Adam's Norco A-Line 2009 with HS3540

[crusoe]

For rubbing disk try this:

First, take out your pads and reseat the pistons with a box wrench (make sure not to put any pressure on the little metal mounting posts for the pads). Your pistons should be flush with the body of the caliper. After this is done and if it doesn't get rid of rubbing, try below instructions:

1. loosen caliper mounting bolts so the caliper can wiggle (around 2-3mm)
2. squeeze the rear brake lever and put an elastic band around the lever so it stays engaged
3. tighten your rear caliper bolts, but do quarter turns on each bolt and alternate between tightening the top 1/4 turn, then the bottom 1/4 turn.
4. take off the elastic and release the brake
5. spin the rear tire and check for rub
6. if there is still rub, loosen the top or the bottom caliper mounting 1/4 turn, repeat process from steps 2-5.
7. repeat above until you've got no rub

You'll notice that there is some play on the mounting arms for the calipers and this method attempts to zero out the play and center the caliper over the disk. Let me know how it goes!

[adam333]

Thanks for the tips Crusoe,

The procedure to center the caliper work great.

I cleaned both the disc and the pads with isopropanol and I get a few good brake without noise. But then the noise come back while braking. I noticed the rear disk is rapidly covered with black dust while the front one ( shimano original disk ) is always clean.

My guess is that wavy form disk I bought is degrading the pads quickly.

[crusoe]

Disc brakes will always make some noise/squeeks when you brake with them.

You can "true" your disk by literally grabbing a pair of pliers and bending the disc into shape. Just spin the rear wheel and look for the waves and then bend away! The discs are quite flexible - but don't go overboard.

[BATFINK]

Love your build, if you won't to carry some things and don't have space or eyelets for a regular rack then try using one of these freeload racks. They can he mounted very easy on your rear swing arm and can support around 50lbs of weight so would solve all ur carrying problems. http://www.freeload.co.nz/pages/9/products

Sent using Endless-Sphere Mobile app

[adam333]

Thanks Batfink,

Nice find

[crusoe]

Hey adam, just re-read your thread again. After having finally finished my bike days ago, I too am noticing black residue all over my rear disk (none on front). Maybe time for a new set of pads?

[adam333]

Hey adam, just re-read your thread again. After having finally finished my bike days ago, I too am noticing black residue all over my rear disk (none on front). Maybe time for a new set of pads?

I solved my problem. I bought a Shimano 8" disc that dont have those "fancy wave" on the outer diameter. And used a new pad at the rear. Since then, the disc stay clean and no more noise.

[adam333]

some update on this project...

I have updated the page 1 with all the data I collected so far as well as all the meaningful pictures.

After 1000km done on the bike, I changed the tire and took a few shot at the dropout to make sure it was not cracked or geting damaged:
So far so good, no sign of fatigue.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/dropout%20after%201000km.JPG


I also changed my led lamp holder for a taller version. This way, they now clear the box. Those magic-shine leds are very bright on the max intensity setting.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/new%20led%20holder%201.JPG


The mud is an issue on a DH bike, mainly if you want to reach your workplace and stay clean.
I made an adapter in delrin that fit the pocket in the rear frame and added a fender that help at least to keep the rear chuck and my pants clean:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/rear%20mudguard%201.JPG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/rear%20mudguard%202.JPG


Since the Seahorse box is waterproof and there is limited air flow inside, I was worried about the battery temperature inside the box.
I designed and added a holder + temperature sensor to monitor it while running. ( temperature sensor is inside, near the top of the box )
After several rides under hot and sunny days, the internal temperature never reached 40 deg C.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/tmp%20holder%201.JPG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/tmp%20holder%202.JPG


I also adapted the GPS holder on top of the box:
Bolted from inside the box, (sorry about the muddy picture )
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/GPS%20holder.JPG


Temp sensor + GPS in place:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/tmp%20holder%20with%20gps.JPG


I bought a 5 led rear reflector that have a vibration sensor + a light sensor.
This one will activate by himself when its dark outside and stop after 4 min of "no vibration" activity.
Since no useful bracket came with it, I decided to make a decent one custom fit to my rear fender:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/rear%20lamp%201.JPG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/rear%20lamp%202.JPG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/rear%20lamp%204.JPG


Here is the current look after those modifications:
So far, I did 1800 km ( 1125 miles ) on this build, and the average charging cost is 0.20$ / 100km ( 60 miles )
I really enjoy this bike.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/78649823/E-bike/Aline/full%20aline%20bike%201.JPG

[crusoe]

Looks great! Can you post the URL to your photos? They tend to get cut off if you use [img] code

[fractal]

Nice!!! I love it!!! great work Adam!!!

[adam333]

Looks great! Can you post the URL to your photos? They tend to get cut off if you use [img] code

Thanks Fractal and Crusoe.

I edited the above post and added the url link.

[oatnet]

Great build Adam, I am glad it is working out for you. You do great work with connectors etc - you have me thinking about getting a micro mill so I can make plastic parts too!

