GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby gensem » Wed May 02, 2012 3:45 pm

GC if you must use the controller in a somewhat closed environment, just use a hi cfm computer fan. Your controller ll be cooler than it was before.
Downside is that a DC-DC converter is needed.
A decent 25mph bike will cost around $1000.
A decent 35mph bike will cost around $2000.
A $1000 35mph bike will get you killed.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Wed May 02, 2012 6:30 pm

gensem wrote:GC if you must use the controller in a somewhat closed environment, just use a hi cfm computer fan. Your controller ll be cooler than it was before.
Downside is that a DC-DC converter is needed.

good idea. where to vent? hmm.

having second thoughts about the pelican. we'll see.

today's episode, squirting juice in first scene, then some shenanigans (w/ front brake only) anyway. plus a morning clip or two.

hookworms don't have the best stopping power, i find. squeely ain't they?
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby gensem » Wed May 02, 2012 7:14 pm

GCinDC wrote:good idea. where to vent? hmm.

having second thoughts about the pelican. we'll see.
hookworms don't have the best stopping power, i find. squeely ain't they?


Put some load on the pelican and go for a spin, its not bad at all.
If you get a 80mm fan that has about 80cfm you can mount it anywhere you like it. Im using one fan near the frame headset area inside the triangle.
A decent 25mph bike will cost around $1000.
A decent 35mph bike will cost around $2000.
A $1000 35mph bike will get you killed.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Wed May 02, 2012 8:03 pm

i've got some more lipo coming, and am thinking of running 25s to get that mc tire moving faster, so it really depends on how i arrange them..

was about to delete the unused footage from today's ride, but i thought i'd go ahead and show you
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby rui_fujino » Wed May 02, 2012 8:08 pm

GCinDC wrote:i've got some more lipo coming, and am thinking of running 25s to get that mc tire moving faster, so it really depends on how i arrange them..

was about to delete the unused footage from today's ride, but i thought i'd go ahead and show you

that's pretty strong head light! is that the one you connected to the CA?
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Wed May 02, 2012 8:18 pm

strong for the price and convenience! not really otherwise, compared to other things. in fact i should do a side by side with the p7(?). i don't ride at night much, so honestly, a strobe might even be more effective in getting driver's attention during the day... cheap strobes can be mounted without cnc'ing parts or, in my case, using a pair of worm clamps. :mrgreen:
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby Hyena » Thu May 03, 2012 1:31 am

Nice little recharge cave! You should leave a little motion sensing LED light in there :P
What happened in the first scene ? The hard braking blew a leak in your hydro hose ?
How would you say the new headlight compares to the P7 ?
I used to use a P7 and now have switched to a T6 which looks a tad brighter. I've been eyeing off those ones but not sure they're worth it for their extra size...
It's coming into winter now so I need it for the return commute but in your case a strobing P7 or T6 would probably be better and take up less space.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby full-throttle » Thu May 03, 2012 6:48 am

What camera mount are you using? Buckle mount?

Here's a new inspirational vid
http://www.pinkbike.com/video/252853/
Trippy :shock:
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby Ypedal » Thu May 03, 2012 7:09 am

Hyena wrote:Nice little recharge cave! You should leave a little motion sensing LED light in there :P
What happened in the first scene ? The hard braking blew a leak in your hydro hose ?
How would you say the new headlight compares to the P7 ?
I used to use a P7 and now have switched to a T6 which looks a tad brighter. I've been eyeing off those ones but not sure they're worth it for their extra size...
It's coming into winter now so I need it for the return commute but in your case a strobing P7 or T6 would probably be better and take up less space.


I've used P7 flashlights and nothing comes close to the Cycle Lumenator !!... they are expensive but awsome flood without rings or beams.. :wink:
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby crusoe » Thu May 03, 2012 1:17 pm

Hey GC, did you have any problems with your chainline at all with Kiwi's dropouts? What size of chainring are you running up front? What size is your bottom bracket? Specs of rear cassette? Do you have the 135mm swingarm? haha, many questions I know but I'm trying to find the best combo before I slice my swingarm in half!

