo

paint it!?!? no way!! its stainless steel, show that S!#t off!!

Linukas · Jul 2, 2011

sn0wchyld said:
bongoboy said:

Ricky_nz said:

Great job, Nice looking frame. I like it more than "The worlds best E-bike frame" in its thread .
.

Click to expand...

Hi Linas,

What a great design and finished bike and yes I'd put your frame well above the so called "The worlds best E-bike frame" too. Your use of twin, tall narrow box section is really a great way to build a frame for a ebike not to mention the batteries dropping out the bottom. So the charger is in battery box too (?) - genius! If I may ask what wall thickness on the frame tubes?

Oh and what colour are you going to paint it?

- Bongo

Click to expand...

paint it!?!? no way!! its stainless steel, show that S!#t off!!

YES it will be without paint

--
Linas

Linukas · Jul 2, 2011

AussieJester said:
LOVE the frame design and also looks very well built :wink: any chance we will ever
see a non hub motored variant of it?

KiM

At first idea was to build non hub motor e-bike, but now there are no good controllers for something like RC motors, so I firstly decide to make hub motor type e-bike, also at first I need pedals to look like bike for legal ride in streets.
I think that hub motor is good for ride in city, it has vary little noise, no maintenance, there are no chain (that works like main power transfer)
But in near future (when my friend finish work on good controller) I'll make non-hub e-bike. it will be high end ~20kw power and same weight ~40kg e-bike.
Also there is chance that I'll make more totally assembled e-bikes and STREET LEGAL like scooters with all sertificates.

--
Linas

beast775 · Jul 2, 2011

awesome frame!! looks slick without paint.

Linukas · Jul 2, 2011

beast775 said:
awesome frame!! looks slick without paint.

Thanks,
frame is electrochemically polished.

--
Linas

spinningmagnets · Jul 2, 2011

Linukas, I can't find the words to tell you how much I like your frame! What country and city are you living in?

I love the dual rectangular top-bar, and the slide-out battery box. The way you have the swing-arm pivot inline with the BB is brilliant, and I have only seen a few others who have done this. It allows a clean and simple non-derailler chainline, and gears can be added by including an Internally-Geared-Hub (IGH) such as the Nexus/Rolhoff, etc...also possibly a Schumpf BB.

For me to make ANY suggestion, well...I feel like a one-legged man telling an athelete how to run better, but...I can't help but to say something.

You mention that it wheelies easily, and this limits power application. In the pic below, Luke has stretched his hardtail race-bike to mount the motor just in front of the rear wheel. Geared hubs (like cell_man), and also the Agni-motor are both about 206mm/8.2" in diameter. They are likely the biggest motors that anyone would want to use as a non-hub drive.

If you stretched the rear swingarm just a little, your frame would be less "wheelie-prone" due to the longer wheelbase. If you were to stretch it just enough to fit a 210mm motor in that space, it would open up the frame geometry to a wide variety of motor options, including a BB-drive such as the Cyclone system.

edit: +1 on the raw frame look, its totally E-bike gangsta, maybe sandblast it and coat with satin-finish clear-coat?

Linukas · Jul 2, 2011

spinningmagnets said:
Linukas, I can't find the words to tell you how much I like your frame! What country and city are you living in?

I'm from Lithuania, city Kaunas.

spinningmagnets said:
I love the dual rectangular top-bar, and the slide-out battery box. The way you have the swing-arm pivot inline with the BB is brilliant, and I have only seen a few others who have done this. It allows a clean and simple non-derailler chainline, and gears can be added by including an Internally-Geared-Hub (IGH) such as the Nexus/Rolhoff, etc...also possibly a Schumpf BB.

For me to make ANY suggestion, well...I feel like a one-legged man telling an athelete how to run better, but...I can't help but to say something.

You mention that it wheelies easily, and this limits power application. In the pic below, Luke has stretched his hardtail race-bike to mount the motor just in front of the rear wheel. Geared hubs (like cell_man), and also the Agni-motor are both about 206mm/8.2" in diameter. They are likely the biggest motors that anyone would want to use as a non-hub drive.

it wheelies but not too much on max power I tested, but mostly it is because of not good controller adjustment and with little lighter hand on throttle it goes very good, for rideing in city streets it's just perfect.
as for non hub-drive version - I'm little artist (architect) so to me design is very important and I think such big motors are not for "clean" e-bike, better will be like turnigy 120-70 ( http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14427 )
fot high end RC drive version will be little different frame (idea will be the same)

spinningmagnets said:
If you stretched the rear swingarm just a little, your frame would be less "wheelie-prone" due to the longer wheelbase. If you were to stretch it just enough to fit a 210mm motor in that space, it would open up the frame geometry to a wide variety of motor options, including a BB-drive such as the Cyclone system.

edit: +1 on the raw frame look, its totally E-bike gangsta, maybe sandblast it and coat with satin-finish clear-coat?

As I see mostly of you very good understood my idea, this bike is designed with as possible less additional details, just what is exactly needed for daily commute (I know that there is no space for bag, but it is possible to add standard bike back seat for bag on seat tube)

--
Linas

Malcolm · Jul 2, 2011

Very nice work Linukas! I've just been talking about building a stainless frame with another member, so it's great to see this. Do you know how much the bare frame weighs?

A concentric swingarm pivot and bottom bracket is also on my wish list. I'm curious about your design. I can't see any bearing in your close-up photo. Did you use a bushing or a bearing outside the bottom bracket shell?

Malcolm

Linukas · Jul 3, 2011

Malcolm said:
Very nice work Linukas! I've just been talking about building a stainless frame with another member, so it's great to see this. Do you know how much the bare frame weighs?

A concentric swingarm pivot and bottom bracket is also on my wish list. I'm curious about your design. I can't see any bearing in your close-up photo. Did you use a bushing or a bearing outside the bottom bracket shell?

Malcolm

Bare frame with BB weigh ~9kg. it's not very lightweight, but stainless steel eliminates a number of problem areas such as strong torque arms. small and good looking BB and swing arm connections, painting. Also I was calculating frame from alluminium and weight was about 2-4kg less and was impossible to get right profiles. for big quantity manufacturer aluminium will be better, but not for small quantities.
I'm using bushing, because there are no bearing that can fit in this place.

--
Linas

sn0wchyld · Jul 3, 2011

whats the 'dry' weight of the bike? as in no batts,motor etc, just the bike as if you were going to ride it under pedal power alone? 9kg is heavy, but im guessing thats gonna be near impossible to break.

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