-JD

[beast775]

excellent build!

[etard]

Well Done Adam! I think others would agree with me...

http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2012/06/29/ ... ric-power/

[Garrick_s]

Agreed, very nice indeed.

[adam333]

Thanks for the good words guys.

4800 km done so far on this bike this summer and I never had any serious issues.

I didnt work much on the bike lately, but my crusade against mud is still ongoing...

I scanned the front fork on the 3 D scanner as well as the "THE mudguard" I bought from Ebay.

I then modelised a strong ABS adaptor plate to secure the fender in place.

With this methode, the fit between pieces is perfect and there is no movement at all.









My next chalenge is to increase the length of the rear fender

[shorza]

Great work. I'm sure the 3D scanner really helps.

I have a very similar setup as yours but with 18 hardcase packs in my pelican (24s 3p).
My rear wheel seems to 'bounce' around some corners and i fear it's because of the amount of weight on the front. Are you getting anything like that?

[oatnet]

My rear wheel seems to 'bounce' around some corners and i fear it's because of the amount of weight on the front. Are you getting anything like that?

I haven't experienced this phenomenon on any of my front-pack builds, but I have experienced bounciness when the rear-shock rebound was cranked up too high, and running a heavy hubbie.

Adam, you keep coming up with some trick kit, very nice. What does your 3d scanner look like, is it a home-brew David-laserscanner? Are you using makerbot, or milling these parts?

-JD

[shorza]

Come to think of it, I reckon that's exactly what it is. Thank you.

[adam333]

My rear wheel seems to 'bounce' around some corners and i fear it's because of the amount of weight on the front. Are you getting anything like that?

No bouncing at all, I adjusted the rebound as describe in the manual owner and even with the extra 55 pounds, it is prety stable.

When I lift the bike with one hand, the center of mass is around the yellow arrow, what about yours?

What does your 3d scanner look like, is it a home-brew David-laserscanner? Are you using makerbot, or milling these parts?

I have access to a brand new 3 D scaner Romer Arm at work (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DikzV9toO28). I could have made those pieces on the CNC at home, but this time, I went with the easy solution and printed em on the 3D printer at work.

[shorza]

My rear wheel seems to 'bounce' around some corners and i fear it's because of the amount of weight on the front. Are you getting anything like that?

No bouncing at all, I adjusted the rebound as describe in the manual owner and even with the extra 55 pounds, it is prety stable.

When I lift the bike with one hand, the center of mass is around the yellow arrow, what about yours?

I checked mine today and it's pretty much the same as where yours is.
I haven't weighed my battery pack, i think it would be heavier than yours, but I also have the heavier H4060 motor to counter balance.

I should really start a build thread soon.

[cwah]

Thanks for the good words guys.

4800 km done so far on this bike this summer and I never had any serious issues.

I didnt work much on the bike lately, but my crusade against mud is still ongoing...

I scanned the front fork on the 3 D scanner as well as the "THE mudguard" I bought from Ebay.

I then modelised a strong ABS adaptor plate to secure the fender in place.

With this methode, the fit between pieces is perfect and there is no movement at all.









My next chalenge is to increase the length of the rear fender

So niiiiice!!

I want a 3D scanner too. Where can I get one at a good price?

I'm planning to get a CNC router in order to get my own parts:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-CNC-3040Z ... 956wt_1021

If I also have a 3D scanner I will try to copy you

[oatnet]

So niiiiice!!

I want a 3D scanner too. Where can I get one at a good price?

I'm planning to get a CNC router in order to get my own parts:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-CNC-3040Z ... 956wt_1021

If I also have a 3D scanner I will try to copy you

What do you intend to make parts out of? Those cheepo cnc's are OK on plastic/wood/PCB etc, but don't have the power or rigidity to do a good job on metal.

For 3d imaging, I've been pondering building a 3d David LaserScanner setup myself:
http://www.david-laserscanner.com/

-JD

[cwah]

I'm planning to do bike part on it such as battery case, clamp, holders, trailer part...

But I'll mill aluminium only as still would put the machine on its knee.

Here's a video of the tool machining aluminium:


So it can still do (soft) metal such as aluminium.


And torque arm can even be made of aluminium so it seems to be a good tool!

[sn0wchyld]

I'm planning to do bike part on it such as battery case, clamp, holders, trailer part...

But I'll mill aluminium only as still would put the machine on its knee.

Here's a video of the tool machining aluminium:


So it can still do (soft) metal such as aluminium.


And torque arm can even be made of aluminium so it seems to be a good tool!

be aware, thats the much larger 6040 machine. the 3020 will still manage the softer aluminum alloys, but at MUCH lower speeds/depths. cutting something the size of a dropout torque arm would take many hours. I've seen a couple of reviews too which state that you don't get the entire 30X20cm's, more like 27 by 16 ish. I'm not saying don't get one, I'm tempted myself... just be aware, they're cheap for a reason.