I'm running:
38t 104bcd chainring up front
7 speed cassette, 11tooth is smallest cog
100mm bottom bracket

I need to fix the chain rubbing on the bottom swingarm. Here's a picture of the damage done to the lower right half of the swingarm: http://i.imgur.com/9Qjxn.jpg
About a 2-3mm deep gouge that runs about 10cm

I've just purchased a 42t ring, hoping that will lift the chain enough, but even with full suspension bottoming, the chain i think will still rub
Any help would be great!
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Thu May 03, 2012 1:28 pm

crusoe wrote:Hey GC, did you have any problems with your chainline at all with Kiwi's dropouts?

have 7spd freewheel, can't go into bottom 11t. lowest it goes into is 12 or 13t.
What size of chainring are you running up front?

44T
What size is your bottom bracket? Do you have the 135mm swingarm?

No idea (actually probably 104) and Yes.
haha, many questions I know but I'm trying to find the best combo before I slice my swingarm in half!

i was like, what are you talking about, and then i saw the pic. that's nasty:
Image

lookee back here. that ought to solve your probs, esp if you stay out of 11t.
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby crusoe » Thu May 03, 2012 2:07 pm

Thanks for the links! I'm hoping that if I move to the 42t, and get a new 13/14-whatever, cassette, instead of the 11-28 I have now, I should be ok.

Is there a way to remove the big cogs near the hub, and shift the smaller more useful cogs, to the left (if you're looking at the bike from behind the rear tire) I wonder?
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby Sacman » Thu May 03, 2012 3:37 pm

crusoe wrote:Is there a way to remove the big cogs near the hub, and shift the smaller more useful cogs, to the left (if you're looking at the bike from behind the rear tire) I wonder?

If you don't need the full 7-speed... you can just buy lesser speed threaded freewheels with fewer cogs (ie. 6-speed, 5-speed, 4-speed...etc.). Do a search. Only issue here is it might be difficult to find them with the small 11T cog.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Thu May 03, 2012 3:44 pm

crusoe wrote:Is there a way to remove the big cogs near the hub, and shift the smaller more useful cogs, to the left (if you're looking at the bike from behind the rear tire) I wonder?

pretty sure the 11t cog is smaller than the shaft there, so it's gotta overhang somewhat, but not sure by how much. docbass, is he still listening? he wizardly rebuilt one as you suggest... search time.

what front ring are you using now? i'll measure my 44T for you, which is sure to be large enough, but in the meantime, by god, please tape some plastic over that ungodly gash, for sooth.
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Thu May 03, 2012 4:28 pm

it's only an hs3540 but i feel like i'm having a fourth child...

some deliveries are special..

just a teaser. a lot of work to do later! :twisted:
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby crusoe » Thu May 03, 2012 10:35 pm

I'm using a 38t front ring. I just ordered a 42t. I haven't been able to find any videos or detailed docs on how to actually separate the freewheel sprockets from each other. Once I figure out how I'm going to throw a video up on youtube!

Found it as soon as I knew doctorbass did a write up! Thanks for the tip on that
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27108&hilit=freewheel
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby Sacman » Thu May 03, 2012 10:59 pm

Justin sells 6-speed and 5-speed 14t-28t freewheels on his Grin Cyclery online store for only $17 USD
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_motors.php
scroll half-way down the page to find them.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby crusoe » Thu May 03, 2012 11:06 pm

Nice! I always forget to check them. I think I'm going to go even smaller than 5 spd to get this chain issue solved. I was thinking http://www.amazon.com/Sprocket-Wheel-Freewheel-Scooter-Bicycle/dp/B0053WWHK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336104068&sr=8-1

Would that fit on the HS?
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby Sacman » Fri May 04, 2012 12:35 am

crusoe wrote:Nice! I always forget to check them. I think I'm going to go even smaller than 5 spd to get this chain issue solved. I was thinking http://www.amazon.com/Sprocket-Wheel-Freewheel-Scooter-Bicycle/dp/B0053WWHK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336104068&sr=8-1

Would that fit on the HS?


Nice find on that 3-speed freewheel as well. But looking closely at the pics ... the thick threaded section (behind the round white plastic guard) seems to make the overall stack height equivalent to a 5-speed freewheel. Which means the 3 sprockets are in the same position (and are the same distance away from the hubmotor) as the smallest 3 sprockets of the 5-speed freewheel.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby crusoe » Fri May 04, 2012 7:54 am

Hmm, ya, I see what you're saying. These are the dimensions of the 3speed:

Product Features
Screw Inner Diameter : 34mm; Other Inner Diameter: 23mm
Outside Diameter: 83mm x 58mm; Pitch (tooth to tooth): 9mm
Tooth Width: 3mm;
Overall Depth: 20mm
Tooth Quantity: 20, 17, 14

Does anyone know the dimensions of the 5speed so we can find out for certain if they are the same size?

Found the dimensions of a "regular" 5 speed, on here http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html Scroll down to the heading Cassette /Freewheel Spacing

It says the 5 speeds are 23.3mm. So if that applies to ebikes.ca 5 speed also, then I'll gain at least 3mm going with the 3 speed
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Sat May 05, 2012 2:12 pm

REAR BRAKE
Hyena wrote:What happened in the first scene ? The hard braking blew a leak in your hydro hose ?

yes, because i had negligently allowed the braid to get cut by rotor, since the hose was so taut... and i was going to replace the hose anyway.
Image
problem is that hose cannot be replaced by any old hose. it must have prebuilt banjo ends. this i discovered after several trips to bike shops and lots of online research... :( not to mention $30 for new hose, $20 for hydro mineral oil, $20 for pads... the hose i'll try to get a refund for. but to think i could get the magura mt2 prebuilt for all this... :roll:
fwiw, back when the halls were failing and i'd just rebuilt the motor, there was a terrible grinding every wheel rotation. i thought it was something inside and just had to get home but it was a sidecover screw carving a groove in the calipers:
Image

Hyena wrote:How would you say the new headlight compares to the P7 ?

i'll take a comparison photo soon.

MARZOCCHI 888 RC2X REBUILD
i coulda sent it in for $135+ shipping but instead bought the oil $20 and seals $10 and probably wasted 4 hours managing only to change the oil.. i discovered the o rings were faulty, a lot of oil was on the wrong side of one. i didn't have replacements and i'd had so many other problems that by the time i got to that point, i bailed on the seals.

i did some timelapses mostly of me researching the problem parts, some red nut that wouldn't come off, and starting with the wrong leg. :roll:

i did a lot of calculations to convert 220 CC into cups, tablespoons, teaspoons, since i didn't have the proper measuring beaker, so i noticed one side was off when the forks were back together. ah me. they feel good, much bouncier, but i think one good hit will send a gush of oil past the faulty o rings. and later they'll go to the shop. my biggest fear was that the internal screws would be set to certain positions that i'd never get again, and that fear seems largely justified now. but at least they're together and so far operational..

LACING HS3540 INTO 19" MOTORCYCLE WHEEL
wish i had better news on this operation... :roll:

i'd bought a sun lite truing stand for $60, which was great for starting the job. the legs were flexible enough that i could squeeze the large axle in.

unfortunately, i realized the wheel was so heavy and the stand so flimsy that it sagged and bent so truing was out of the question. i tried it vertical in the vice to remove the sag, but that didn't work. then i tried to mount the wheel in a donor mtb bike but the axle wouldn't seat because the rim contacted the vbrake bosses. so the only, and now logical choice was to mount the wheel in the DH comp. a timelapse:

i was alarmed to see how offset the wheel was! wasn't this the issue i was trying to avoid?? i'd aligned the spokes on both sides (instead of just the one as had previously been done):
Image
the rim was practically touching the drive side, so i had to tighten down the disc side spokes, until there was basically no thread, and the problem is obvious:
Image
i would dremel the ends if the wheel were near tight enough, but it's not.

so i began to think of adjusting the spokes to dish it appropriately. i did keep the older spokes, and whaddya know, they're much smaller!:
Image
i'd ordered them 130.5 and they're 135 so i think there was a mix up. so maybe i can just use the old spokes for the disk side... i have an email in to ilia for suggestions.
Last edited by GCinDC on Sat May 05, 2012 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby fizzit » Sat May 05, 2012 2:44 pm

That's cool, does your camera have the capability to zoom in while doing time lapses or did you do it in post production? Also, where did you find seals for $10? I can't find marzocchi seals for less than $20 online :?
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viewtopic.php?f=28&t=21953&start=180#p607020
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Sat May 05, 2012 5:53 pm

the seals were $27 shipped. i shouldn't have looked. amazon is pretty good on returns if i pay shipping so maybe that's worth it.
fizzit wrote:That's cool, does your camera have the capability to zoom in while doing time lapses or did you do it in post production?

yeah i wish. the gopro took ~9000 photos during several takes but picasa won't build timelapses of more than 4000 photos, and it crashed about 10 times. my process has been:

create timelapse movie (1 min total cooking time)
- plug in gopro SD card
- launch picasa, import all photos from card
- select all, click movie icon, select timelapse/frame rate, click create
- wait (~1 hr for 4000 photos), so when it crashes, it's a bummer
(i tried gopro cineform today for the first time, which is free, but it crashed on 1000 photos. ;-( lotta great features tho
post production (15 min cook time):
- open imovie, import timelapse movie
- select and move interesting clips to timeline
- crop/ken burns (the zooming part), edit individual clips
- one click produce/post youtube
youtube (3 min cook time):
- edit settings
- click enhance, audio & select a song that's not too obnoxious or gay (often the biggest challenge)
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby full-throttle » Sat May 05, 2012 8:02 pm

Looks like you've been busy :lol: Like the time lapses - they look so much better with pan and zoom 8)

With changing the oil - sometimes its easier to go by oil level rather than oil volume. In the past Marzocchi used to give the oil level figures then changed to volume. Now they just give a number (220 for 888) go figure :roll: Luckily the function of the internals of their forks is very tolerant to the changes in oil height. So as long as the forks don't hydro lock (too much oil) or aerate (too little) it's fine.

Glad you found the video somewhat instructional :lol: Yeah, the stand is flimsy. I had to spin the HS very carefully. ChainReaction sells a stand that looks a bit sturdier http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=32193
Ideal for motorcycle wheels
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Re: GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Postby GCinDC » Sat May 05, 2012 8:18 pm

full-throttle wrote:Glad you found the video somewhat instructional :lol:

haha, you noticed! :mrgreen:

what was never clear to me was if the key spoke should go on the drive side or disk side. i tried what looked like your way, then what looked like my other xlyte's way, but the MC wheel holes are very directional and it would have been silly to completely ignore that, so i ended up doing it what looked like opposite my other bikes and everything. it was a bit maddening at first, but once i got the pattern, i was set. and now that i check it out, the key trailing spoke goes to the drive side, as it apparently should.. :lol:
Image
i figured you just did it upside down cause you're in the southern hemisphere. :lol: or maybe i started w/ my wheel backwards..

anyway, i just measured between the chainstays and the motor flange and there's 16mm diff. (52mm from disk side and 36mm from drive side.) perhaps on a taller rim, the difference evens out?

i've now got to decide if i should try to relace and insert all the spokes from the drive side, so they come out the disk side... the only relevant post i can find is from 2010: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=20057#p301047

help! anyone done this? the 130mm spokes are in good shape, so i can try just relacing the wheel with those only on the disk side. would that be better? :?:
Youtube channel, 2011 Highlights vid. Ebike Nerdcast.
Giant DH Comp: 20s lipo (10Ah), hs3540, 72V 45A 12FET, 900W BMSBattery charger.
GT I-Drive, 20s lipo, 9C, 72V 45A 12FET.
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